I just threw this together on the weekend to show my mom what I did in Scotland way back when.  Otherwise I don’t think this footage would ever see the light of day.

DIREQIUEM 5.14 R from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

This is a clip of a climb I did in Scotland called Direquiem. May of 2008. This was shot during a warm, sunny spell that lasted the better part of our month long visit. It’s pretty funny to me, because I did this on (what I thought was) my last day at Dumbarton Rock, only because it was too hot to climb Rhapsody 5.14b/c.

This was a ‘one take’ shot, of the first free ascent, and although in my opinion it’s the finest bit of climbing on the headwall, it goes pretty much un-noticed due to it’s big brother to the left.

Direquiem was a stepping stone for me, and Cory and I extended our tickets for another week so I could finish what I started – the second free ascent of Rhapsody, and the first to place all gear on lead.

I’ll never forget the level of DRUNK we got while cruising the stone streets of Edinburgh after the redpoint. I have to thank Dave Brown and Paul Diffley for helping me achieve my dream climbs. Without their dedication, friendship and selflessness, we’d have nothing to show for our efforts. So thanks for everything, and thanks for the use of this footage. And thanks to Cory Richards for flying over to Scotland with me and sticking it out climbing some fun rocks, and thanks for the belay by my hero Steve McClure, he’s the ultimate climber, funny, relaxed, non competitive and stronger than wrought iron.

The highlight of this video (besides the music by the Recontours) and (the mullet hair cut) is the police sirens in the background while I’m cursing my way through the crux. ha. Dumbarton Police are hard working folk, never a dull moment to be had. Classic. Hope you enjoy it.

  • Hi Sonnie,

    The last few moves look really hard, especially when having in mind that the gear is far behind. Congratulations!

    Greetings from Austria, Andi

  • John

    Cool! Do you have a similar video for “Cop Out”? I don’t think the line of “Cop Out” is very well understood from the verbal description you gave at the time.

  • Nice video! It’s always odd to see a wall in the middle of a town like that.

  • jf

    Come on, you fucker! haha

  • Burtacus

    Sweet send and the on the fly removal of the t-shirt was classic. Agreed. The siren sound in the back ground gave this clip an unusual and somehow enjoyable aspect.

  • Fashionista

    I know this is about spelling and not fashion (nice pink shirt Sonnie) but the “aline” club of canada? Good one. damn those British and their mushy p’s.

  • Dino

    Just wondering, are the final moves the same as the ones on Rhapsody?
    Looks like an awesome route.

  • Sonnie

    glad y’all liked it. Dave and Paul did film “Cop Out” 5.13c, but it’s not a strong angle. It’s a very hard wall to film, as you probably know John, because it never quite shows the correct angle or line of holds. E11 was still some of the best footage I’ve seen of that wall. The police sirens are CLASSIC. The last moves are in fact the same as for Rhapsody. Sorry about the spelling fash, it was getting late, and I was getting tired, can’t a guy have a lazy finger from time to time? By the way, don’t ever google image search aline, naughty stuff.

  • Vlad

    Awesome video! Thanks Sonnie!

  • Was the music Dan Aurbach from the Black Keys? BK’s or solo project?

  • Stray Cat

    Real men wear pink. Thanks for bringing sexy back.

  • Knut

    Sonnie, taking the shirt off mid-climb? Who do you think you are – Sharma?