So, climbing is fun. I had the most amazing last day in Smith. After a gym session the night before, I packed my bags for Europe and went down to the cliff for an afternoon session. My friends were about to leave the Aggro gully as it was 2:30 in the afternoon. My friend “Scottish Brian” offered up a belay and because the sun was about to make things hot, I decided to give Bad Man a try. After warming up on the starting holds I fired onto the climb, doing it without error and linking to the top in one push. It was the first time I ever warmed up by redpointing a 5.14a. So Stoked. I skipped the last clip and jumped from the anchor, a nice 40 foot lob got me stoked for the big falls on Rhapsody. My preperation is complete. I hope!

Smith to Salem 3 hours.

Salem to Seattle 5 hours.

Seattle to London 9.5 hours.

London to Glasgow 1 hour.

Glasgow to Edinburgh 2 hours (got lost).

20 hours of traveling over 2 days, Yahooooo! The plane was good for my back. Joking.

Okay, Scotland Rules. I’ll tell you all about it soon enough. We got the ropes up today, but it was raining, go figure. Cory and I got one burn on the climb each, chalk turned into what seemed to me like tooth paste and we flailed about miserably, so stoked. On the good side, the climb is still there, both of them, and we managed to get a rope up, avoid castle security and even brush the holds clean. I climbed through the lower half fairly easily, but the headwall crimps were proving very spoogy as they all tend to slope, so I mearly dangled from the edges before falling off and whining about the conditions. Although the people are incredible, the rock quality fantastic, the country is like one big fuh – king swamp. No offense but it’s true.

Some pictures of our day in Seattle. Getting packed and stuff.

Packing my bags at the Salem train station. Looking a little lost eh, I can’t find my mind or my lucky blue alien.

We got invited to a party.

We took over google.

Seattle cab

Coffee, just after lunch, where a pretty girl walked in and ordered us each a refreshing Blonde Ale, then with thanks, Cory invited her to join us for lunch, “no thanks”, she replied, so we continued on about our conversation knocked back the brews and went to the airport.

Talk soon

  • You were real unlucky last year mate, you missed a really dry month before you came over! The weather for the next few days looks pretty good though so the best o luck for it.


  • Suzanne

    I second that: Edinburgh is a beautiful city.. the UK is truly beautiful, I can see why people don’t want to leave here – because when it’s good, it’s REALLY good.

    Who left? My roots are there, I own and will always keep a property in the Scottish highlands, but I live here now, BC, and it is beautiful here too. Scotland is truly a relaxing place to be, and you can’t beat that ‘Edinburgh accent’ we all love.