A Real Game Changer

Hmmmm, so, I have some bad news and some good news:)  This evening – Ambrosia broke.  Ooops. Now it might not be as bad as one might think.  But my heart did sink a little bit.  The good news is that, that particular hold, won’t break any more.   It’s funny,  Charlie Barrett and I were just discussing yesterday how “although the holds are small, sharp and for the most part quite terrible, at least the feet are good”.  Until today.

Minutes before the event – Will’s left foot is standing on the best hold on the wall.

Ben Ditto, (total bone crusher and photographer extraordinaire) wanted to sample the opening boulder problem with Will and Douglas tonight.  They were having quite the session and really making great progress while Enzo and I watched.  Will was stoked, he was starting to “feel” the drive by move into the side-pull.  The temps were getting colder by the minute, energy was high.  Burn after burn, rough skin dug into perfectly sharp crimps before hitting the pad with a thump and a high five.  Ben stepped up, dropped in the heel and CRACK.  He hit the pad on his ass,  no high five.  We were in shock, and suddenly Enzo burst out laughing, he ran up to the wall and picked up some of what was once the only good foothold for 25 feet.   We all burst into laughter at the unexpected nature of it all.  But really, does a broken hold at the Buttermilks surprise anybody anymore?

Ben Ditto, all smiles.  It was going to break anyway, it was only a matter of time.

You can see the damage here.  Ben is holding perhaps half of the foot hold.   When you watch video of Kevin doing the moves, you’ll see him kick over to it.  You need it for about 5 crux moves in all.   There’s no question the moves still go, but now every move is going to be significantly harder.  We shall see what tomorrow brings.  I’m keen to dig in.

  • hey sonnie!
    oh snap…dude…so much for the vow of secrecy…you wiki-leaked the crucial and damning evidence to the world!
    oh well.
    good job on evilution dude.

  • megan

    i love reading your blog.

    awesome and inspiring. thank you <3