FIVE TEN
By far my favorite shoe of all time is the Anasazi Lace-Up. I’ve been scaling with these boots for nearly 15 YEARS. It’s been one of the Worlds most influential climbing shoes for over a decade and has achieved legendary status in its own right (most notably it’s responsible for majority of the worlds hardest free climbs). In the past, it was known as the ‘PINK shoe’, but the modern version is a classy white with black trim, and it not only has the revamped logo digits stitched on the side, but it also has a more secure heel cup which of course ads to its overall performance. (click to enlarge)
The Lace-Up is a stiff, rock solid, edging shoe, which will allow you to trust any ripple, dimple or pimple, but it softens up (just enough) over time to be forever comfortable and precise. I don’t wear mine as tight as some might tell you to, because it’s such a powerful toe that it’ll always maintain its strength, week after week, month after month, and this way, it won’t tear when I’m trying to squeeze into them. Do what you can, and the C4 rubber will do the rest!
Okay, I lied, I have two favorite shoes of all time. The Lace up, (above) and the Tried, Tested and True, Anasazi Moccasym. This shoe is the ULTIMATE well-rounder. I like to use this mostly if I need sensitivity under my toes. England’s Gritstone, Squamish Granite, the Red River Gorge sandstone, when a shoe needs to bend, mold, hook and smear, this is the head honcho in comfort and performance. (click to enlarge)
I wear this shoe in the gym when I’m training, then I take it outside for a quick solo lap up my favorite summer classic, the Squamish Buttress (10 pitches – 5.10c). I guide in this shoe during the mornings, then I’ll take ‘em to the boulders for a quick circuit in the afternoon. Versatility is the one word I’d use to describe it. When I travel somewhere that I’m not sure if I’m going to do any climbing, I always bring the Mocc’s with me, just in case.
If you’re looking for something completely different, then you gotta try the new radical PROJECTS. Designed specifically for steep overhanging rock and gym climbs the “proj” will conform. (click to enlarge)
It’s super thin, soft “Stealth Mystique” rubber is hyper sensitive and will grip to any dingle that dangles. Try them for yourself, you will NOT be disappointed, I promise. If you’re a junkie for the steeps, you’ll end up like my friend Greg Williams, who once told me, “this is my shoe FOR LIFE”. Respect.
Finally, sitting down here below the technical climbing shoes, lives the technical “CLIMBING” shoe. This runner is a NINJA to say the least. The DEASCENT goes from long boarding missions in downtown Portland, Oregon, to the summit of El Cap in 24 hours FLAT. Anywhere the human foot can take you, the Deascent will take you gracefully. I’ve worn this shoe on V9 boulder problems, 5.10 solo’s, and important dinner parties all in the same day. (click to enlarge)
I’ve used them to calm screaming babies, recharge car batteries and repair broken hearts. I’ve dropped my bike off a flight of stairs, hucked back flips and ran up concrete walls. If you like fast and light, put these on so you know the difference.
