aka Project Wall

So it was another semi-beautiful weekend here in Squamish.  Semi beautiful means dry enough to enjoy, but not dry enough to climb on your projects.   Yet.  But we did have some fine dinner parties, gym sessions, and days of free soloing in the Bluffs on easy terrain.  So nice.  But the best thing to come from ‘decent’ February Weather are the scouting MISSIONS.  I’ve found some of my  all time favorite routes by taking days that don’t look so good on the forecast and turning them into some all time most memorable days on the rocks.  This weekend was no exception, we saw HEAPS of potential up on the walls.  I’ll show you through photo’s, because I get a lot of emails asking for more photo’s, so this one is for you all.  Hope you enjoy the play by play 20 page photo essay….

Will and Jeremy feel awkward having their pictures taken, so they snuggle towards each other and flip gang symbols to make it all okay.

The boys on a false summit.   Cloudy, but not rainy.   Check out the rainbow in the background, Will told me afterwards that he had an “overwhelming urge to hold hands with someone”.

Tea time, with a little splash of a Gentleman’s drink.  See the look in his eye?  That’s a gentleman.

Somehow my water bottles leaked and soaked the crotch of my pants.  Which didn’t really matter because rappeling wet ropes has the same effect, which we did soon after.   Wet crack is a fact of life in Squamish, BC, love it or hate it.

This is either the Super Stoked Eye?  The creepy eye?  The snake eye?  The evil eye?  or the Wise beyond my years eye?

Rappel Numbero Uno.

No matter how soggy it gets, Willy knows how to strike a pose.  Rappel Numbero Dos.

The mist swarms us on rappel number 3.

Tea anyone?  A gentlemans Tea?

“This way boys, down here.”

And away we go.


Jeremy coming over the edge, the block below him was Razor sharp, big white crystals, like shark teeth, pictures never do these things justice, but we core shot the rope over the edge here, and Jer did a beautiful knot bypass.  But we left the fixed cam because it was so traversing there was no way to keep going.    –  Warning:  Rapping with old battered wet ropes + grigri’s and sharp granite don’t mix too well.  The rock eventually looks like a Chia Pet covered in fuzz.  and the rope looks like angel hair spaghetti noodles.

Here is a great shot of my foot, but if you look closely you’ll see Will is way down there, after throwing our back up rope to the ground and passing the final anchor, rapping to the forest below with yet another core shot in the rope, AND with no idea whether or not the rope touches down.  It didn’t.   However,  we did find some trees and scamper down the branches and managed to rappel back to the car by headlamp.  It was a good lead by Willy, and we were all psyched to get down safely.  But it always seems crazy to me how quickly things can go from fun, to serious.  Even on terrain you feel so comfortable with.  Maybe comfort is the culprit?

Day two, ground up. We brought Tim Emmett along with us as he’s usually into this sort of thing.  Will was feeling a little hung-over in the morning, but shook it off nicely, as any hard man does.

The first decent glimpse of the wall above, it’s hard to see really, and impossible to capture.

Something about this mixed rack of abused gear gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling between my legs.  Weird.

Jer and Tim nearly ready to go.   Willy,  not so much.

Not a bad photograph Timmy,  not bad at all.  This is one of the few aid climbing experiences I’ve ever had.     Not quite like the A3+ pitch I did on Cap Trinite in Quebec, but a fine soaking wet adventure none-the-less.  I give full respect the A4 and A5 wonders of the world.

In this photo I’m about 30-40 feet off the ground and still only a fraction of my way up the wall.

This is Jeremy’s turn.  Again, the wall is about 75 meters tall, and Jeremy isn’t even half way.   So much fun.  And so much room for free climbing.  The Future is now.  Yes, I believe it is.   In the end, it took about 3 hours to aid the fucker, but it’s sicker than sick.  I mean take everything you know about sickness, (and I know some of you know a lot) and pile it all up on-top of itself,  then double that order and biggy size them both.  Boo-ya,  add a hot apple pie and bob is your uncle.  steep overhanging El Cap granite in Squamish, 20 minutes from the car, including the 5.7 slab solo.  Soooooooooooooooooooooooo gooood.

  • phillip

    “Jer and Tim nearly ready to go. Willy, not so much.” hahaha!!!

    thanks for the photos!

  • Fre

    I’m trying to figure out where exactly you guys are. It looks amazing!!! Surely somebody must’ve played where you guys are playing, despite the fact that most climbers don’t wander off the beaten track. Thanks for sharing, keep discovering, I find it even more exciting than the latest 5.15 conquest

  • Scott

    Sonnie, that’s epic. So cool to have these places so close to home. Blows my mind that unexplored pockets such as this still exist on the Chief after all these years..Looks to me like this is somewhere on the north walls. Keep at ‘er!

  • Adam

    Nice one! Let me know if you need a belay biaaatch!

  • Fashionista

    That looks like the Kashmir Wall, wouldn’t it be faster to just solo up Banana Peel and Boomstick than come in from the top?

  • Sonnie

    Ha ha, yah, we would have, had everything not been totally soaking wet. But who wants speed and predictability when you can have spice and adventure? Actually in hindsight it would have been better to just sit at home and wait for one extra day, (but we had the itch and it generated a lot of good laughs) we’ll be taking the ‘directissima’ from now on, now that we know what we’re dealing with.

  • I wanna climb there… meh.