RAD
Sunday, November 13th, 2011
Even though most of us have seen this, I’m doing it anyway. It’s just SO, SO RAD.
Wide Boys climb Century Crack from chris Alstrin on Vimeo.
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What would tommy do?
Sunday, November 13th, 2011
My fingers are swollen today, the back’s of my knuckles cracked and a little bit bloody, they just hurt all over. I have cuts underneath my fingernails too and my back muscles are aching from jugging rope fatigue syndrome and a bit of dehydration. This rock just requires so much work. It’s like boot camp. Yesterday Will and I hiked up and rappelled into Leo’s highpoint pitch. What an AMAZING position, exposed traversing on underclings and smearing feet. Absolutely terrific climbing. Truly unique. Got a late start yesterday because we spent much of the morning re-booking flights and coordinating with friends. So we had to hike fast. By the time we got up there, a massive set of fog had swept in and literally engulfed us. Visibility was less than 30 feet at times. What an eerie feeling to look down and watch your rope disappear dangling out of sight. We climbed out in the dark and I could hardly make out Will’s headtorch until the summit. It was a cold mission. And just before hiking down, I looked across and saw the headlamps of Tommy Caldwell’s camp.
It made me realize that even though we are getting worked, our efforts are still nothing in comparison to our friend Tommy’s. That man is a true living legend as far as we’re concerned. 4 years on the Dawn Wall and still going very strong. He’s been up on the wall now for 15 days. He’s like a tank. A psychological rhinoceros. I sometimes think back to the heroic efforts of American Icons like Warren Harding, Yvon Chouinard and Royal Robbins just to name a few. Who bravely forged virgin ground in a bold attempt to overcome the unknown and to seek the limits of their endurance. Because taking nine months to scale the Nose for the first time is no easy feet, it must require machine like determination. 50 years after “Batso’s” push, people are doing it in an astonishing sub 3 hours. But that’s the progression of the sport. It’s inevitable. But in this way, Tommy is a modern day American Hard Man.
An icon.
The golden years continue. They are occuring right here, right now. For those of us that just love rock climbing this is the playoffs. Tommy has set his sights on a futuristic objective of previously unclimbed territory, carving his own way up, and has worked unbelievably hard to meet it. Its an electrifying feeling to be able to witness history in the making and it’s this sort of vision that pushes us all to try a little harder, dig a little deeper and give it one more shot. “What would Tommy do?” is becoming a common phrase for Will and I when we feel tired or cold. What would Tomy do keeps us getting up and getting after it everyday. It’s been a long push in the valley for us, nearly 6 weeks now. And we have to dig in again for one more gentlemans effort. Because we all know El Cap isn’t going to climb itself.
What would Tommy do? Check out his facebook page, he’s getting thousands of hits per day, and unlike in the past, today’s technology has made it possible for all of us to join in the journey with him. Go Tommy Go!
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High Pointing!
Friday, November 11th, 2011
First of all, thank you so much for all the support, the great emails, the hello’s in the parking lots, and the comments on the blog.
I know today’s picture is a bit late for this year, but you must forgive me, I live in a van and I’m spending most of my days up on the sharp end on the most terrifying rock climb I’ve ever attempted. I mean, honestly, I can’t remember the last time I backed off a 5.13b. Sure, I’ve fallen off plenty of them, but never actually backed off, like crying for my mommy backed off. But that’s what has happened now, 3 times. I backed off the 4th 5.13a (E7) pitch once, and the 5th Screamer (E8) pitch twice. Below is a great Tom Evans photo from last year, Leo using double ropes on the best rock of the route so far, but still not perfect. Note: the climb is much steeper than this picture portrays.
I can justify this when people say, it takes courage to walk away. But then, at night wrapped up in my sleeping bag in the safety of my van, the route creeps inside my head, I think to myself, what was I so scared of really? Sure Jason fell and hit a ledge that broke his pelvis, sure the rock is fractured and there’s very little protection, sure Leo core shot his rope and sprained his ankles. but really, it’s not like anyone died or anything:) So, each morning I convince Willy to have one more try, which he’s always up for in the spirit of the Brits, and each time we do, we push our highpoint just a little further. We are only 40 feet and one bolt shy from the Screamer anchor now. Yesterday Willy accidentally pulled out the highest of 3 knifeblades on p4 with only his body weight. YIKES! That’s a 5.13a with a no fall situation if I’ve ever seen one. But, still, that’s behind us now, we have to focus on what’s ahead. I think I can work up enough nerve for one more solid attempt. After that, if we make no progress at all, then maybe we’ll find courage in coming down for the season. Until then, we’re still finding inspiration in going up.
I feel that Leo and Jason set a precedent here and I personally think that we have a responsibility to try and match their highpoint. If we rappelled in and pre-inspected the entire route from the very beginning, I think we could have done it by now. But, who cares. This ground up business is where we are having the most fun, the greatest education, the deeper connection. It’s been an enlightening challenge and one of the best months of climbing in my life.
