Double Dose

It’s been a few days since I’ve written anything, except for the post below (Dose) which I submitted 45 minutes ago, I’ve been lame. I know. There has been a lot on my mind lately about climbing, most importantly, about climbing Rhapsody, I have made a new discover which may change the future of the line, but I won’t go into that just yet, I’ll bring it up again when I feel the time is right and when I feel like I can articulate the situation without complication. Until then, I am going to post pictures of Cory, Paul and I eating at the local Chippy. I’ve had fish and chips five times since I’ve been here, (salt and sauce please!) three nights in a row last week and Cory is addicted to the deep fried cheese burgers. Also, the Chippy’s are the only places open when we get home, which is like 11:30 every night, our schedule is WAY off. Asleep by 2am, up at 11am. Coffee at 12 or 1. It’s crazy. We don’t leave to go climbing until 2 or 3 PM, it’s insane.

Yesterday was only day 6 and things are coming together smoothly. Stoked. This pretty much doubles the amount of days I’ve been on the route. ha ha ha. Last year I think we got 6 or 7 days in during our entire 3 week stay, minus the 8 resplendent days we fled to Mallorca.

Of those 6 or 7 days of “climbing” in Dumby, it rained nearly everyday and we climbed in between pockets of blue sky, also there were three of us, so burns were kept to a ‘two go’ minimum. This year, it’s just Cory and I, not to say Nick isn’t missed, but we have more time to chill between burns. And the funny thing is, we still only average two burns per day, for skin reasons and because we are sissy boys who bitch about why we are still weak. The temperatures haven’t been getting decent until late in the day, like 7pm and they seem to get better and better until night fall (which was about the time I fell off the crux last night).

The grips felt a wee tiny bit damp, which only means humidity, because it wasn’t exactly warm. Unfortunately it takes two halves to make a whole. When it’s humid, it’s slippery and god knows how slippery the rock is to begin with. Because of this, it takes more chalk to stick, when on the link there is little chance to stop and chalk on the tiny sloping crimps, therefore, each higher hold proves more and more slippery – example – Left hand 90% – Right hand 70% – Left hand 50% – Right hand 25% – Left hand 0% – FALL OFF. CRAP. Back to drawing board. We want cold AND dry, and possibly windy too, but beggers can’t be choosers. It’s possible those “sending” days might be gone for the year, Dave did Rhaps in April, just after it snowed. But we are still very optomistic, last evening was probably as good as we’ve ever felt it and there is another week for it to get better. We have our fingers crossed.


Sunrise 04:55 (BST)
Sunset 21:33 (BST)
Wednesday's predominant weather is forecast to be cloudy.
Wednesday's wind direction: South Easterly Wind.10
good 1017 43
Wednesday's UV index risk: 3.

Sunrise 04:54 (BST)
Sunset 21:35 (BST)
Thursday's predominant weather is forecast to be sunny intervals.
Thursday's wind direction: East South Easterly Wind.15
moderate 1015 48
Thursday's UV index risk: 4.

Sunrise 04:52 (BST)
Sunset 21:36 (BST)
Friday's predominant weather is forecast to be sunny intervals.
Friday's wind direction: Easterly Wind.14
good 1018 71
Friday's UV index risk: 3.

Sunrise 04:51 (BST)
Sunset 21:38 (BST)
Saturday's predominant weather is forecast to be sunny.
Saturday's wind direction: Easterly Wind.12
very good 1021 57
Saturday's UV index risk: 4.

Sunrise 04:49 (BST)
Sunset 21:40 (BST)
Sunday's predominant weather is forecast to be sunny.
Sunday's wind direction: East North Easterly Wind.13
very good 1024 53
Sunday's UV index risk: 4.

With all these details, we can’t overlook how truly lucky we have been, although we are still waiting patiently for “perfect” we have nothing at all to complain about, we have been blessed this year and we are having the most incredible trip, success or not, it’s been fun as sh_t. SO STOKED and thanks to all the support from everyone.

My (1st) redpoint attempt went well, placing the gear felt good but time consuming and much more heady then TR, I made small mistakes that kept adding up and those minor errors would frazzle me slightly, causing me to overgrip. That is what’s so special about redpointing, refining the process, developing an intimate relationship with the line and enjoying the baby steps. To send one needs the mind and body to work in synchronicity. Also I was surprised by the weight of the rope, it was much heavier than I expected, 35 meters of 9.4 mm rope tugging on my harness and pulling me down. This may explain why Dave climbed it from the ledge to reduce the drag. I felt good coming into the crux, but then looked down to place my foot. BIG mistake. My eyes carried further down the wall and I paused to inspect the gear from above, making sure it was still in place, this glance stole my focus, when I moved into the next move I came up short. I didn’t try as hard as I could have. A small part of me wanted to fall, to test the gear and to answer questions. The climb is hard, the gear is small, the fall is big. I don’t know if it’s E11 because I don’t know what E11 means, because even though it’s been explained to me a thousand times, I still don’t understand the E scale, but it is serious enough not to take lightly. I am gaining more and more confidence and each day we walk away we return one step closer to the of the process.

LASTLY – Let’s all congradulate Adam Ondra, 15 years old, he just sent Action DIrect 5.14d – in 15 tries. He’s made record ascents of 5.15’s and V15’s and basically he is climbing better than
anyone else on the f_cking planet, he’s climbing better than anyone else on the planet has ever climbed, move over boys and girls, the next generation has officially arrived. Here is an interesting perspective between Dani Andrada and Adam Ondra, who would you say has the perfect build for raising climbing standards?

think about it.

  • So 15 year old Harry Potter lookalikes with no appreciable muscle are the future eh? Everyone over 20 should just give up climbing and sell their rack to the next up and coming 10 year old! 😛

    Seriously though, it’ll be interesting to see how his climbing is affected as his body develops. This guy could be a bombshell to the sport!

    Cheers, Paul