Sonnie Trotter

tiny increments

Sunday, October 23rd, 2011

Yosemite continues to amaze, as does the Prophet.  Its climbing although often loose, is exceptional.  It’s exposure is brilliant.  It’s challenges are constant.  From where I left off last time, Will and I decided to start climbing from the ground up,  the way Leo had.  The only difference between our attempts and Leo’s is that we have some idea of where we are going, we also know that someone (not an aid climber) has been there before, and succeeded, so the experience is quite a bit different, but no doubt exhilarating.  We were on the wall by 7am on Tues, I lead the first two opening pitches of 5.12b, R.  Then Will pushed past his high point on the 3rd pitch, 5.11d X, which if you’re in Eldorado, Colorado translates to very, very serious.  After that, I had a 5.13a R pitch.  I made it halfway until I hit the “marginal” belay.  A large skinny flake with three knifeblades stuffed behind it and a mashy, all tied off and equalized.  From here, under the blinding mid-afternoon sun, I literally had no idea which way to go, there were 3 options, all of them runout, and I was not about to cast off into an ocean of questionable possibilities (not to mention rock quality) with this so called “anchor” as my only gear.  I am no longer 21, I am 31, and married.  ha ha ha.  I very happily retreated and will continue up another day, hopefully under less intense skies and cooler temps.

After one rest day we hiked back up to the top to try the A1 Beauty pitch.  One of the best I have EVER seen.  We each tried it twice and made some great progress.  I reckon I’ll try leading it pretty soon.  Will has an easier time at the beginning which is a burly fingery crack climbing boulder problem equal to a hard V8 in the buttermilks – and I seem to have an easier time with the ending, which is not as powerful but very sustained.  I am feeling more and more confident with the ending section, so all’s I really have to do now is get ultra fierce with the opening sequence, I can do it, but it’s not easy.   All in all, we are having a BLAST.  The very last pitch is wicked hard as well, solid 5.13b R.  We have yet to link that either.  Tim Emmett came up one night to lift our spirits and pour us a drink of Jim Bean.  It was sad to see him leave, but like everything Tim does, he always leaves with style.

Well, that’s all I have to report for now, progress on a rock this big is usually measured in tiny increments and we are enjoying every step along the way.  All’s I can say is that we are climbing safely (relatively) and getting stronger every day.  Happy Rocktober.

Uncle Willy on the east ledges.

Glorious half dome from Curry Village.

Base camp in the SKY.

Peeking through the bushes where the Prophet tops out.

More coffee.

A changing of the seasons, places and faces.

A splash of light.

Half Dome’s cheeky backside.

Rapping in on A1 Beauty Pitch pre-dawn.

A book, a dream and a therm-a-rest.

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A Humbling Monster

Tuesday, October 18th, 2011

Well the rumors are true, El Cap is a humbling monster.  It’s big, it’s steep, it’s slick, it’s sharp, it’s hot, it’s cold.  Luckily, we ain’t here just to “conquer” the rock, weez here to push our context of reality, find deeper meaning in this crazy world, and drink some ice cold wobbly pops in the beautiful meadow.

Last weekend, after only 5 days of climbing, Will and I needed to escape, my legs were tired of hiking, my elbows flared up from jugging, and Will was getting over a weird stomach bug, so we kicked it to Tahoe for a couple of days.  Along the way up north we pulled over in Bridgeport on the East Side and had ourselves a few cocktails at the local Saloon.  I met a retired man there who was out for the fall fishing.  He had a bit of a belly, a comb over, a plaid shirt and a big enlightened grin on his face, I liked him immediately.  As you do on the bar stool, we shared stories about ourselves.  At one point with a cheeky smirk he leaned forward and whispered, “Listen, I LOVE my wife, and I miss her, we do many great things together, but fishing isn’t one of them” and then he continued, “you know, I’m not really here for the fish anyway”.  I love my wife too, and we do many things together as well, including climbing, but I think I did know what he was saying,  Fishing was just the excuse to travel a bit, clear his mind and see the world from a different perspective, the Sierra’s are absolutely jaw dropping.  Perhaps it’s the same reason why we climb these massive cliffs?  It’s not about the bike.  Overpriced Bourbon never tasted so good.

So, we get into South Tahoe the next day, and it’s rad, chill bro, tranquilo, like so chill we didn’t even do anything.

After some R and R, an oil change and a new US 395 T-shirt, we are back in the Valley.

