Story Telling From the East Side.

First of all, I want to thank everyone who keeps me going on this blog archive.  When I start to get e-mails from people asking me for an update, I know I’m doing something okay, so I appreciate that.  Keeps me on my toes.  And pictures are stories too.  Like this one below, today we woke up to ice covering our soccer mom mini-Vans, inside and out.

So far, I have tried Ambrosia twice, each time, a proper session, like rapping down and repeating the upper moves over and over again.  I must admit, I’m not at all happy about the quality of the rock.  I’ve seen much more solid holds break in Bishop, and these ones are not even suspect, it’s a fact that they will break, but when, is impossible to say, perhaps today, or 10 years from now.  But the fact remains, there are at least two MAJOR holds that will break.  Like Will Stanhope says, sometimes you just gotta “roll the dice”.

No matter what John “the Verm” Sherman tries to tell you, you are not gay for using crash pads:)  A $300 Mondo is better than two artificial hips.

I’m mega impressed with Kevin, Alex and Isaac, for climbing this thing.  It’s definitely one of the biggest, baddest ass high ball lines in North America,  if not the world.  I’m especially impressed with Kevin for investing so much time and capturing it all on video for us, it’s super inspiring, and that top is not as easy as he makes it look.  It’s like a V11 to a shake, straight into a V7/8 with a NO FALL landing.  I can do everything, I’m just not sure I want to yet.

Yesterday I fell off Evilution,V11, about the same move as Enzo Nahumury is here above.  He sent on his third attempt on this day.  Let out a good scream when he slabbed out the ending.   It was very inspiring as well, to see somebody just going for it with everything they have.  Nothing else matters.

That night Will tried Evilution as well, he was about 50/50 on the first move (aren’t we all) and he eventually climbed up to the lip but numbed out and jumped off.  I nearly forgot how much fun bouldering is.   I can’t seem to find a good reason why I don’t do it very often, I’m back in love with the blocks.

And to warm up,  straight to the hot springs.  life ain’t so bad.  Is it?  Just don’t get those fingers wet you fool.

DOH!   Your body loves you now, but your tips are going to hate you tomorrow.

All good rest days begin with a good cafe.

Powerhouse boulderer on the left, Brian Capps.

A long drive down to Lone Pine to see Mount Whitney and watch the sun set.  The East side offers some of the most spectacular mountains anywhere in the world.  A precious place.

Living the dream!

  • micah

    Wow, it can’t be?? The last picture, the guy down and right with the smile, is that, DOUGLAS?!!
    This guy will be a legend someday, trust me…
    So far I’ve run into him in Squamish, Leavenworth, and lastly Bishop. I sure hope I can get to Hueco in January so I can run into him for a fourth time!!

  • Lucas

    Love it.

  • Nice RV!

  • Charlie

    I need to live vicariously through you as I am stuck at my desk working the 9 to 5 gig (usually longer). I can’t complain too much as I spent 10 days on the island of Kalymnos in September – very nice place to climb.

    Keep up your posts – they feed our souls!

  • Scott

    FUN HOG!!!

  • Jay

    inspiring as usual sonnie. Keep up the good work

  • Jacky

    Sweet post! Trying to boulder more myself & I’m feeling inspired now, so please, keep it up!

  • brody

    sonny– your blog got me through the summer working as a belay bitch and not having time or desire to climb most of the time. man i miss the east side….

  • Apes

    “all’s ya gotta do is roll the dice”

  • KK

    Doug!! send Mandala for me!!! and where’s my crashpad!! and tent!! and sleeping bag!!!

  • Juliana

    baaahahahaaaa! to KK’s comment, and Hi Douglas! Thanks for the photos and the words Sonnie, it is really inspiring to see you guys rocking it out. Have a good Christmas!

  • Crotalus (Genus of Rattlesnakes)

    I hate to disappoint you, but your “Mt Whitney” pic is actually Lone Pine Peak, a 12880 ft. mountain on the Eastern Sierra wall. The actual Mt. Whitney, which is back aways from the Eastern Sierra wall, is just north of this mountain.