July 14th

So much action.  Lydia and I have been on the road and homeless now for 7 months.  It is getting tiresome.  But we are so stoked to be here, back in Squamish, if only for one week.  So get this, we landed in Calgary (from Boulder), enjoyed Canmore for 24 hours and then loaded up my van for a 12 hour drive to the Wet Coast.  Since returning home, I've had to deal with unpaid taxes, bills, an abondonded car, liscence registration, storage units, gas prices and a lost cell phone.  I need a rest. ha ha ha.  But of course it is all good.  We are living our dream little by little.  But first, I need to backup, so much to say, so little time and so much hatred for this little computer.  Last weekend in Rifle, I found myself staring down the crux holds for a 5.13d called HUGE.  It's supposed to be the best route in the canyon.  I was still "warming" up and I had flashed to this point of the route with very little effort.  I took on the bolt to pre inspect.  I solved the crux and then lowered for a terrible ache in my feet was beginning to grind away at me (new shoes,  whaddya gun'a do?).   I knew very well that there was still a nasty crux much higher up the wall, but I knew the line was going to take me at least three or four working burns.  Well, on my second burn I surprised myself and blasted through the crux, yikes, which meant I have to flash the upper head wall.  So PUMPED.  But it was good for me, because I was forced to put up a big fight. Bent elbows, gritting teeth, it's been a long time since I've done that.  I was a happy boy and when I got down, my belayer and friend Julia said "you should have listened to me and tried to flash it.  You would have".  I have never flashed a 5.13d, not becuase I can't but becuase I just don't have the mental toughness to stick to onsight climbing.  Maybe I'll have to work on that.

HUGE 5.13d follows the obvious blue streak. Such good quality. I feel like a dear caught in headlights.  My arms have not been this pumped in ages.  Felt good, sort of.  Becasue the airline lost my luggage, I had to borrow everything, rope harness, ect..ect… 


Eating Sushi in Kamploops.

This is my van.  Never before has it been so full, Lydia is all laughs, but that faded when I showed her the other four boxes that would be sitting on her lap for the 12 hour drive, ha ha ha.

We climbed a day at the Bluffs, here Slim is trying to trust natural gear again.  Get your granite groove on.

She can crimp on anything.  Here Lil Z is crushing the crux of some 5.11 SLAB route.  What was she thinking?

This is our friend Scott, tearing it up on Angels Crest.  We did it with two parties of two, fun, but my calves are still burning and my quads, from all the low angle high stepping,  Steep climbing is WAY more fun.

Sarah doing the Angels Crest arete feature, no gear and again styling the final offwidth summit push pitch.  Spectacular.




Ethan Pringle (climbs 5.15) is in Canmore and is going to repeat The Path 5.14R.  Matt Segal (climbs 5.14 trad) is also there with him to repeat the climb and they rule.  I hope they both flash it, down grade it, call it a pile of choss and say it's contrived.  After all isn't all climbing?  And with that being said, Cobra Crack is back on the radar, just got word that "some guy" fell at the lip yesterday, last move.  He is also able to stop and place gear where I and Dedier could not, so good on them.  I love it that there are so many strong rock climbers emerging, men and women are coming out from all corners of the earth to rise up, climb up and have some fun on the big stone.  It keeps me inspired.  Good luck to all these radical peeps and stay tuned for a report.