Crunch Time

Well, our departure day is seriously beginning to close in on us. We came we tried and we have gotten way stronger. Yesterday marked our official 2 week point. In the last 14 days we have climbed for 8 and it has been GLORIOUS. Yesterday was an exciting day, there was a parade and marching band in the park across the street, thousands of people came out to make some noise and blow some bag pipes. Then, a poor punk kid and his friends scrambled on top of a boulder (which seemed like a good idea at the time) but then couldn’t get down. Two of them eventually managed to get talked down, but the third one made a stand. He was not about to budge. His friends heckled for a while and called the Fire Dept. They came out, (5 or 6 of them) they slipped around in rubber boots and decided they get paid overtime if this takes them over 6pm. They called the Police, six of them showed up, then they called the Mountain Rescue Team, the mountain rescue showed up and called the Coast Guard. Now let’s think about this shall we? How many people does it take to talk a 14 year old boy to climb back down the very same way he climbed up? Then came in the Chopper. These boys had steele cables and were dressed for war. In the end, Cory and myself as well as a very friendly local climber named Peter (I think) climbed up, put a harness on him and top roped him back down to the safety and laughs of his good mates. Although they were nice about it and all, I still hate cops. No offence to anyone, I just don’t like uniforms and/or authority figures.

We leave in four days, the forcast looks good for the next three. But Wed is heavy rain. Our bodies are tired, we’ve tried hard over the last two weeks and our arms need rest. If we rest, we only have one day to redpoint. If we don’t rest, we will probably have two very weak and pathetic attempts. What’s an obssessed climber to do? What I would love, is to go home for a week, chill with my girlfriend and then come back again for the send. But, we are here now, tired or not, I think we are going to try, warrior style. The question is, if we don’t make it, do we go home on the day we said we would, hold our head up high that we managed to have a successful trip regardless of claiming clean ascents, or do we risk more and stay an extra week just in case there is a glimmer of hope that we can actually scale these walls? The truth is, I am getting tired, I am missing my bed, I am missing my girlfriend, and Cory and I have watched every single episode of Scrubs, – but damn the climbing is so freakin good and I am so freakin close. What is a guy to do? Torn. I hear the English boys are up here today, we’re going out to watch the action, maybe get inspired and lace up our boots. I’m also inspired by Lydia’s new yoga workshop in Canmore. She and her friend Sarah offered a hugely successful MYSORE style program at the Lounge. I wish I could have been there. Even though I am here trying to climb a hard route (FOR ME ANYWAY) I can’t help but wonder where my time is best spent. I love to travel, I love to climb, but there is no place like home.

  • Jonny

    Wer’e all rooting for you over in England, don’t lose heart you can send it!

  • Gary Gray

    Sonnie Man

    As a big supporter of yours I was disapointed to find out that you hate Cops!

    You see that as a Cop for over 20 years I expect that sort of ill-thought out sentiment from ignorant toerags and certainly not from someone like yourself.

    But hey everyone’s entitled to an opinion and this is still a free country so good luck with your send but don’t ask me for the time!

  • Matt Buchanan


    As a climber but also a cop I’ve got to say you’re comment also saddens me. I’ve been bouldering a fair bit at Dumby recently. I’ve been impressed not only by your commitment and determination but also by you’re humility and good nature. You seem an intelligent chap so hopefully you’ll outgrow this hatred of all things that represent authority.

    Anyway – here’s hoping for cool conditions, good skin and good reason for a decent swally before returning home.



  • Sonnie


    Good to hear from ya’ll, especially you fine upstanding police officers. Like I said, no offence. My comment was actually a personal jab at a few friends of mine who are cops. I didn’t mean for anyone to get in the line of fire during one of my pathetic jokes. There is a lot of stuff on here that is directed for specific people, I suppose I need to be more considerate for those who aren’t in the same loop as I. My sincere apologies.

    Jonny, thanks man, but SM is here now, I am relieved of my duties. ha ha ha.

    Happy Climbing Everyone

  • John

    Yo Gary Gray

    Nice comment”As a big supporter of yours I was disapointed to find out that you hate Cops!”

    Maybe if the Law Officers of the world earned the respect instead of expecting it, maybe less people would hate cops.

    Vancouver Airport, RCMP tazoring an innocent man.

    Nuff said.

  • ktmt

    Yo! Let’s get back on topic. Dig deep, Sonnie. Center, and then send that thing! No doubts.

    Strong thoughts to you!

  • Suzanne

    Oh geez, have to say that sounded way over the top regarding that drama over rescuing that young lad. Tell me, did the local press turn up? I wouldn’t be at all surprised, as I remembered how they had a habit of showing up (when you least wanted them to). Hats off to you – I predicted that one coming of you rescuing him as I progressed to reading it.