Bustin out the Goodies!

YAHOOOOOOO!  The new patagonia Tin Shed has been released.  Yesterday around 3pm.  I’ve only had time to watch three or four shorts so far, but they are incredibly well done, moving, inspiring, funny, historical and most of all beautiful.  Last year when the Tin Shed site was released, it won an award for it’s authenticity, design and creativity, beating out the likes of Nike, Coke and other big name companies.  The Tin Shed is brought to you by a very hard working team “in house” at patagonia headquarters in Ventura, CA.  This small, but incredibly talented group of climbers, skiers, surfers, carpenters, writers and photographers and mountain life enthusiasts, has pumped out another outstanding installment.  I know what I’ll be doing over breakfast.  Check it out for yourselves.

So by far my favorite clip is the short movie about SUPERCRACK.  (Check out those hexes).  It’s a magnificent film blending original climbing footage from the historic 1976 ascent with modern day interviews and pictures.  The audio at the very beginning is enough to make my hair standup at the back, it sounds like two climbers (ANY ERA you choose) talking about the risk involved in doing this route.  It sounds exactly like a conversation I had about a route that was in “question” regarding it’s safe factor not very long ago.  I was so blown away by the rising sun and SPIRIT in which these climbers climbed.  It goes to show that the gear has changed, the techniques, even the media, but the spirit remains the same.

Here is a short obituary I found on earl Wiggins if you feel like reading.

“EARL WIGGINS was a rock climber best known for his cutting-edge ascents in the Utah Canyonlands during the mid-1970s. He reached a much wider audience, however, with his work for the cinema. Audiences for many of the Hollywood “blockbuster” action movies of the last decade will have unwittingly admired his skillful handiwork in helping to arrange and film stunt sequences.

Wiggins hailed from a school of radical American desert climbers who are widely credited with helping to shape the laid-back minimalist style – the “rope and the rack and the shirt on our back” approach – which characterized the golden age of Seventies American rock climbing. The main aim was to pare down the climbing equipment paraphernalia carried on climbs, and ascend difficult routes in the purest athletic style possible. Wiggins was one of an elite group who sometimes took this to its logical limit, soloing desperately hard routes without a rope or running belays to catch him should he fall. A bold climber right from the start, he soloed the extreme climb Outer Limits in Yosemite at the age of 16, followed by Whimsical Dreams at Turkey Rock, Colorado, and, in 1980, the 14-pitch climb Scenic Cruise in Utah’s Black Canyon, completing this hard and dangerous climb in just an hour and a half.

Arguably Wiggins’s finest moment came in 1976 when he made the first ascent of the world-famous Supercrack in Utah’s Indian Creek Canyon. A strenuous and much-photographed route, it can only be climbed using a specialized technique climbers call “jamming”. By shaping their fists into a boxing-style clench, climbers literally “jam” them into wide cracks, along with their feet, and haul themselves upwards using friction.

Today, it is possible to arrange a degree of protection on such types of climb by using expandable camming devices, but back in 1976 Wiggins had to rely mostly on his faith in his strength and stamina to down-climb if he got into difficulty. Putting this achievement into context, the desert-climbing veteran Annie Carrera commented, “Protecting surgically perfect parallel-sided cracks without a full rack of `Friends’ [modern camming devices] was a form of Russian roulette that few chose to pursue.” The US climbing legend Henry Barber later described Wiggins’s ascent as “groundbreaking”; in the pre-cam era this could have easily have been literally true.

Earl Wiggins, rock climber, film-stunt rigger/cameraman and producer: born Colorado Springs 24 August 1957; married; died Lake Oswego, Oregon 28 December 2002.”

Colin Wells, I believe.

  • rich

    But Sonnie it’s almost lunch time…. late riser?

  • Good call. Watching that grainy footage of him climbing made me shiver. Those guys were the real deal. I feel like a fraud sometimes for spending my time spraying on the net when I should be out there bustin’ it…. but such is life I suppose! Just more incentive for me to get my lazy ass across the pond to Indian Creek!

    Take it easy dude

  • Stephen

    I’ll join you there Paul, the plan is to get there next spring when Ailish is over that direction working……yes i am stalking you around the interwebs 😛

  • I don’t know whether to be amused or disturbed Steve…. at least you don’t know where I live! 😛

  • Andy Chasteen

    The Tin Shed. Talked to Kristo yesterday and he said they had been hard at work on it. Looks like it paid off….

  • supafly

    as an aside.. nice pants on your hampi short sonnie.

    power to the pink stripes! 😀

  • Sonnie

    Ha ha ha, yes man, power indeed. Can’t be afraid to live in color man. We only got 100 years on this dustball.
    Since you seem like a fan and the sort who may appreciate this, I’ll leave you with the wise lyrics of Mr. Steven Tyler of Aerosmith. The third to last line is hilarious….

    Pink it’s my new obsession
    Pink it’s not even a question
    Pink on the lips of your lover, ’cause
    Pink is the love you discover

    Pink as the bing on your cherry
    Pink ’cause you are so very
    Pink it’s the color of passion
    `Cause today it just goes with the fashion

    Pink it was love at first sight,
    Pink when I turn out the light,
    Pink gets me high as a kite

    You could be my flamingo
    ‘Coz pink is the new kinda lingo
    Pink like a deco umbrella
    It’s kink – but you don’t ever tell her

    I want to be your lover
    I wanna wrap you in rubber
    As pink as the sheets that we lay on
    ‘Coz Pink is my favorite crayon, yeah

    Pink it was love at first sight
    Pink when I turn out the light
    Pink it’s like red but not quite
    And I think everything is going to be all right
    No matter what we do tonight

  • Hey Sonnie
    Thanks for the props on the supercrack trailer. It’s been a long time In the making of that film. I’m super excited to get it out there soon for everyone to watch.