The BIG NEWS: While Southern California is getting slammed with some of the best surfing waves in ages, (click here)
…we’re getting slammed super hard by a three week heat wave. Sure it usually gets warm around here in the summer, we tend to get 35 degrees and maybe it’ll last a few days, but shit, a few weeks? What the hell is this? I’ll tell you what it is, it’s a mandatory rest period. We tried to climb several times, but I’ve lost all motivation. This morning we did two warm up pitches at 8 am and called off the show, t’was hideous, like soup. The days before last we went to our friends “secret” crag, and bolted a few new lines, cause when you can’t climb, well hell, you may as well haul a power drill around and pound in some hardware. The first one is BAD ASS, solid 5.14, I might need the granite technician Ron Kauk to come and show me some footwork, it’s going to be pimpin. The second one is also a 5.14 I think, but it’s hard to say, it’s so hot the holds feel 5 times smaller and it’s steeper than anything else at the cliff. After I broke my back bolting it, I didn’t have much juice left over for pulling the moves.
This is a special cliff, because it’s rare to find good quality granite so steep with real holds.
The third one bolted, I joined forces with Cory Richards, he some how volunteered himself for the cleaning part and it quickly became apparent that this was going to be one of the worlds WORST routes. The rock was soft, constantly exfoliating, crumbling like an oatmeal cookie. Here’s Cory, putting in the work.
Oh man, is that a crack to the left of that bolt? What losers. This post sucks, I’m going to the lake again, starting to dehydrate and overheat.