Everyone likes KY

It's been a while since my last post, but I got two things to say… United Airways SUCK – The Red River Gorge is RAD.  I've been a total shit lately and I must appologize.  I have been in transit and the airports charge an absurd amount of money for 5 min of internet time, and since I am a sponsored athlete and I make zero money, I wasn't about to put up a fight.  Instead I put the plastic, cancerous laptop away for the last six days.  Break the wrist and walk away.  I did take some pictures though.  Okay,  quick report, no more blah…

After a very frustrating experience with United Airways, I board a plane to Santa Barbara. I put in two very fun days with the Patagonia team, learning about the products of the future, very very nice.  I try to attempt surfing, no bueno, no waves.  But Malibu Creek is where the fun goes down.  We drove south of Ventura to Maiibu and up to the National Park.  It wasn't your normal climbing area, you gotta shuffle across this little wall over the water to gain the main gully.  It's a series of caves, littered with pockets and water holes.  Pretty neat actaully.  I can't see it ever being a destination, but it's cool if your in the area.


But Brian Solano was the star of the show.  I have no idea what this was rated or what it was called, but damn, it sure was fun as hell.  The best climb we did during our three hour visit. 

But let's talk more about Kentucky, I mean let's face it, everyone loves KY.  For more information you can go to petzl.com but for the peeps who don't really care that much, let me be the one to inform you of the beta spray, yesterday Sean McColl beta flashed Thanatopsis 5.14.  It was once upon a time rated 5.14c, but Mike Doyle found a much more realistic sequence and climbed it with relative ease.  It now goes around 5.14a/b.  The holds are pretty crap, but the red is a great place for flashing, it's beta intensive.  Sean is CRAZY strong right now and in really good shape, he is no longer the future of climbing, he is the present, him and the other 15 or so mutant kids who basically climb whatever they want.  And in other news, Mickael Fuselier from France who seems to be unstoppable right now, he onsights all 5.13+ routes and today fully cruised the first ascent of "Fifty Words For Pump" 5.14b/c.  So sweet.  Mclure seems set to go for the second ascent any time now and Chris Sharma just arrived into town, so there is much action to be seen.  Please stand by…

Sponsored climbers don't make much money, but we do have a pile of fun. Petzl put us up in these cool cabins above Miguels pizza, it's nice to have a cabin and not have to sleep in a tent for once. I am staying with four other climbers who bust out 5.15 and it's slightly intimidating, but highly motivating.  Tonight is the big party, so if you are in the area swing by and grab a beer, let the festivities begin.  I think I'll be turning in early tonight, gotta go for the onsight comp tomorrow, motherload.  I'm not sure if it matters that I've done all those routes before, mind you it was like 8 years ago so it won't make a difference, it's going to be a fun day, psyched.

ROB is the best, nice ass, John Evans made me say that.


Breakfast, coffee and scrambled something rather. Daniel Dulac cooks every morning, his training as a guide is working well of the rest of us. 

The big black 5 foot long snake, who happened to bite and make Rob Frost bleed. 

Fred, barely awake and ready for work 

Sorry for the long post and any spelling errors, I suck.

I'm out.

  • Apes

    You dont suck. Love your posts! Always a pleasure to read.

  • Suzanne

    Hi Sonny, he he.. just “don’t” fly british airways either, they are one of the worst in my view, your Canadian airline is v.good though, and direct flights here from London. Great pics by the way, very impressive! Last night I watched ‘no permanent address’ that was also impressive. As for being not so rich being sponsored, well money doesn’t buy you happiness either, so as long as you are happy that is all that matters 🙂

    Having much fun my end too lately, with fellow hikers I hike with; and equally with the trail runners, and not to forget the important part, “partying” was Professionals night last night so couldn’t miss that.

  • l

    $ doesn’t buy happiness, sure, but it makes life a whole lot more enjoyable. Up your rates Mr. YOu’re worth it.