They say it’s the best crag in Utah.  Salt Lake’s Momentum Climbing gym is now 3 years old and getting a wee bit outdated, but it’s still one of the best facilities I’ve seen in my lifetime, it’s right up there with the World Cup Wall in Imst, Austria, and Joe Rockheads in Toronto.  It’s no wonder all these kids are climbing V14 in two years.  Holy shit.  I think I’m going to quit rock climbing and move to the powder state to pull on painted plywood, at least that way I’d be stronger at least.  No think about it, seriously, changed alcohol laws, winter skiing, and 25 hours of plastic pulling a week.  Word.

When I left Vancouver this morning it had just started raining, but not Utah, cool and crip, fall sending temps at their finest.  I’m here to spend one week with the Amercian Alpine Club Climbers Meet in Indian Creek, Utah.  Representing Canada, YA!  And trying to slowly recover from my appendectomy which is healing much, much slower than I had hoped, probably because I litterally lack the ability to rest for more than two days, AND, I lack the ability to listen to anyones advice, even my doctors.  This last trait usually plays out for the worse in my case, but I have a thick skull and I’m willing to admit my flaws. ha ha ha.

Jeremy these photo’s are for you,  they have much better pics on the website, but I remember we were talking over wine the other night about this place and now I’m here, so hope you like.

Honestly, my camera lens is just not wide enough to capture half of it.

Cool slabby starts, gradual steepness.


The cracks.  Every size imaginable,  now, you have no reason to ever go to Zion, ever.  So don’t.

Two climbers lost on the big lead wall, so many grips, or as Yvon calls them, warts.

1/10th of the bouldering.  No reason to go to Joes Valley either.  Fuck it.

I’m pretty sure that guy on the left hand side of this picture was trying to pick up that girl in the black. Notice the way he’s leaning in closer off the edge of his seat, she’s got him right where she wants him.

Jen Olsen on the right side, warming up.

Jen, showing us good technique, on a climb that I have no interest in ever trying.  But I’m pretty sure this very overhanging offwidth has never actually been free climbed, so nobody really knows the beta, it might be feet first?   Am I warm?

Jen, about to embark on a first ever free solo attempt.  If only she could do the first move.

The View from the base.  Looking straight out at this gapping canyon.  I don’t even think I’d enjoy watching someone else climb it.  I’ve seen burly before, and this is in a whole ‘nother galaxy.   I gotta go, some guy from Latvia just showed up and everyone is trying to finish their medicine before finding some foam floor space to crash on.

  • elias

    OMFG!!!!!!!!!!! Those places look so rad!! it’s like a goddamn dream being there climbing, so much things to do, here in mexico city we have a couple of cool gyms to boulder and only one to do some routes(and they’re not that difficult), soooo…bottom line is: LUCKY BASTARDS!!!!!

  • If you are ever in The Netherlands then give me a shout. I can guide in the Dutch Mountains..

  • James H

    ran into Sonnie this weekend on the scarface wall… super chill and nice guy! we were racking up to do an IC classic, but heard him getting ready, and thought the only right thing to do wouild be to watch him hike an epic climb then get back to our day.

    funny side note… 5th to last picture i think where you say the guy is picking up on that girl… well that was my climbing partner who was with me this weekend in IC when we ran into ST, and the whole trip down all he could talk abotu was picking p this chick at the gym the night before… or at least trying to! he said she bit, but i highly doubt it.

    anyway… good write up sonnie…

  • kyle mcfarland

    Thanks for the kind words man, I’m glad that you enjoyed Momentum! Hope the stomach heals up well and for gods sake man just rest, no more of those V10 warm ups. Hope all is well and it was good getting to see you again!!


  • Charlie H