Rain! Argh!

I love the rain, I do, I swear.  I love the sun more of course,  I rarely bitch about too many sunny days in a row, who would?  It’s no wonder California has 39 million, 961 thousand and 664 legal citizens,  while the entire country of Canada is struggling to hit 34 million.  But that’s irrelevant right now, what is relevant, is the fact that it’s SLASHING rain here in Montreal at this very minute.  So I brew tea, stretch, drink coffee, make friends on facebook, think about playing chess but never do, write and watch climbing movies.  This reminds me of Scotland.  ha ha ha.  But I am appreciative of Pee Wee and his wonderful girlfriend Nadine for their hospitality, their home is warm, dry and beautiful, much better than sitting in a wet tent somewhere in the dark.

Okay, to re-cap, we are here to climb at Val David.  I haven’t climbed Quebec rock since about 2001 when I came here to boulder, which was very fun.  The rock is great, the town is quaint, but I didn’t realize at the time, that there was such an amazing collection of hard trad routes here as well.  Sort of looks like Bohuslän in Sweden.  The prize line is called La Zebree, but it has a reputation of gushing water.  It seems like every drop of moisture from the area joins forces and deposits itself out of the rock through this incredible splitter crack.  Thus creating the stripes.  My heart sank when I saw that it was dripping wet.   It’s like having the keys to a sexy new ferrari in your hand, a wide open road, and no gas.  Almost painful.  So, we tried an open project instead, a desperate roof that Pee Wee left behind four years ago.  I got on it once, figured out all the moves, and realized it would go.  Hard, but very possible.  Then Pee Wee tried it, did nearly the same thing, but soon large drops of water met him at the lip.  Our day was done.

Hopefully, we can go back, but after today’s downpour, I’m not so sure about our chances.  I have my fingers tightly crossed.  I’ll tape them together that way tonight and sleep on it.  Please please please.  I wanna climb some Quebec rock.   Until then, I’ll leave you with some point and shoot pictures I took form the Nor’Easter event this weekend,  don’t get excited, I didn’t pull out my Canon that often, but here’s what I got.

Joe Kinder can climb 5.14, and paint a mural like it’s nobody’s business.

Ronnie Jenkins discovers my new Nano 9.2 (AKA: THE EXTENSION CORD) and falls in love.

A terrible photograph of Mega classic ‘Predator’, 5.13b.    It’s cool, because you have to climb a pitch to get to it, making it airy from the get go.

Ronnie doing “what not to do” when un-coiling the cord.  ha ha ha.  What’s 15 minutes in the grand scheme of things?

This is me clipping the chains at the end.  I blew the warm up onsight at the lip when my foot slipped, DOH!  What will 8a.com think of me?

The Black Diamond boys do not fuck around.  Russ Clune and crew making new friends at the Booth with grilled Moose Meat and beer.

Unfortunately, I think we drank all the Beer, and so lucky for me and Adam Chamberlain, the tent was open for business.

One of many KICK ASS bands, rocking hard into the night.  Thank you Pete, Jason and Eastern Mountain Sports.

Pee Wee Oullette, crushing Dark Star 5.13c – he fell, but he still crushed it.  And lets take a close look at those five ten shoes…

Ooooooo so sexy.  For more info on these new downturned baby’s, keep checking the fiveten website.  Seriously, these shoes have changed my climbing style over night.  I got a bit more lucky here, I managed a very scrappy 2 try ascent of Dark Star, and it’s technical extension which I forgot the name of, 5.13d,  both of which were of high grade free range organic quality.  VERY recommended.  Rumney is full on KICK ASS!  Dave Graham wasn’t shitting us when he raved about it back in tha day.  Too bad he already did everything,  he still loves it.


  • Pero

    “DOH! What will 8a.com think of me?”

    Wow! I just laughed my ass off 🙂
    btw. great blog!

  • caroline

    Funnily enough it is pouring rain in Scotland today!

  • Rajiv

    Sick ascent of a technical, beta-intensive route! It was great meeting you and Pee Wee and watching a bit of your projecting process. I’m inspired!

  • YO MAN!!! Great times. Great post and YEAH… we gotta do it again soon. Enjoyed the hell outta chilin with ya. Sincerely.

  • Marc S.


    dig the orange day-glow color on the line. Doesn’t that thing dirt up quickly? Vanity……..