I've been home in Canmore for three weeks and it's been busy,  but then we found these really cheap tickets to Scotland for 500 bucks.  So we decided to take a trip.  

Nick and I flew into Manchester and got in one good day of Gritstone climbing between rain spells.  Dammit, they were not laying about the weather,  IT SUCKS ASS.   The only problem is that the rock really is good.  We managed a few top rope ascents of E8's and below, we were the only grimpers out on the rock and the sky was beautiful,  once I figure out how to attach pics to this blog I will,  and you can see for yourself.

After that we pickes up our buddy Cory in Glasgow and went to Dumbarton Rock.  You know that really infamous place where Dave Macleod keeps putting up all those sick hard trad climbs and boulder problems.  Well here is the take.  Dave is one of the most motivated climbers I have ever met,  he's just jacked about climbing, and he makes climbing look way too easy.

I had a chance to run a toprope up on his new E11 and it's sick.  I saw the video they made last year, and he makes the crux look like piss, when in actual reality, it's NASTY hard,  BRICK hard.  I was able to do all the moves, and link the upper headwall from the last crux move to the top.  I can climb the length of the crack and it's all good pro, but the run out headwall is more involved than I thought.  It's pissing rain today and motivation is low.  We've been sleeping in a park by the beach.  I'm not sure yet if it is illegal but we've gotten a few nights sleep so far without problems, it's free and the water is soothing to fall asleep to.  So that's a bonus.  The downfall is that it rain's here 22 hours a day.  And climbing for 2 hours wih wet ropes is getting really old.  We have two more weeks so stay tuned and I'll let you know how things unfold.



  • Morgan

    “the weather, IT SUCKS ASS”

    very true at the moment but you should have been here in April! Sunny days all round.

    Anyway good to hear somebody is giving Rhapsody a go so best of luck.

    If you get a chance Nth Wales also offers some tip top climbing.

  • mind the neds!!! and drink some bucky!!

  • Sonnie Trotter


    As it turns out I am not as tough as I thought I was. The rain began to get to us and as we are on vacation after all and the forecast looked like rubish we decided to check out and fly to Mallorca. so here we are, in the land of naked sunbathers and some of the best limestone in the world. the best part is that there are only a handful of climbers here and they are buddies of mine from Canada and Utah, we are having a crazy fun time. we gots a slack line set up on the beach, free camping on this semi private beach and the water is blue green like Lake Louise, only 75 degrees warmer.

    for some reason, I can´t seem to add a new blog on this computer so I will just add a comment for now.

    E11 went really well on my last day, i was able to top rope up to the crux a few times and then pull the crux moves once or twice before my skin got too soft. The coastal climate makes it humid and chalk doesn´t quite do it´s job well, the crimpers cut the skin easily and it´s hard to have more than two or three attempts. so with skin issues combined with weather issues it only made sense to come down to spain for a week and climb caves. again, pictures are coming soon. I think once this place gets more discoverd on a moderate level it will be a huge destination, it´s got some brilliant 5.10 and 5.11 climbing here. the 5.12´s and 5.13´s are good too.

    I hope when we get back we´ll have better luck with the scotish weather, but who knows, and who cares, having fun should always be the priority and I´m not going to force myself to sit out the rain with long faces while I can be here in the sun swimming with friends. It was funny, ,i got a bit of feedback from some people telling me to stay and try to get the second ascent of rhapsody, but i just don´t see the point on putting one climb on a mantle, while there are all these other experiences to be had, it should never be about just one climb, that´s like putting all eggs in one basket and when that basket gets crushed so does everything else along with it.

    Either way, coming here was the best decision I have made in months, and as much as I look forward to going back to the land of Scot, I shall enjoy each and every unexpected splash into the salty drink.

    I hope everybody is having a stellar week and thanks for all the emails it´s so good to hear from so many of you, the network of the climbing community is sooo stellar and it keeps all of us motivated and striving for the whats next in life.


  • owen seright

    that would be insane to get the second ascent of rhapsody. Good luck if you continue to try it. If not, enjoy the trip, and get some pics up here!!!

  • Rooster

    Well impressed by your efforts on Rhapsody, even more so considering it’s half way round the world! Best of luck with your next adventure and hope to hear more about your next attempt soon!

    Cheers and safe climbing.

  • Suzanne

    Hey; I used to spend the majority of my weekends at Helensburgh, Dumbarton; and Loch Lomond jetskiing and mountain biking with my boyfriend and his friends at the time who grew up there (his Dad was in the Navy at Faslane). Isn’t it simply beautiful. The West coast of Scotland, is the best part of Scotland, and the most beautiful/ scenic.