A few months ago…

Rock and Ice published an article (issue #199) that I wrote on climbing a big wall with Tommy Caldwell in the Canadian Rockies.  We established a new route on Mount Louis, going directly up the Diamond Face and intersecting a route my friend Eric Dumerac once tried.  All in all – it’s a 5 star, 15 pitch climb, with nearly 8 low angle scrambling gear pitches and 7 bolted face pitches.  We bolted 4 of the 7 pitches on the headwall (3 already established by Eric) and then climbed the route ground up in a push in August.  As happy as we were to finish the climb and open it up to the public, I think the best part of the whole experience was the unknown.  We never knew if (or when) the holds might run out and it would be too hard to free climb.  Below is a clip I made for BD about the experience.  Hope you enjoy it – and have yourselves an AWESOME DAY!  Peace.

BD athletes Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell free climb first ascent of The Shinning (IV 5.13+) in the Canadian Rockies from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

  • grant

    One of the best vids I’ve seen in a while. Two dudes crushing hard routes in a awesome setting while not taking it to serious. To many climbing videos try to hard to make the subjects bad asses while this almost pokes fun at this game we call climbing. And yes it is a game. Bravo dude! Looks hard and gorgeous up there.

  • Scott

    Great video sonnie. Awesome to feel like I was right there on the wall with you.

  • Finally…
    Smooth and stylish ascent boys
    Were the moves on the crux nice?
    I always wondered