Monday Dec 8th

So far the Wet Coast Winter has been easy on us. Yesterday Lydia and I went for a jog in our t-shirts. Snow or anything resembling snow has yet to hit even the top of the Chief let alone the city streets. However, if one was so inclined, you could drive the 25 minutes up to Whistler Mountain and suck back as much POW as you’d like. If I’ve never said this before, I love snowboarding, but I hate driving around all the time on icy roads, that’s why the Coast is good for me, it may not be for everyone, in fact we hope it isn’t, but it’s good for us.

Here is a photo I took of my van in Canmore on a minus 30 degree day.

So, I’m packing today for Hueco another beautiful place among many around the world. Jamie Chong has got me all fired up with his blog now that he’s there and shredding. Unfortunately, my finger has not healed yet, I have to go back to the hospital today and maybe go for a third round of drugs. It just won’t die. I talked to ‘Strong George’ at the Edge the other day, you guys all know Strong George don’t you? Big tall guy, always smiling, joking, and campusing? Dude climbs like V14. Anyway, he told me a scary story about his finger nail infection he had SEVEN years ago. He’s never had one before or since, but this one lasted him one full year. 365 days. He had four operations to remove the bacteria. FOUR. After the second one and months and months of battle, they decided they may have to cut it off. He went to see another doctor and got more work done, finally it cleared up (like I said, after a year) and there is nothing left but a faint scar and some V12’s in his wake. It’s scary though, ’cause you never know when it’s gonna flare up again.

So, I am going to Hueco and I am going to climb my heart out, but with a big fat wad of tape on my finger (don’t worry it’s not contagious), no crimping allowed for me, which is sort of like going to font and avoiding all the slopers. FUCK. But what other option do I have? One day I will look back at this hiatus and say it was a learning experience, a test of patience. the problem is, right now I want to climb soooo badly, but I can’t. No, that’s a lie, I can, just not at the same level, with a minor set back, and that is the way we deal with our injuries, with our set backs, we move forward regardless, we do not let them stop us enjoying the world, we change and we adapt and we go outside, wrap tape around our wounds and keep having fun, keeping tearing it up the best we can, no matter what.
I have to go pack my bags, but I’ll leave you with an article, if you are interested. I posted on Sat I think. It’s on the headers section of this site called “HISTORY” it’s not a blog, it’s a brief write up on the history of training for climbing. I don’t go into the complexities of it, and I don’t talk about all the new theory of today, I simply keep it light and informative. You may want to re-set the size of your text, it’s a bit longer than I expected it would be at first. I hope you enjoy it.

  • Damn, son. Best wishes on your finger. Of course, it took Tommy losing a digit to crank 5.15, so maybe it wouldn’t be such a bad thing…
    P.S. If things go south we could always sue a doctor…oh wait, can you do that in Canada?

  • PKeen

    Hope to see you in Hueco, Sonnie! Crank hard, man.


  • Firestone

    I’m dealing with a lot of knee problems right now and that ‘test of patience’ bit really rings true for me. On some primal level, I know the only way out is through.. thanks for the inspiring words.