Monkey Off My Back

Well,  I never thought I would see the day,  or at
least not this season anyway, but I am happy to report
that last night around 7:30 pm I finally sent my DREAM
PROJECT.  I fell in love with the line above Wicked
Gravity about three years ago and wondered about it's
possibilites ever since.  This year, after soome work
I finally managed to secure all the gear and do the
moves without too much trouble.  The final headwall
stopped me cold about 2 or 3 redpoint attempts, but I
was usually able to pull it off after a rest. 

Last night, the temps dropped to around 12 degrees,
perfect sending temps for a Canadian Summer.  I
climbed the 45 meter line in one long exhausting pitch
and placed all the natural gear on lead, it was a fun
challenge that i am glad is over and done with, I can
now  relax and take my rock guiding exam with peace of
mind,  no more wondering.

After climb Cobra Crack last year, and trying the E11
route Rhapsody in Scotland in May I can confidently
call this new line one of the words hardest and BEST
traditial lines.  It's clean, it's powerful, it's
beautiful.  Solid 5.14 and very runout, but not
dangerous,  no x factor.

Here ar some pics of the climb taken from some video
footage shot by Cory Richards, sorry about the
resoultion, but this will have to work for now.
Thanks to everyone who came out and supported me,
lot's of love.





  • Sunshine, amazing job. Truely. That line looks dreamboat – inspiring video footage!

    See ya soon, make sure yer up on all those hitches…


  • pete

    nice freaking work sonnie. impressive. looks stellar.

  • lloyd king

    Congradulations succeeding on such a beautiful chunk of quarzite! Keeping it Canadian, I LOVE it.

  • emon

    I just got back to campus for the final push. My dissertation submission date is Sept 18. And your perseverence is inspiring. Thanks for your kind words, too.

  • Sonnie Trotter

    Hey guys, thanks for all the comments, it’s really great to hear from ya’ll. Really. Jason, the hitches are dialed brotha, word.

    Have a great weekend everyone.