A fortnight, my life in climbing!

Here’s some very recent images from my teeny tiny point and shoot camera, the Canon S90.  Somehow I’m able to snap more pics cause it fits in my pocket and thus, it’s more readily available in a pinch.  The pics never turn out as crisp as an SLR, but they’re not completely terrible either.  This is a snappy of NEW YORK CITY from a moving car (about two weeks ago), I just thought the graveyard was a crazy foreground to the massive buildings in the back.  Click to enlarge.

United States most populous city looks just like it does in the movies.  High energy, a constant stream of electricity.  With the Nor’Easter Crew, Joe Kind Kid and Abbey Smith, we drank and bar hoped until 5am after this shot was taken, it was fun times at the time, but the next morning it seemed like a terrible idea, but in the very end, I was glad we did it, how often do you get to party down in mighty Manhattan?

Below is the kitchen of climbing legend, Russ Clune.  That’s him there on the left, drinking a beer like any legend should.  He also hunts, and smokes, and is ripped like Bruce Lee.  His entire basement is a climbing wall, and since he’s lived in New Paltz for the last 30 years or so and climbed basically everything there is to do at the Gunks, he now spends more time on the woody, dreaming about Yosemite and European Limestone.  He cooked us the most incredible venison and we talked hangboards.  What a bro.  Outside his back door, is the sparkling white quartz conglomerate looming above, beckoning to be enjoyed.  If only it would stop raining.

Climbing.  Here’s the Sting, a 5.11d, that somebody told me was 5.11a?  what the hell?  It was more like 5.12a/b and like most classics in the Gunks, (if not all) it was entirely gear protected, a Russ Clune F.A.  Sooo goooolden.  Lots of big moves to delectable slots, and bomber cams.  It don’t get much better.

Upon getting home I saw these dirtbags drinking coffee in the Nesters Market parking lot, it’s good to be back.

On the same morning I began a great week of rock guiding.  We had a wonderful gentleman from Tokyo come visit us here and I had the honor and the pleasure of showing him around all the five star classic climbs of Squamish.  He left on Friday, so it’s been nice to get back on some of my own projects this weekend, and see where I’m at.  Below is TL on Exasperator 5.10a

And here again, on the Split Beaver 5.10g.  Smoke Bluffs.  I wanted him to learn his stacking technique, it took him some time, but he got it.

  • that crack picture (TL on Exasperator 5.10a) is excellent. is all that white chalk? it makes it stand out so well!


  • Rich

    It’s alright to sleep in parking lots in Squamish?

  • whats up with lama and gadd and red bolt crew in gods country sure rolos upset

  • You sure that’s coffee their drinking? haha

  • Andy

    I climbed Exasperator last week… top 5 climbs of my life! I wish it went on forever! Strong work to yr pal from Tokyo. Hope the rain has let up in Squamish.

  • @Jamesr0012: no, it’s not chalk. It’s just the colour of the granite, it’s more “scrubbed” around the crack.