Good News and Bad

Well, the good news for anyone in BC, is that the weather has been UN-freaking BELIEVABLE lately,  going on 10 days straight of blissful blissyness.

I’ve been climbing up at a newish cliff above Lakeside in the Woods at Murrin Park lately,  the climbing is truly exceptional up there.   Last night I managed to send a short term project I called ‘Nothing in Moderation’.  I think it goes at 5.13c, give or take a little.  Being less then vertical, it climbs like a hard slab, it’s got 6 bolts and it’s simply amazing.  Again, the Five Ten Blanco’s came through for me,  even though they were an old, beat up pair from my Yosemite trip, they still edged like a super champ.  I’ll try and post a photo soon for those interested in trying it. I look forward to seeing some other people on it, it’s very compact rock.  As always, there’s a slew of sickly strong climbers in Squamish right now and lots of great things are going down.  It’s a productive time.  There’s a new guidebook coming out this spring, and yet, it’s already outdated.  It’s like a gold rush up here.  New route gold.

Check out this clip of Ben Harnden sending Gunslinger, 5.13d R, at Murrin Park.  It’s a super great climb.  My only suggestion for the flick is to have done a tiny, little, smidge of editing, as smooth and as good looking as Ben is, I don’t really feel the need to watch him rest for 2 minutes between cruxes.  Just saying.  Also I’m sensing a bit of JSmith flare in the music selection.  Nice work gents, looking fit as ever Ben.  I hope they don’t mind me sharing this, I know how they feel about media, but since this was already posted on facebook, I feel like it’s probably okay.

The bad news is that I seem to have developed a case of Petallar Tendonitis.  I could barely sleep last night the pain was so acute.  Today, I can barely walk.  I am pretty certain it’s from hiking up steep, dirty, slippery, hills with a heavy backpack in my sandals.

NOTE:  If you think you are bad ass (but aren’t), and you love flip-flops, do yourself a favor and put on socks and real hiking shoes from time to time or you will suffer eventually from sever inflammation and discomfort.  Now, I can’t even hike up the stairs to my own house, let alone my new projects on the prow wall.  Super frustrating.  It came on pretty suddenly too.  Actually that’s a lie,  I’ve been ignoring it for a week because it wasn’t so painful I couldn’t hike, or climb or whatever, and then BAM, it just blew up overnight.  Here’s a link to some remedies if anyone is suffering from the same temporary condition….

  • NOOOOO!!! Is it even worth going to the crag if you can’t wear flip flops????

  • Sonnie

    You pose a mighty difficult question there Narc. The answer to which I find, changes over time:) My current (32yr old) response to this, is wear good shoes, and bring your flip flops in your backpack so when you get there an hour later, you may resume lounging as though you never left the parking lot.

  • Megs


  • carlos

    Get better Sonnie!!!, do just as you told me, back off and take some rest, you know you wanna climb until you die so be smart. I’m hoping to climb with you someday, so stay strong and rest 🙂

    Take care my man

  • cool vid, Bens one of the best climbers I’ve seen along with the likes of my bud erik zschiesche!! check out eriks site for some cool art!