Mellow Yellow

So far, it’s been mellow here in Hueco, the crowds are everywhere but here. The campground is fairly quiet, the weather is as usual, impeccable, and the climbing is indescribable. I could try, but I would fail miserably and look even mo foolish than I normally do, so I won’t, but if you can try to imagine the perfect boulder problem for you, it’s quite possible that it lives here in Texas. We managed a half day with our legendary friend Lynn Hill, whom I’m sure you’ve all heard by now sent a V12 this week with that gleaming smile. She is an unstoppable force. Strong throughout and tough minded, she doesn’t take no for an answer, a shinning light that touches us all.

Another shinning star these days is the Vancouver resident, Sean McColl. You’ve heard his name, he’s pulled on some small holds. Maybe some of the smallest in the world. He’s endured rope climbing comps, became a champion more than twice, and can likely kick your ass on the x-box too. He climbed 5.14 at 12 years of age and now climbs V12 by the time you and I can pull on our climbing shoes. He’s had an impressive two days here focusing on flashing hard. He managed an easy first try ascent of Full Service V10 and yesterday walked away from the 16 foot lip of ‘Rules of Chaos’. A highball V10/11 put up first by Jason Kehl. I’ll keep you posted on his project progress.

My finger is still aggravating me. GAWD DAMMIT. Ha ha ha. Grin. I take my time warming up, film a lot and sit in the sun until I see something that won’t make it worse. I can’t believe it’s been 5 weeks of no climbing at all, I feel like a sloth. At least a toe nail infection would have allowed me to do campus sessions and work outs. Yesterday I managed two easy V8’s without any finger tape, so I count that towards a mental step forward, climbing without tape. Today is a rest day, driving around El Paso in circles, looking at all the pretty buildings and I’m missing my girlfriend. I wish Lydia was here, she would really really love this place, I hope she gets to see it soon (maybe later this winter). Lucky for me there is youtube and I can see her now whenever there is a wifi connection. Lydia’s been doodling with youtube lately, sometimes when she’s just messing around the house, or has something to say, she turns the camera on herself and wings it. Which is great for aspiring yogi’s and seasoned veterans. Personally, and maybe I’m just being biased, but I’m pretty sure this is the best youtube video on the net right now. probably EVER. Against her wishes, I am going to post it here, because I thought maybe it can help us appreciate what it’s like to feel flexible again, like a 2 year old with straight healthy bones, a strong back and full of pure life.


  • caroline

    Wow, wishing I could just touch my toes!! The thought even hurts.

    Hope the finger holds out for you.

  • elias

    dude….my jaw just hit the floor!!!! those exercises are incredible, i won’t be able to do that at least in a million years, she must have very very fit abs to hold positions like that….jeeezzz it’s sick. like caroline said, imagining myself stretching and doing all that yoga is hurting my back already…hahahahaha. congrats to lydia.

  • Danny

    Is that big Paulie sitting in the background? Cause it makes the video that much better.

    Can’t wait to come up and chill with you guys, wish I was down where the stars are big and bright at night.

  • Dustin

    That is one insane video. For Serious.


  • Lucas

    I am glad that Lydia isn’t as into climbing like you are… she’d smash all regard that I hold you in. I don’t see much yoga, but this is some pretty great stuff. I was very impressed. Props if you can even keep up with a gal like that! Does she have any sisters?? ha ha! Keep living man.