What's Wrong With Us?

Well, sniff, sniff, I suppose this is the end of May as we knew it.  WOW,  What a freaking MONTH.  My wife just got back from Greece today, which makes me pretty much the happiest man alive.  But here in BC, that was without a doubt the best May I’ve ever seen in Squamish since arriving here 12 years ago.  Simply OUT-standing.  Climbing (or some form of it) almost everyday, perfect temps, few crowds and lots of virgin rocks.  It can’t get much better.

Unfortunately, (for those of you that don’t know),  June typically gets a bit more rain than April and May, and a bit more cloud cover.  Although, there are still many incredible days to be had in the near future, they just aren’t as consistent until July hits.  Riveting stuff, I know.

So, what’s new anyway?  Well, like I mentioned before, there’s a slick new guidebook on the scene, from Quickdraw Publications, it’s called Squamish Select.  And as the name suggests, it’s not a comprehensive collection like the Climbers Guide to Squamish, but it will cover the ‘best of the best’ routes in the Sea to Sky corridor.   The author, Marc Bourdon, has been a guide and a passionate climber living in Squamish for over 2o years, he has intimate knowledge of the area and a meticulous guidebook style.  When I flip through his old select (which is very well organized as you can imagine) there are still so many routes I’ve never done, it’s both insane and embarrassing.  I’m almost afraid to open to new one now, as I’ll be even that much more behind.  I LOVE this place.  Have I ever said that before?  Sport, bouldering, trad, multipitch, it’s growing at a rate that punishes anywhere else I’ve seen in North America.   Marc certainly had his hands full trying to decide what the best of the best really are, especially in such a vast climbing destination, not to mention trying to climb them, map them, organize them, photograph them, and write a book about them.  Mad Props.  Buy it now on his website and not only will you get a discount on shipping, but you’ll be the first ones drooling over the freshy pics, like this one of honorary local Jesse Huey on ‘Warriors of the Wasteland’ 5.12b.  And maybe I’ll get a discount on my copy for posting this link,  ha ha.

Like I said, it’s new routing gold for those unafraid of hard work.  People are getting dirty all over this place.  Here’s a great pic of T-Mac after a day of scrubbing a new line.  You just can’t buy that kind of fulfillment, you gotta earn it.  What’s wrong with us anyway?  I have a route to the right, (actually, I have two to the right),  both pretty hard and one to the left, another hard one, I hope Adam Ondra comes here soon so I don’t have to break my fingers trying to climb them all.  For those on the more moderate scale,  check out the wicked start into the Diedre, it’s called Rambles, 5.8, 2 pitches.  Click on this link for more info….

And a picture of a steep rock somewhere in space.


  • jf

    Sonnie, is there still a lot of bouldering being developed as well? I know a bit south in Leavenworth, they have more granite than they know what to do with. I imagine it’s a similar scenario up there.