Big Willy

Will Stanhope is at it again, the kid cannot sit still.  After bagging Teddy Bear's Picnic 5.12d yadda yadda pitches, he polished off his Assistant Rock Guides cert and now, just last week he made the first free ascent of a bad ass climb on the backside of the Chief.  The line is located about 150 feet to the right of Cobra Crack, it's got a hard start and perhaps a few different finishes.  The finish that Will managed to tick before the rain came was in the lower range 5.13, sick, and next season he hopes to add another finish which is also an unclimbed crack to the left.  The Cirque of the Uncrackables, seem to be getting cracked, slowly but surely.  In true wet coast style, Will climbed the route just before it started rainning and the fall drizzle is now in full effect, he's leaving for Yosemite in a number of days and rightly so named the route, "Going to California".


As for me,  well I just booked three plane tickets, two to California for a two week climbing vacation with my girlfriend and one to Kentucky for the Petzl Rock Trip Oct 12-14th.  Hope to see ya'll there for sure.




  • Hey Sonnie, that’s great to hear about Will. Thanks for putting out the news. Congratulate him for me if I don’t see him first.

    Sarah and I were thinking of climbing at the Red this Fall, but we’re heading to Hueco instead. A large crew of BCers will be there in November, try to make it out!

  • Snafflehound

    So is that the old aid line Magical Dog?

  • will

    yeah, the first pitch of magical dog has now been climbed with a little variation to the top of the wall. that lower photo is of the unclimbed second pitch.

    The Cirque is one rad cliff!