Any Beta?

Calling all Squamish experts.
I’m wondering if anyone knows anything about the anchor placed above two alluring wide crack systems low down on the Prow Wall?  They look pretty steep, and are located to the right of Colin Moorhead’s Gravity Bong. One of them is part of a massive flake (mostly detached) with a precarious block perched on top. While I was up there in the summer of 2010 I found an old anchor, but can’t seem to locate anyone who knows anything about where it came from. I heard a rumor that John Furneaux was up there, but in an email he confessed he’s only ever looked at them, but never climbed them.I climbed the right side of it at 5.10a that summer, but I accessed it from rappelling down from the gully between the first and second summits, a fun adventure on it’s own. But getting to the other side of the pillar would likely involve hiking up from Gravity Bong. I’m just wondering what they are, if they’ve actually been climbed or not, and if they are as scary and intimidating as they look. I feel like one day the whole thing just might topple over, but it would be fun to scramble up there before it does. See photo’s attached, thanks for any leads.  In the picture below, they are the two wide cracks in the very middle of the image, you can only see the upper quarter or third.

Below is the right side of the same formation.
Standing on top of the flake, (aka Pillar of Darkness)
  • Colin

    Hi Sonnie, Tony Richardson is semi-actively working on the main offwidth having done a fair bit off prepping of the approach pitches….it looks sick!

  • Tony RIchardson

    Hey Sonnie
    I’ve put a couple days in on the left hand one, mostly in the appoach pitch from GB. The anchors and the bolt at the top were there and I have no idea who put them in. It’s concivable that some one has sent the off-width with out having climbed the first pitch but I’ve not heard about it. I’ve been calling it the Fuck Off-width. I’ve still got dreams of sending it but havent yet, if you can wait til summer I’d be psyched to climb it with you, but I’m also in France so if you’re super keen then I reckon it’d go at a 5.11ish grade. Colin and I talked about it when we were working on GB, I agreed to clean the approach pitch and would do the left side, he would get the giant flake right side. But that was just talk. The first photos, showing the left side must be old cause the trees at the top werent there when I started looking at it.
    Aside from that hows things? You back in Squamdale?

  • mike

    kind of hard to believe that thing is still standing! wouldn’t you be concerned it might expand if you fell on your pro?

  • Sonnie


    NICE ONE Mr.Touch. How’s France? I am back in Squamish now,(3 weeks) stoked to be HOME, but the skies have yet to clear for very long. I would be stoked to get up there with you, that stuff is always WAY more fun to do with a partner who’s up for it, and you my friend, are always up for it. When are you home anyway? Thanks for filling me in with the details. Lets drag Colin out there too and bring that zone to life. Cheers man.