the final push!

Well, I didn’t get as drunk as I have in the past, maybe it’s a sign of maturity, but I still had a pretty damn good time (imagine that) and I made it home okay, so that’s always nice. You never know when them Canadian custom folk are gonna get bored and give tha rubber glove. It was great to see all my good friends again, it’s not the same as hanging out on a rope, or at the crag or even in the backyard with a log on the fire talking shitsmack, but it was so good to see so many of the best people I know. Here’s some pics.

So, for Luke, (the guy who asked about the new nano puff in the post below), I got my hands on one and did some product testing.  I cranked the air condition last night (which is horrendously bad for the environment, but if you wanna make an omelette you gotta break some eggs right?) and then proceeded to spend 8 hours curled up beside the deadly machine, open bivy style.  What a suffer fest.  The shit I do for you people.

When the morning came I couldn’t feel my legs, at all, doctors think they’ll be forced to remove at least the big toes on each foot, but the good news is that I survived and since I didn’t bring a stove or any coffee grinds with me, I was happy to locate a Starbucks in the lobby.  The oxygen was a little lower on the third floor than it was on say the ground level, but not too bad so I feel pretty lucky walking away from this, however, the fourth floor would have been really pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.  At around 4 am I got bored, and watched some Law and Order, it didn’t seem to get in the way of my results, so I felt it was pretty harmless.  The Nano Puff rules, I honesty can’t believe how light it feels.  At one point (early on) I was sweating and without a base layer on, it felt a bit damp, but with a thin wool under layer it wouldn’t be an issue.  They’re going to have a few different versions of this, I think I would prefer a hood on mine.  The colors are BRIGHT.  Orange and green I saw and they’re like reflectors.  If that doesn’t bother you, than I say pick one up, fucking brilliant for long days in the shade.

“I love smooth skinned mormon boys THIS-much” says Timmy O’neill.  There is no off button on this man, it’s all Timmy all the time, even at o’clock in the morning the dude left his shirt and shoes at his hotel and came down for a session of slacking and the posing and the talking of life’s most sought after questions which we never got to the bottom of by the way.  Someone get this man a drink, he is an ambassador of LIFE.

And then after, he begged me to take a photo of his ass.  Ladies, behave.

The scene on the inside wasn’t much better I regret to inform you.  I went from looking at Timmy’s Ass to seeing my man WIG and the undesirable effects of a ‘Whiskey Wednesday”, not to mention crazy Ivan Green’s middle finger.  But it made for a cool snapshot I suppose, so what the hell?

But perhaps this was the coolest part of the day, ya know, if you’re some sort of tech nerd, playing with the new Metolius super small, ultra light, and ubber strong wire gate carabiner will get your butter churning.  I don’t know if they have a name for them yet, I’m sure they do, but they’re so small and so cute, like mini carabiners, but with equal holding strength.

Afterwards I went to have a gander at the Nutrino, just for reference, sorry the pics didn’t turn out that good, but noticed the curvature in my hand,  that should tell you just how much smaller the new micro biners are.  The funny thing is, they aren’t hard to clip at all.  They would serve a purpose in the alpine I’m sure.

Here’s another perspective, it’s as if they were built for your coffee mug or something, or for small children, or big burly dudes who hate carrying too much weight.  Imagine what a rack of these might weigh in your pack?  The world has come a long way since the days of nuthin but steel ovals.

And again the Nutrino,  nuthing against BD, at all, I love them guys, but it was pretty nifty to see metolius pushing the limits on this.  Just an observation.  But still my most favorite biner of all time is the PETZL SPIRIT.  For obvious reasons of course, and you’re lying if you don’t agree with me.  Admit it.  Liar.

This is a great photo of Collette being nothing shy of sensational, and Andrew being, well, Andrew I guess.

And of course one of many highlights, but this is me chillin with shorter than normal Glen Plake,  I never realized it before, cuz I’ve never seen him with his hair down, but I’m actually slightly taller than the legendary skier. So, I’m just going to throw this out there,  WHO, if anyone should be the Glan Plake of climbing?  Jason Kehl was on it for a while, but the image he goes for it a little darker and more doll like than the rainbow colored mohawk?  Honestly, who do we know that’s this fun and colorful and still rips? I vote for Fred Becky.

Here’s a picture of Glen in the days we remember him well for….

  • i still remember footage of glen plake straight-running chutes when others said they were too narrow to even jump turn… and then wider ones for fun.


  • Goose

    That looks like a BD Oz biner to me….those new Metolius biners are so small! Agreed on the Spirit.

  • Glenn Plake skied twin-tips in the 80’s!? That dude was my hero.

    Or is that a more recent photo, and he’s still sporting the neon pink!?

    In that case, that dude is still my hero.

  • Danny
  • Thanks for the review. Cool to hear Patagonia may be coming out with a hooded version that would be a big plus. Sounds like you enjoyed the open bivy even though the conditions were quite extreme. Good thing you made it to the Starbucks, “we” (us people) would hate to lose you over a gear review.

  • Apes

    You are such a goof!!! I like goofs.