After this weekend, the weather may hold until we absolutely have to leave, which is also Willy’s birthday, Nov 17th. We’ll go back up, and face our demons, please wish us luck. Until then, I hope you all had a great holloween. I know I did.
Picture by Paul Bride.
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A diverse state
Sunday, November 6th, 2011
Much like B.C is in Canada, I find California to be in the USA, diverse. High mountains, low deserts, big sky, big ocean.
After the second rest day in a cold wet Yosemite Valley, we made an impulsive decision to pack up and leave. We are now in Santa Cruz, California, and I’m not exactly sure why. I suppose we had nowhere else to go really. I’ve always wanted to see it here, not to mention my friend Mr.Sharma was born here (which explains a lot::)) We rented cruiser bikes yesterday and rode around the Piers like the locals do, we watched a foggy surf competition, we ate cheap but decent Mexican food, and like a tourist, I bought Lydia an adorable little dress on Pacific Ave. Then we hit the bars. Hard. This morning Will and I awoke with the bitter taste of regret on our tongues – but, lucky for us, today is a new day, a new beginning and it’s time to make it right again.
In just a few minutes after Will is finished his coffee, we’ll take a drive up to the sandstone boulders of Castle Rock, but it’ is supposed to rain all day, I guess we’ll see if we can’t get any climbing in. Wish us luck. Tomorrow, if the forecast splits like it’s supposed to, then we’ll drive back in the morning to the big ditch, and wait for things to dry, if they do, miraculously, we we’ll begin a hopeful attempt on the Prophet. That’s the rough plan anyway. The crux, is that this climb lives right in between two waterfalls. With so much snow on the summit, this might be a wash for us. Oh well, we can always belay Tommy if he needs it, and come back next year. I have a feeling El Cap isn’t going anywhere too quickly. Just like in Surfing, climbing is condition dependent, you take what you get and you LOVE IT. Even if that means a trip to the coast.
These aren’t my photo’s, but you get an idea of what both places are about right now.
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Happy Birthday Maia!
Friday, November 4th, 2011
It’s my sister’s birthday today. Yahoooooooo! We love you Maia. Here’s to a wonderful day to be born. A picture from Yosemite Valley for you. I hope you have an amazing Weekend too. Big Hugs from a chilly California:)
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Exciting Times!
Thursday, November 3rd, 2011
I feel a little high tonight, light on my feet. There’s a hot fire burning in the Curry Village family room, I’m wrapped up in a down sweater, swilling Cobra’s with big Willy. I just got a text from my friend Tommy Caldwell who came desperately close to sending pitch 12 of the Dawn Wall. We got a great word of encouragement from the man Leo who says “be safe, not scared”, (respect to that) and just had dinner with Mr.Honnold, his lovely lady Stacey and our buddy Ben Ditto from the East Side. It’s an exciting time here in Yosemite Valley.
Will and I got up this morning expecting an overcast sky, snow swirling around like confetti, but all’s we got was a big blue roof. We packed up, hiked up and climbed up the wall. We walked under Tommy and his base camp in the sky. It’s otherwordly up there. We decided to haul up the port-a-ledge and get it ready for our own hopeful push and brought along our friend Paul Bride for fun pics and morale.
This was our third time ground up, and each time we do we pull our ropes and re-lead to our highpoint, this may be pointless for some, but means something to us. Paul jugged up behind us, to capture our mini breakthroughs, with a bit of guidance from Leo I discovered his way out left of the ‘marginal’ belay. No chalk, no boot rubber, no sign of any gear above. With some crumbly rock under my shoes, I embarked on a personal journey of insecure movement, nervously waiting for the “committing move to a good edge and a small bomber cam with big relief”. I went up, then down, up, then down, up, then down, and finally after a million times in and out of my chalk bag, I went up, and up again. Breathing well, I pulled into the corner and got some gear. After some easier moves on surprisingly hollow rock, I gained a sloping shelf that took me to the belay. A feeling of pride fell over me. Although not physically very hard, (the pitch is 5.13aR) it was psychologically rewarding. Even more so than most climbs I have ever done, especially the harder pre-rehearsed ones. That’s the feeling I think Leo was trying to preserve with his attempt, the same thing John Bachar fought for all those years. The unknown. The unpredictable. Even though Houlding and Pickles pointed the way up, I was still on my own, and thus, proud of myself. And that sensation is exciting. I’m not often proud of myself. I’m content with myself, but not always proud. Much of the time, I take the easy way when given the chance, sometimes I regret it, other times I don’t. But I’m glad we haven’t robbed ourselves of this experience by rappelling down all the way, at least not yet – ha ha ha ha. I’m glad we are trying. It’s a meaningless invisible line, and yet, to us, right now, it’s as real and dense as the stone we’re climbing on.
Shortly after this, Willy climbed up to meet me with a bright light in his eye and a grin on his face. We were making steady progress, but the storm blew overhead before we could celebrate and thus retreated, but better prepared for the next time around. It’s now raining on the roof, and that will turn to snow tonight. How much, time will tell.
