So this is cool shit. Just another example of how and why I believe in hangboard training over other forms. Check this out from 8a.nu – Letitzia Columbo (age 51) a.k.a “Super Titta” has done Calvalveri Selvaggi, 8a+ (5.13c) in Sperionga. It has a 20 meter roof section in the dell’areonauta cave. When Letitzia was 40 she did her first 7a. The secret she says is dead-hang training (aka fingerboarding) as she has had a back problem for over a year.
Oh Man, – it’s spring time and there is soo many cool things happening. I wish there were two of me sometimes, so I could be in two places at once. This World is just too beautiful for one set of eyes, and there is too much climbing to do for just one set of arms and legs. Do you ever feel that way? Like you’re missing out? For example, I LOVE Squamish, I mean, I really LOVE it, I could be like Ron Kauk is with the Valley and just never leave this place. In fact, today is yet another gorgeous sunny day, so we are going bouldering at 2pm. It stayed light yesterday until about 7:50pm, sooooo exciting. If anything rad goes down I’ll let you know, there’s a strong crew in Squampton these days, and they are only getting stronger.
But if I could, the other “me” would probably be in Boulder right now, or maybe Britain, or in Spain. Matt Segal lead a new climb that’s been sitting there for a while. I think the moves were top roped before but certainly never lead, so BIG PROPS to Segal, check out his funny blog about writing. Also, Matt Wilder is in Boulder trying to climb Iron Monkey 5.14. Ethan Pringle (of course) made the second ascent of this short and tasty pitch, and said it felt pretty hard. Well that’s nice because it shows that Ethan too has to bend his elbows from time to time. ha. I worked on Iron Monkey for a couple of weeks back in the spring of 2006. It was actually still very wintery, early March-ish. I can’t remember how many times I tried it, maybe 5 days and I think I may have stuck the dyno once, off the dog, with perfect timing, setting and evertyhing. Climbing into the dyno wasn’t that bad and I could link after the dyno pretty easily, but linking it all together was a whole ‘nother story. I’ve been told from many people that it’s a lot harder if you’re taller, but I’m not sure, I just think it’s a lot harder if you’re weaker. I’m not a boulderer so to me it felt desperate, V12+ probably. But I think it’s great fun, I like having lines out there that oppose to my style, makes me want to keep striving. Maybe I’ll be back in November. In the meantime good luck to Wilder.
Ben Bransby the polite, and well spoken bad-ass climber from England has made yet another brilliant first ascent, and this is just me talking here, but tell me, honestly, is this not one of the most striking boulder problems you’ve ever seen? Man, what I’d give for just one slap.
The Big Up Productions crew is back in full swing as well, they seem to have their plate full with many a filming projects. Did you see the stuff they did in NY? Angelic.
Quite frankly, I hate the word BLOG, it pisses me right off. But I love bloggers. I love spending 15 or 20 minutes a day and learning about all the radness/sickness that’s happening around the world, I love when people show us pictures and tell us stories, because they are representing for the guys and girls who wish “we had two of us”. I wish I could be in Spain right now, falling off some world class 5.14b, wishing I had stayed at the rest for a few more breaths, or wishing I had twisted into that pocket just a little more instead of rushing it. I wish I could be sitting in the shade instead of searching for sun. I wish I could be in Boulder, climbing with Matt, taking calculated risks and sticking that dyno. But I’m not, I’m here in Squamish with my thoughts, my high speed internet, my beautiful lady, our climbing/yoga lifestyle.
On that note, I think it’s about time, the other me, went climbing, for REAL. I can dream of having two ME’s, being in two places, having two experiences (at least) but really, the best of life is being in the present moment, being right here where you are, and here I am. Squamish. So I’ll pack my bag, roll up my pad and head for the granite blocs that are calling my name.
To all the people out there willing to share your adventures, poems, art and thoughts, thank you and keep it up, you keep me centered in a different way, you keep me alive, inspired and dreaming and yet present at the very same time. Namaste.