NY Update

Thursday, September 8th, 2011

Thank you for all the encouraging comments from the last post.  I know some people say marriage doesn’t change the relationship much, but those words often come from people who aren’t yet married.  I think it’s changed and it’s even better than I could have imagined.  So, a quick update on NYC, Even with the gale force wind gusts, and the pouring rain, New York has treated us well again.  Lydia (a small town girl who loves big gardens and lots of free space) has said that she didn’t think she would like it here, but the city has a certain charm, you can eat every different type of food from every different region of the world, and you can see every single walk of life along the way.  It also seems that anybody who wants to be anybody in the entertainment industry, has to prove themselves here, so there is a major talent pool of artists, comedians, musicians and creators.  It really is an exciting place to visit.

MoMa proves that anything is art if it’s placed in a white room.

The real reason I’m here however is to help patagonia promote the launch of their new Common Threads Initiative program.  Partnering with the mega giant ebay, patagonia has created a first among retailers, a USED gear online store front.  Basically, patagonia is going to piggy back the infrastructure that ebay has created to promote the buying and selling of used patagonia clothing.  The idea is that they don’t want you to buy a new jacket, or sweater unless you absolutely have to.  It’s one step closer for us as a society to start thinking more critically about what we purchase, where it comes from, how long it’s life span is, and ultimately where it ends up at the end of that life.  Perhaps a landfill you can see from outer space?  A recycling program that breaks down material and builds it into new clothing?  Or maybe you hand it down to your son or daughter, or sell it to a perfectly decent stranger on line so that they can buy the best quality made product for their own adventures at a discounted price.  Is patagonia losing sales by telling their customers not to buy new?  Who knows, they certainly aren’t profiting a single penny from this new and visionary initiative, but it’s a small step in shifting our consumerism mentality, and that alone is a winning attitude.  Yvon Chouinard once said that every time he tried to do something good for people and the environment, it was a successful venture.  This, like patagonia as a whole, is simply an experiment, may it inspire us all.

On that note, they have asked me to donate a jacket.  I thought about a jacket that meant something to me, a jacket that had a story, and so I chose to donate my favorite Down Sweater full zip with a hoody.  Tommy Caldwell and I each brought one of these jackets up on our latest route on the Diamond Face on Mount Louie, in the Canadian Rockies.  It’s called ‘The Shining’ and is one of my all time favorite first ascents, not only for the quality of the rock, or the aesthetics of the line, but for the experience that Tommy and I shared, through snow storms, hail, wind, fog and sun, it’s position alone will make it a classic climb for decades.  If you’re in the market for a lightweight down sweater, check it out on the ebay site. Or navigate there from the patagonia home page.  You’ll find lots of amazing used garments, some from legendary climber Rick Ridgeway, and others from bad asses like SLC’s Brittany Griffith. So get on with it already, click on the image below and begin surfing.  It’s fun.  Happy climbing.

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the greatest knot I ever tied

Monday, September 5th, 2011

Well, as it should happen, I’m in New York again.  For someone who is not especially fond of big city’s, I do find myself in the big apple quite a few times a year.  Lucky for me, NYC is a very nice city, and I do enjoy my short visits very much.

I haven’t been taking lots of pictures lately, or climbing that much this month, I spent the last three weeks getting hitched and spending all of my spare time with family and friends and my beautiful wife Lydia.  I did manage to squeak out an article for Rock and Ice, along with Tommy Caldwell, it was my first co-authoring experience and so far, it’s mega fun, it should be coming out Oct 15th.  More on that later.

In honor of my absence from the scene, and the spray, ha ha, I’d like to post some new/old pictures, one is of our recent wedding day.  Originally, I wasn’t going to, because, well, I wanted to keep them between loved ones, but then I thought, what the hell – what’s not to love about the climbing community?   And because admittingly, I am the luckiest guy I have ever known, seriously, that might sound arrogant or whatever, but screw it, what can I say, I’m a proud husband.  I don’t know how I did it, but somehow I convinced this darling angel to commit the rest of her life to me, and to us.  I won’t get too deeply into it, but getting married to this woman is without question the best send of my life.

Speaking of photographs, and Lydia Zamorano, here is a small collection of pictures I took at random this year with my new Sigma fisheye lens.  The fisheye is a very, very fun lens, maybe too fun, you end up wanting to take lots of pics with it, but you can’t overdo it, it will actually get old, trust me, so I have found more comfort in using it like a specialty lens, like a macro, there’s a time and place for it, and when a shot works it works.  I really like the yoga perspective, taken from Lydia’s studio during one of her practices, and the others are of her and her brother Gabe climbing up the Squamish Buttress, 5.10c.  Just a different perspective I guess.  Notice my shirt in the first picture, bottom left corner, this lens is WIDE.   Hope you enjoy them.  Peace out.

