Well things are a changing around here.  Winter in Squamish is coming to an end, and temps are getting finger licking good.  Not only is the wetness of Nov/Dec/Jan behind us, but it’s starting to get dark much later as well, around 6/6:30pm.   Before we know it,  it’ll be full on bloom town springs ville.

Right now, we’re still getting out, but fewer days than last year, about once or twice per week.  This past Sunday was delicious.  The friction was so tack, everything felt three grades easier.  I took full advantage of this and climbed a beautiful thin crack called “King of Rock” 5.12c/d.  Then I pulled out the pads and climbed it again without the rope.  Then, after we cleaned up and everyone left, I went back and did it again.  Nothing is better than climbing steep quality rock cordless and having it feel easy.  I sometimes wish I had the Honnold gene, I’d for sure do it more often, on harder and longer routes, because I know how beautiful that must feel.  But I still enjoy my comfort zone, and those moments I have on my own projects are memorable and delightful.  My friend Kelly took some pictures from the other day.  Just for fun.  I wore my new Five Ten Arrowheads on the climb and they worked perfectly.  They have quickly become my all around favorite shoe.

Climbing on a TR, learning the moves.  The crack has been pinned out years ago, but many of the climbable features if not all, are not pin scars.  The wet streak on the left made things more interesting, but not impossible.

4 feet up, first crux.

The old’ hand foot match.

my 6 foot 4 inch friend Kevin stepping in,  just in case I botch the last move, which is the hardest of them all.

And another big change is that I bought a new/old van.  Something I am both happy and terrified about.  A 2008 FORD E-250, it had 19k miles on it,  I could not resist.  I almost feel like myself again, once I camperize the inside to feel homey, until then, it’s just a big empty steel box.  But, oh the possibilities…the road is calling…

  • Eric

    Good job on the route and good luck with the camperizing! I did a number on my delica, and a good camperized van gets me psyched … and gets me thinkin about being on the road again …

  • Russian

    Oh my Sonnie, that big honkin piece of enviro dinosaur doesn’t really jive with the Patagonia save the planet ethos..Just something about those newer Ford front ends that says F-U nature. And here I am feeling guilty driving my 20 year old Pathfinder thinking how much I want a Prius. But I guess its pretty hard to camperize a Prius…Anyways to each his own and enjoy your new ride 🙂

  • luke

    i love this style. so much fun!

  • I just came to the new site for the first time… love the shield in the upper left! “Lydia Love Slave” Haha!

  • Sonnie

    Russia, Yah, I know it ain’t a Prius, trust me I am very, very aware of that. And though I think the front end is a bit aggressive in terms of appearance, it’s the same engine and body they’ve been using for 20 years, so no F-U’s happening here. While you can NOT camperize a Prius, you can’t LIVE in one either. This van is for more than just roadtrips, Lydia and I plan to downsize and simplify our lives and live in it. One day, it will be our home and our vehicle, but mostly our home. We will have our bikes strapped to the back, so once we arrive to where we are going, we are free to roam. Kris, happy to please:) Eric, is your delica veggie oil?

  • Andy

    Sonnie, nice work on the route. I hope you get a lot out of this new van seeing as your old one didn’t stand up to the test of time. RIP Mazda (or was it a Toyota?) Is King of Rock at the Smoke Bluffs near a 5.11a called Kangaroo Corner or something? If so, I’ve eyeballed King of Rock thinking it’d be quite impressive to climb. Props my friend.

  • nice highball!

  • joel

    Good job with the van Sonnie! That one is the one!Post some pic once you pimp it!

  • Nigel

    I remember aiding that line a few years back on a rainy day, and only now do I learn what it’s called. It was thin up top for sure. Thinner than the thin down below, anyways.

    Nice work!

  • Jack

    Sonnie, what are your favorite shoes for crack climbing?

  • Christian

    Where are ya Sonnie? Missing your posts!