Ya win sum, ya looz sum

The last thing I want is for this page to seem like some bland running commentary like tweeter –  Not that tweets don’t have their purpose, I believe they do, ‘specially for legitimate companies who promote cool events or special offers, but it’s just not for me on a personal level,  there’s already too much useless crap “so peep this yo, I just bought a sick pair of sweat pants at Target and now I’m going to eat a banana in the park”  sort of ‘who gives’ bullsheet.  Not exactly my style.  But, I do want to keep certain people updated on some stuff once in a while and here’s my report for Wed Feb 25th.

After a long day of travel on Tues, I’m back home in Squamish,  It’s beautiful (as always) but it is raining.  I didn’t send Stingray over the weekend.  Monday was my last chance to do anything at all and it was soooooo f’n coooooold out there, I went to the park with a climber from Riverside named Alan Moore, a motivated individual and strong as nails, but our efforts were so pathetic t’was hilarious.  The wind caught the rope at nearly 200 miles an hour and nearly pulled us off the wall every three seconds.   It was my third attempt on the route and I was hoping for a clean Top Rope.  No bueno.  The 50 degrees, combined with patagonia like gusts was too much to handle…

Total breakdown…

3 hours driving.  Big Bummer

1 hour of hiking with down jackets.  Kinda cool, but not really.

11 minutes of suffering on 5.11a climbing.  ha ha,  Not so cool, but not too shabby either, I’m glad we tried.

I hope to return, maybe this spring who knows, the climb is certainly worth the effort.  It’s unique, historical, beautiful and painful enough to be intriguing.  We’ll see, I still have nightmares about the numbness we experienced, but on the other hand, I do have a soft spot for ‘In and Out Burger’, AND I did experience my first Earth Quake, dope.  Hope everyone is doing amazing,  thanks for your support as always and wishing you a wonderful weekend wherever you is.

Sonnie.  P.S.  Peep these few pics of my man Kevin topropping like a champ on Stingray on Sat, you can see how beautiful it is, but it’s J-Tree so expect lots of choss and expect that you’re going to break shit (as we did) and things will keep getting harder and harder and harder.  I don’t even know why this climb was nailed in the first place to be honest, maybe so it could be freed but it’s so bomber, it’s like CLEAN ZERo.

The 5.6 approach slab pitch.

Five Ten’s own Kevin Newell after the initial 5.11 moves, but just before the steep crux.  Which you’ll never appreciate unless you get on it.

Pulling on pinky finger locks on the crux moves, NO FEET.

A better understanding of it’s position, but this was shot from far away with a 70-200 mm lens.  A 16-35 would demonstrate its surrounding beauty.

PIMP star Kev, showing us what it might look like to drive this  abandoned Gold Rush car down Santa Monica Boulevard.  Sweet rims brah.

  • 5.10 kevin

    haha…i’m SENDING! …the slab. oh man looking at those pics brings the pain back. i’m a wuss!! i sure hope oahu rocks your world, the MX trip kills it, and hope to climb some @ index this spring! had a ton of fun homie, come back anytime…i’ll even wake at 5:00 am to take you to the airport. hahaha.

  • Did you wear different shoes on each foot like Suzuki? If not – there’s your problem! 😛

  • AWBivins

    Sweet line. My friend and I were in J-Tree about this time last year and got shut down hard core by high winds. We even had a hard time bouldering because our crash pads were constantly being blown away. Hope you send in spring. It’s all about the process anyway.

  • damn that’s a proud looking line!

  • Paul Parker

    It wasn’t pinned for aid… but if it hadn’t been, I don’t think it would have gone free this millenium!

    Anyway it is a beautiful and striking line for sure, and it is very hard to appreciate how powerful and steep the moves are at the beginning unless you get under it. These pictures are the best I have seen of it so far, but they still don’t quite capture it.