The Golden Wall

Oh my gosh, I nearly forgot to mention the big news of this week (or at least in my life).  Two days ago Derek Galloway and I finished off a project that had been hanging over me for nearly one year.  My good friend Nick R and I bolted the beautiful orange headwall last summer and then one thing led to the next and it never got climbed.  This year I headed back with my mate Crosby.  We simu-soloed to the ledge of the Calgary route 5.6 then rested, enjoyed the view and ate a sandwich.  We then headed up the wall in good style until a foot hold broke, sending me flying into the air.  It's incredible to take a big fall when there is more than 500 feet to the ground.  Scary.

Two days ago Big D, offered me a belay, It was my last day to giver.  We rapped into the wall from the top as to save ourselves the scramble.  I was still tired from being sick last week, but managed a clean ascent of the two routes I fell off before.  On top rope and with most holds ticked, Derek G made a brilliant and near effortless flash.  He is now looking for a motivated partner to go back and lead the line, "hopefully with some extra courage" he said.  So if anyone is feeling brave, give him a shout, he's easy to find.

The climbing is WORLD CLASS and overhanging (slightly) the whole way.  5.12b, 5.13b, 5.13a, 5.12b.  So far we have dubbed it the Mistress, but maybe there should be a refrence to the golden nature of the line. Tangerine?  Any thoughts?  It was a great day to be in the mountains, hot but windy, the line is well bolted with great belays, a little more traffic will clean it up perfectly, as it is very few chips crumble, the only draw back is that it's hard to rap off, if you think you're not going to make it, rap to the ledge and finish on the Calgary Route.  I am so stoked we were able to git er done, Derek is climbing extremely well this summer and hopefully he'll get a chance to investigate Nick's latest proj, the Blue Jeans. 5.14????

Climbing such high quality sport routes, this high off the ground is like nothing else I've done in North America, maybe Mexico. But topping out on a mountain is more than this soul cold ask for.  I wish I had more time to try Will Gadd's Yamabushi.  Supposed to be another classic, yam is still full of potential. 

Okay, the car is packed, off to the cottage for a week of canoe tipping.  have a good one.


  • ron klingler

    Enjoy your time off, it seems to get harder to find in our busy lifes.

  • Erica

    Tangerine Mistress?

  • Philip Carberry

    Tangerine Dreams?

  • elias

    tangerine maiden? the great tangerine? tangerine life? tangerine fingers? lol sorry not very gifted when naming problems…

  • leblank

    dude, or dudette? i would like some beta on your “orange” wall cryptic route description. location other than YAM – start and is it ok to lead, or do i have to hike the back, set up a TR and then have some “trad” man entoll some traditional method on me for TR’ing on ‘his’ wall? sounds sweet and i am freaking keen for a young man …

  • Sonnie


    Thanks for the suggestions guys, all good ones. I’ll sleep on ’em.

    Leblank, yah dude, it’s right up your alley for sure. Call Punter, he went out with me last year and said he’d ‘go back’. The line breaks off of the Calgary route, (like I mentioned above) If you climb the Calgary line it’s impossible to miss it. Just look for the first bolt out right. It’s great to lead, it’s very well protected. You can rap into if you’d like, we put an anchor on top. It may be easier this way, but either way it’s dope ass. There are no natural gear placements, it’s all bolted. Good luck finding a young man…

  • Al

    Golden Lady? Has the bonus of being named after a very funky Stevie Wonder song…