Cement Truck!


To read about our skydiving mission, click here.

To read about our Prophet Mission, scroll down.

For anyone who follows this, here’s another very brief recap.  We just got down off the wall after spending 4 days up there getting worked by very hard, powerful and insecure climbing.  I will report more soon, but here’s the gist of it because my computer is going to die.  I accidentally sent the A1 Beauty pitch on Top rope on my first try since going back up, that was fun, Will made a HUGE link and we’re no longer scared of sending it.  We solved the Final Defence boulder problem on the last pitch (V8/5.13b R) and took that to the top of the wall.  Slept.  We rapped down and tried the Devils Dyno Pitch.  Failed.  Got really worked.  It’s very much a proper dyno.  I managed to solve a sequence down lower crimping on the footholds but it’s like a hard V10/11 sequence, not exactly recommended, and I’m not sure I can fully pull it off, but if I can, I will be thrilled,  they are some of the cooler moves I have ever done.  The next day, Will dug deeper than ever and after about 20 tries,  latched the dyno across.  It was amazing to see.  Perhaps I’ll try it again after all.   I feel he’ll be able to do it more consistently now that he’s familiar with it.  I may stick to my V10 bloc because I have faith I can send it that way.  After that there is another very hard move getting across the corner and onto the face,  a very wide stretch and no feet.  The feet we did have to use I broke off.  ARGH.  That’s the problem with the east side of El Cap, it’s friable.  It’s going to be much harder now.  Which I am not exactly excited about, ha ha ha, because to be frank, the last thing we need is “much” harder now 🙂  We did all the moves on the Guillotine pitch on our first try, which was nice, but we have not accounted for the 25 foot runouts, the terrifyingly loose flakes, the potential 60 foot falls or the pump in our arms.  But we remain confident.  We don’t want to go any lower than this on rappel, we’d like to try ground upping it for the first 7 pitches and top down on the upper 6 pitches.   In an ideal world.  GRIN.   But then again, you can’t climb the prophet if you’re broke or dead, so we shall see what happens next.  We feel like a we’ve been hit by a cement truck today.  What a climb.  What a battle.  What a position.  What an experience.  I originally only wanted to use this climb as a training route, to get into some kind of shape for my winter road trip, but now, as the ends comes near, I really, really want to finish it.  It’s quite amazing. And it’s so rewarding to try something so, so daunting.   Here’s the breakdown in case you missed it.  5.12bR, 5.12bR, 5.11dX, 5.13aR, 5.13bR, 5.13bR, 5.12bR, 5.13bR, 5.13cR, 5.12bR, 5.13dR, 5.12bR, 5.13bR.  Leo and Jason have left a mark with this one:)  Happy climbing!

Willy on the A1 Beauty Pitch.  The Best rock on the route by far, but not necessarily the best climbing, it’s all so good how does one choose?

Will again on the Final Defence heading across the slippery slabs.

  • Vikki

    Rooting for you two! Much love from rainy Vancouver. 🙂

  • Leo

    Good luck guys! It sucks up there in a storm! Glad you’re enjoying it as much a we did. Be safe not scared.