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An Embarrassing Memory!

Tuesday, August 16th, 2011

When people ask me when I fell in love with climbing, I say I was about 16 years old (a little late for today’s standards) but then my mom sent me this picture in the mail yesterday, and it occurred to me, maybe I’ve been in love with climbing for a lot longer than I thought!

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A few pics!

Thursday, August 11th, 2011

Two days in a row,  I’m on a roll.  Here are just some pics from my last day of climbing with Jeremy Smith.  Fun times, (before my gear ripped anyway).  Got to extend a huge thanks to Jer for such a great day, and one of the best catches I can remember.  We climbed a 7 pitch 5.12 called Never Never Land.   Then tried to link it into the Edge of Pan, also, 7 pitches if  you do it from Pan Tease.   It’s like Multi-Level-Cragging up there.  Big fun.

Jeremy entering the Guillotine crux 5.12 which he gracefully onsighted.

Jeremy following the endless slab pitch, 50 meters of 5.11+.  Golden.

Jeremy traversing the slabs below the Pan Tease corner.  A bit of route finding skills are recommended up there, but Pan Tease is a VERY excellent route as well and a tremendous way to finish Never Never Land.

Smith doing a hand traverse – this bit of climbing links the striking corner of Pan Tease, into the even more striking corner of Edge of Pan.  Looking forward to getting back up there.  Today I am filming a Canadian TV show called Restless Josie, I am taking her climbing, and we’re going to have some fun at Murrin Rock.  Then it’s back to the usual for me.

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Keeping Up

Wednesday, August 10th, 2011

I just can’t seem to keep up with myself these days.  One day I’m in the Canadian Rockies, the next in Salt Lake City, the next I’m connecting through L.A. and then flying over Yosemite Valley, which may be a bit of foreshadowing as I’ll be spending 6 weeks there this fall.  Even from 30,000 feet and with a wing in the way, you can still make out the Nose and Half Dome, as clear as day.  Check out this picture I took below. Click to enlarge.  Hope you like it.  I think it’s pretty sick if I do say so myself.

Hmm,  Media Stuff.  So, I guess I was on the cover of the Patagonia Catalog in Europe this Spring,  so that’s kinda cool and they also used a Ben Ditto Image from last year of me falling off Evilution Direct, V12, right before I sent it.  A very cool shot.  Ben is so RAD.  Hmmm, what else, oh yah, I guess an article I wrote for Alpinist just came out, I haven’t seen it yet, but people have said some really nice things to me, so that must mean they are lying,  ha ha, but Paul Bride did all the photo’s and those I know for sure are amazing.  I did see the article in the latest Gripped about mine and Ben Moon’s route from last year we nick-named the Butt-Face.  It’s really called the Squamish Buttress, North-Face-Variation.  But call it what you want, it’s 5.9, and a fun little scramble up the big rocks.  Also, please stay roped up until you’re on top, I goofed on the topograph.

A Keith Ladzinski photo, also SUPER SUPER RAD guy.

Anyway, I just really want you all to know that I have been climbing my ass off lately, and feeling stronger, fitter and having more fun than I have had in years, there’s some really cool stuff coming down the pipe, lots of new routes for me, a big day with TC on the Diamond Face, a long free route here in Squamish, I took a 50 footer yesterday and ripped 7 pieces of gear.  This thing might need a bolt.  Hmmmmmm.  Any thoughts out there?   I much prefer no bolts when I can, but there is a time and place for everything, and certain things make certain amount of sense,  this is starting to make more and more sense to me.  Other than that, I am planning my wedding with my beautiful fiance Lydia, and living in my van full time with her.  We are free birds these days, it’s a good feeling.  Less bullshit, more rock climbing.  Happy August to all.

Here’s a pic of Lydia and the DreamBoat in Levenworth, WA.

and here’s a great shot of the van after I finished the building process, took me 3 long hard days, but there’s enough room to still do yoga on the floor, even for my 6 foot long carcass.  BTW, It looks much more lived in now.  Ahhhh, home sweet home.

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Yes Man!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Fist of all, I’m sorry it’s been a while.  Honestly, I have no real excuse other than I’ve been rock climbing a LOT, traveling some, basically, just trying to soak up as much summer love as possible.  It was a hard winter and now it’s on and there’s  no time for the intraweb.

