Yo yo yo, So check this out ya’ll. (I’m so gangsta) here at www.sonnietrotter.com we have the latest and greatest news, sometimes even before all the big prestigious Climbing rags get it, manipulate it, puts words in our mouths and try to make us look even more stupid than we did in 5th grade math. Doh! So last night over a glass of wine I get a jingle in my pocket, A text message from the boys in Banff. If you skipped yesterday’s post (which I highly recommend you do) you will have noticed that the dream team of Ethan Pringle and Matt Segal are in the Bow Valley for some stone destroying. Well, I just got word. Matt (Iron Monkey) is a little shorter than Ethan and I and so far is not able to make the big stretch (iron cross move) on The Path 5.14R.
“the path follows the steep roof cuts into the big roof and through the two black streaks. It is not the hardest climb I have done, far from it, but it is one of the best unclimbed lines I have ever seen. It was a dream to make the FA of this stunning feature”
I recall the move being hard for me at first, but with cooler temps and a little practice it got easier and easier. This may be one circumstance where being an inch shorter makes all the difference. Ethan on the other hand, who is fresh from his BLITZ in Utah (flashing two 5.13D routes in a day) sent the climb with little effort, in two days. Apparently Ethan has been doing a shit tonne of hangboard exercises and is making juice from the rock he squeezes. It was his first real hard trad route and I suspect he’s into it. I’m stoked they came up to climb the route, somehow having an all American boy tick it, gives the line a bit more validity and world class status, it is no longer just some obscure road cut that some obscure Canadian climbed with a hacksaw and lack of judgment. It is now a climb, that seems worthy of repeating, for fun and for joy and for all the girls at the bar. Good job to both of these soldiers.
In other news, I was on my out of the Library yesterday when I ran into non other than Nico Favresse (the famous Belgian climber). It’s funny, I first met Nico in the VRG back in 1999. We were both trying the same hard routes and enjoying the friendly competition. If I fell on a 5.13, he would onsight/flash it, and then he would fall off something and I would onsigt/flash it, we were always trying hard.
“this is a photo I took of Dedier climbing through the crux. I had jammed a very sharp knife into my hand and was injured for most of the summer months, but I was able to yell encouragement and take some pretty pics. Nico is also using the undercling beta”
This year Nico is in top form, he has a slew of 5.13 onsights in Whales E7’s and made the second ascent of Greenspit (5.14) in Arco, which he said is not that bad, but fun. This year he has his vision set on the Cobra Crack. Of course. Ha ha and he has found some new beta that seems to work better than the escape Dedier and I were using. Apparently he puts his foot over his head, on what I don’t know, it never occurred to me to try that. He is going up today to give the line another go. He still has ten more days before departing to the Bugaboo’s and then to Yosemite and the Creek. Keep your eyes open for this master of stone, he is brave, he is strong and he is on the loose.
And Finally, this is a picture that has nothing to do with rock climbing, but it made me laugh anyway. I hope you are all having a good, high energy day. Live your dream.