Tommy is still up on the wall, he’s the toughest man alive. PERIOD. Brett and Josh from Big Up are there as well to capture the magic, and Becca his wife is playing the role of worlds greatest belayer, and playing it better than anyone. He’ll be climbing again on Saturday, we wish him luck, but then again, he doesn’t need it, he’s got strength, optimism and determination. Alex is going for another speed record on the Nose with Hans next week, they were 45 seconds shy of the record this week, and that only adds to the excitement of their smashing upcoming bid.
I think that’s it for now. Just wanted to get that off my chest. Hope you’re all just crushing it.
Sonnie.
Below, my hero at 7:30am, a well rested Stanhope, with a pillow case that reads, “follow your dreams”
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Fun in the sun! But not for long….
Wednesday, November 2nd, 2011
A couple of sorry looking dudes. Here, Canadian Photographer Paul Bride grabbed a terrific shot of both Willy and I stressing about the broken foothold on the Devils Dyno pitch. Luckily, we solved the problem the next try and it didn’t change a thing.
TOMORROWS FORECAST.
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Cement Truck!
Sunday, October 30th, 2011
Greetings.
To read about our skydiving mission, click here.
To read about our Prophet Mission, scroll down.
For anyone who follows this, here’s another very brief recap. We just got down off the wall after spending 4 days up there getting worked by very hard, powerful and insecure climbing. I will report more soon, but here’s the gist of it because my computer is going to die. I accidentally sent the A1 Beauty pitch on Top rope on my first try since going back up, that was fun, Will made a HUGE link and we’re no longer scared of sending it. We solved the Final Defence boulder problem on the last pitch (V8/5.13b R) and took that to the top of the wall. Slept. We rapped down and tried the Devils Dyno Pitch. Failed. Got really worked. It’s very much a proper dyno. I managed to solve a sequence down lower crimping on the footholds but it’s like a hard V10/11 sequence, not exactly recommended, and I’m not sure I can fully pull it off, but if I can, I will be thrilled, they are some of the cooler moves I have ever done. The next day, Will dug deeper than ever and after about 20 tries, latched the dyno across. It was amazing to see. Perhaps I’ll try it again after all. I feel he’ll be able to do it more consistently now that he’s familiar with it. I may stick to my V10 bloc because I have faith I can send it that way. After that there is another very hard move getting across the corner and onto the face, a very wide stretch and no feet. The feet we did have to use I broke off. ARGH. That’s the problem with the east side of El Cap, it’s friable. It’s going to be much harder now. Which I am not exactly excited about, ha ha ha, because to be frank, the last thing we need is “much” harder now 
We did all the moves on the Guillotine pitch on our first try, which was nice, but we have not accounted for the 25 foot runouts, the terrifyingly loose flakes, the potential 60 foot falls or the pump in our arms. But we remain confident. We don’t want to go any lower than this on rappel, we’d like to try ground upping it for the first 7 pitches and top down on the upper 6 pitches. In an ideal world. GRIN. But then again, you can’t climb the prophet if you’re broke or dead, so we shall see what happens next. We feel like a we’ve been hit by a cement truck today. What a climb. What a battle. What a position. What an experience. I originally only wanted to use this climb as a training route, to get into some kind of shape for my winter road trip, but now, as the ends comes near, I really, really want to finish it. It’s quite amazing. And it’s so rewarding to try something so, so daunting. Here’s the breakdown in case you missed it. 5.12bR, 5.12bR, 5.11dX, 5.13aR, 5.13bR, 5.13bR, 5.12bR, 5.13bR, 5.13cR, 5.12bR, 5.13dR, 5.12bR, 5.13bR. Leo and Jason have left a mark with this one:) Happy climbing!
Willy on the A1 Beauty Pitch. The Best rock on the route by far, but not necessarily the best climbing, it’s all so good how does one choose?
Will again on the Final Defence heading across the slippery slabs.
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Kwik Klips!
Tuesday, October 25th, 2011
We’re in Lake Tahoe today, again, it was time for another long stretch of rest and this place is just so chiiiillllllll, not to mention downright beautiful! Our Canadian friend Paul Bride flies in tonight so we pick him up in Scaremento before heading back. I think we’ll do 3 or 4 days rest before getting back at ‘er. Willy has to leave on Novemeber 8th, so that only gives us about 8 or 9 climbing days left on this mission. Which will go faster than we think. So until then, I thought I might leave you with a few quick clips. These are two video’s we made for the Five Ten blog, just a quick hit of Will Stanhope (aka, Billy Stamper) trying the Arch project in Squamish, and one of me doing an Arrowhead climbing shoe Product Review in Pemberton Valley, BC. There’s a bit of climbing in there as well. Check them out. Have a truly spectacular day….
The Arch Project from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.
Arrowhead Profile in Pemby! from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.
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