Ever see YES man, that movie with Jim Carrey?  That’s how I feel sometimes.  I’m considered a professional climber because that’s my chosen field and that’s what I love to do, and somehow, that’s how I’ve managed to hustle a living.  But effectively, I am also running my own business.  I’m self employed, and for those who know, when you’re self employed and you have bills to pay, and you don’t know when the next job is coming,  you say YES to everything.   You become a yes man.  Working overtime.  Whatever it takes to make it happen.  It’s only until things settle down and work becomes more predictable that you learn to say no to anything.  But I’m not sure (given my chosen lifestyle) when that predictability will arrive.  So for now, and since I can remember, I’ve been a yes man of sorts.

Yesterday I was in the most heavenly place on earth, (no, not Squamish) Lake Louise, Alberta.  I was out there in the sun, and mixed cloud, climbing with Lydia, getting pumped, clipping bolts, it was awesome.  There’s a new 5.13c/d there for anyone interested, it’s to the right of Jason Lives and it’s actually REALLY good value.  Here’s a photo I took in the meadow on route to the climbing.

And today, like a time warp, I am back in So Ho, New York.  I wish I wasn’t, I miss the mountains already, and even more, I miss my girlfriend,  but it’s just sort of fucked how we can move from one place to another so fast, it’s scary, it’s sort of irresponsible, and I look forward to the day when flying is so expensive we just don’t do it anymore.   Maybe ‘medium’ speed trains are the future, running on some form of clean electric energy.  Hmm, SOLAR?

So here I am now,  on the 11th floor of a Sheraton Hotel.  I’m doing a very last minute gig with the Discovery Channel, something about Adrenaline sports, I don’t really know all the details, just that it’s with some guy named Bear Gryll’s, who I guess is some sort of adventurer turned charismatic TV persona.

The funniest part about all this is that I got picked up at the airport by a limo-driver in a black tinted towncar.  Seriously, I felt like a gangstar, he held a card in his hand that read “TROTTER” and everything,  I was like, YUP, that’s me chief. I didn’t even take off my sunglasses:)  ha ha.  He told me his good stories, of driving Donald Trump around Manhattan, shopping for $20 Million Dollar homes with a lady from Malibu, and rockstars doing lines of coke in the backseat in the late 80′s.  He said things have mellowed out a lot since the golden years,  mostly because of the internet and CD sales are down, so the artists aren’t getting as rich as they used to.   We got to the hotel, and all I had was $20 bucks Canadian crumpled up in my pocket, so I flipped him the bill and thanked him for the ride.   I have to get up at 5am so I’m off to sleep.  Just like the Beastie Boys say,   Yes yes y’all.  And you don’t stop.

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Beers and Blocks!

Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

I just got back from a great trip to Mazama Washington,  if you haven’t been there and you live within a 5 hour drive, GO.  It’s beautiful, climb sport routes in the Methow Valley, jump in the rivers and then have a pint at the end of the day and listen to some good live music in Twisp.  It’s an awesome place, dry, sunny, and stunning.  Here’s a photo taken around beer-thirty so you know what I mean…

I didn’t climb too much, I did try to onsight solo a 5.12, but kept coming down for fear of a suspicious looking hold, but great fun, lots of good little cliffs everywhere and lots more potential.  It’s just fun.  It’s not the Verdon or Ceuse or even Smith Rock, but it’s unique.  Many thanks to FIVE TEN, and the members of ROCKFEST 2011 for having me.  I had a blast!

Finally, for today, here is a clip I was sent of three Squamish locals removing a dangerous rock on Birds of Prey on the Squaw.  It’s a good reminder that just because something is big, does not mean it’s “safe”.  Be cautious out there, and DO NOT drop rocks without doing all the background work necessary,  this group had people on the ground for public safety.   Use the internet, chat rooms, billboards, climbing shops, the works.  PLEASE PLEASE BE SAFE.  Too many close calls that were NOT necessary are behind us, so please use common sense, we’ll all do the same.  Have fun.  Climb ON.   BOO-YA.

