As it turns out, it was the fuel pump that died on my van. I had to go deep into my pockets and cough up $1200 to get it fixed. That much money hurts so much to part with, I just don’t have that much money to spend, it’s funny, we never budget for stuff like that, we just live out our daily lives and then BLAM, you get hit on the side by something you never saw coming.
Anyway, we got it fixed, spent a day in Squamish and a day in a half at Index, in Washington. There was a strong crew out there, good people, really good people actually.
The climbing was way better than we expected, smooth but rock hard granite, not a long walk, remote, and the concentration of routes is mind blowing, it’s easy to do 30 pitches in an afternoon without hiking too far and every climb was CLASSIC, no really, every single route we did there was AWESOME.
I tried two 5.13c-ish climbs. One was called City Park and was a classic looking finger crack, it is beautiful to look at and beautiful to climb but damn it’s so painful. Lucky for me the other climb was more sporty, I think it was called Mandela, and had everything in it. 5.12 stemming, a V8 fiinger crack bulging crux and then a 5.12 slab arete tot he anchor. Stout. I managed a lucky ascent just before dark and then we hit the road for Ventura California. Patagonia design meeting. I’ll let you know how it goes. Can’t wait to smell the ocean.