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SLC

Friday, June 24th, 2011

I just had a great week in Salt Lake City,  which is hard for me to admit, ha ha,  because I ain’t a city person really, but we spent some time up at beautiful Brighton Ski resort, and then down in town at the Black Diamond headquarters.  Now, I’m the first to admit that I’m a huge dork, and that includes my dorkyness for climbing history and it’s major players.  Whether it happened last week or last decade, a part of me likes knowing what’s helped get us all here today, and by ALL, I mean, everyone.  Sharma and Ondra on 5.15′s, Alex Honnold on 5.12 free solo’s, Tommy Caldwell on El Cap, and that 8 year old kid in Bishop climbing V12 after 6 months in the sport.  Not just the top dogs are effected by our past, everybody, 60 year old men and women who took up climbing after work are crushing 5.12′s, it’s incredible to see.  And when I’m in the presence of climbing’s historic contributors, I get a little like, WHOA!  For example, last night I had drinks with Jonny Woodward, Henry Barber and Russ Clune, now that’s a classy bunch.  In their own class.  I also had the chance to re-connect with Jack Tackle, Peter Metcalf and Kate Rutherford.  So many good climbers, passionate climbers, and great people.  That’s a very cool thing for me, it’s one of the parts of my job that I love the most, meeting the people who have influenced not only myself, but to some level, the entire sport that I most connect with – and most if not all are still crushing as of this very day.  So, anyway, in case you were wondering all those people are rad, and the entire week was a pleasure.  Thanks for having me BD.

On to other things, back in May, I had the chance to travel around the East Coast with Five Ten for a little, TOUR, if you will.  From a Social D concert in Rhode Island to a SoHo slide show, to Burlington, Vermont and even a pitch at the Adirondacks and the near Traps of the Gunks.  It was an awesome trip, wet and rainy, even bought 15 dollar rubber boots, but an awesome trip nonetheless.  Here are a few photographs I took during my travels.  Hope you like them, and keep on keepin on….

The Gunks carrage road, on a foggy day in May.  I think we were the only climbers in the park that day.

A slick VW I saw in New Paltz, NY,  took the guy 1 year to restore it.

A bit of moisture in the air.

Storm clouds a brewing.

My saving grace.  There’s nothing better in the GUNKS than a perfectly placed nut.

Five Ten’s own, Dana Seaton, putting the shoes to stone on a classic 5.8.

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Busy Busy

Sunday, June 19th, 2011

Well, I’ve climbed 5 days in a row now, going on 6 today,  starting to feel tired.  But, I seem to have so much zest for the rock these days, I simply can’t get enough.  Hiking, bouldering, climbing, trad, bolts, I’ve been doing it all, as much as possible.  Finally, after the longest winter of my life.   The highlight of my week so far was a new free climb I opened up on the imposing Pan Wall.  It’s an old aid route called ‘The Edge of Pan’, 5 pitches, 5.8 A3, 1983 and sits quietly below the first summit of the Chief.  It’s a hard wall to get to, steep and with the maximum amount of exposure Squamish provides.  On friday, I went up there with my incredibly selfless friend Chris Weldon and with drink in hand, he belayed me out in space, on the 45 meter crux corner pitch, which, for the record, is one of the single best rock climbs I have ever done, period. Certainly one of the highest quality routes in Squamish.  The climb goes at 5.13-, no easier, no harder, it’s a prime candidate for an onsight because it’s so sustained,  all you need is a decent head on your shoulders and strong legs.  Great shoes and a bit of luck are also highly recommended.  It’s a technical masterpiece and I was lucky to have fired it off under the watchful eyes of my friend Andrew Querner, who shot video of the ascent.   I felt (and still feel) so lucky to be able to nab such a precious climb. Again, one of my all time favorite experiences on the rocks.  Mostly because I wasn’t sure I was going to do it,  I headed up with a rack of tiny gear, lots of small wires and a double rack of C3′s, and triple in some sizes.   My legs were shaking, my mind was uncertain, my feet were aching and my calves were on fire.  It was 8pm, and this was my only chance until August, so I kept inching upwards.  Move by move.  Chris told me later the ascent took about 45 minutes.  I am so lucky.  I am so stoked.  Now, the best thing to do would be a full ground up ascent of the entire route,  one could choose to climb the Apron, or the greater, and most obvious line would be to link in “Never, Never Land” 5.12 directly into the Edge of Pan for a full straight up, top to bottom ascent.  That’s the ultimate.  I hope I can do that when I get back.  Tomorrow I leave for Salt Lake City and the Black Diamond headquarters,  then, to Mazama for a fun festival with Five Ten and a slide show,  then to the Rockies for a month of high altitude Canadian limestone. Aahhh shheeet ya.  Gotta love summertime.

These two pics below, were taken last winter, after I first inspected the line, I brought big guns Willy Stanhope up with me to show him the route, after these snaps were taken my battery died, I never did take a photo of the corner.  But like I said in the comments, new routing is fun.

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Wicked Comp Clip!

Thursday, June 16th, 2011

Check out this awesome clip of the World Cup in Canmore.  They did everything right it seems.  Technical, powerful, colorful and awkward, everything a boulder problem should be,  ha:)   I haven’t competed in years, but the fun they are having makes me want to join in.  Wish I could have been there for this…

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