Yesterday Stanhope and I went from the ground up on the Prophet, to inspect those initial terrifying pitches. 12bR, 12bR, 11dX.  Will then said “you know what’s cool?  we might actually be the only other people on the planet to free these pitches”.  That was a cool thought.  Then we rapped off and guzzled 3 liters of water.  After those first 3 pitches, it really kicks back.  This is a slow progress process.  We want to enjoy it.  We want to be safe. And we want to feel strong.  It’s too easy to want to push it everyday and then flame out.  It’s harder to approach it with patience and diligence.  The problem then lies in time, something we may very likely run out of.  But that’s not our concern at this point in the game.  Our concern right now is taking a 50 foot tall onto a marginal belay or an expanding flake.  Our concern is getting shut down by super tech granite moves that Leo is especially gifted at.  Our concern is wimping out on the Devils Dyno, if we ever get to it. But hey, like Mr.Houlding himself once said, “if it was easy, it wouldn’t be hard would it?”

Until next time…

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Thankful

Tuesday, October 11th, 2011

As Canucks, Will Stanhope and I spent Thanksgiving up on the big stone, eating Mac and Cheese and getting harassed by beady eyed ring tailed cats.  We drank Scotch under the stars, smoked a stogie, and listened to The Tragically Hip on the ipod.  Frankly, and not to sound too soulful,  it was one of the most peaceful couple of days I’ve had since my honeymoon.  When the full darkness of night finally sets in and you look out over the expanse, you can see headlamps spread out from the bottom of the Valley floor all the way up to the rim, and along the parks entire length.  They look just as enchanting as the stars in the sky and you know there is plenty of adventure happening all around.  Oddly, that’s a comforting feeling for me.  This place is HUGE.  Click image below.

Twice we rapped in on the Prophet and tried the A1 Beauty pitch, (No 13 on the 14 pitch climb).  It’s a horrendously thin left leaning crack, and the feet are so atrocious, it may as well be overhanging.   During three hefty burns each, we worked out the desperate moves on the seam, but have failed to make any substantial links.  The only section we haven’t tried are the long powerful pulls towards the anchor.  That’s when the gear, as well as the feet, run out for good, and the only thing that will get a leader to the top is pure momentum.  Hesitate for a second and you’re off, back down to that razor sharp arete you spent the last 20 minutes trying to get to.  It’s an exhausting pitch, alluring, terrifying, and exciting.

If you have never read Leo Houlding’s account of his and Jason Pickles route, the Prophet, in Rock and Ice issue #192,  then run (don’t walk) and get a copy from the magazine, or from a friend.  It is by far and away one of the best pieces of climbing literature written in the last few years.  The film by Posing Productions is also one of the best rock documentaries on the shelf, but as so often the case, the internal dialogue is possibly more gripping than the real life footage.  His writing (like his climbing) is far from cliche, he has original thoughts and ideas and he expresses them with humor and a no bullshit attitude. This is definitely a hero worshiping blog post, make no mistake, but if you’ve ever wondered what makes one of the boldest climbers of the last decade and half tick, then read this article.  You’ll put it down knowing what separates Leo from most climbers.  The story is an honest look at his career development, his ideals, and his real deal struggle to climb what he says “may be the hardest thing he’s ever done”!  “We had no choice. Jason and I are neither cowards, nor fools, yet once again we flirted with the line that Bridwell had warned me of all those years before”.  This is one of many favorite quotes.  It’s a story about pushing his own personal limits, and creating his own little piece of history and if that’s not a story worth reading – I don’t know what is.

When talking to Leo via email today, he asks Will our opinion on the grade and says he called it “5.13d R, Old School”.  Will and I wholeheartedly agree.  There is nothing soft about it.  This is not your typical 13d, coming from one of the greatest granite technicians of this generation.  We’ll go back tomorrow and have another stab at it, but we have to be careful about project fever, we can’t get too wrapped up on one pitch otherwise we lose sight of what’s around us and may even lose motivation.  On something so big and serious, success is measured in small increments, we need to keep it fresh, that’s the idea anyway.

Now as the holiday weekend has passed, I reflect on what I’m grateful for, and happily it’s always the same, my family for their constant love and support, my incredible and incredibly gorgeous wife for too many reasons to list, my friends for always giving me a hard time, and for the wild and natural places of the world, which moves many to keep daring, dreaming and screaming with joy.

Hope you like the pictures.  Click to enlarge.  God speed.

Crossing the boarder like a boss.

A stop over in Portland OR, to get some local coffee, imported from local countries, served by local people.

Stir crazy after 15 hours, but getting stoked to drop into to Cali town.

A sight that never gets old, even though we do.

Not a minute to spare, coiling my new Sterling 300 foot static cord for the big hike.

Day one, the calm before the storm, but still stoked.

The never disappointing Half Dome, always framed perfectly by the surrounding landscape.

By the way, ike many folks, I have to hustle a living anyway I can, so please keep in mind that all my images are for sale at a very reasonable price if you’d like a print!  winky face, smiley face:)

Coffee.  Because you can’t put a price on morale.

A frosty morning in the meadow.

The Valley is a place of extreme’s, cold nights, hot rays, delicate plants and sharp blocky rocks.

Will sitting out a little gut rot, possibly from the river water, but like a rock star, still eager to get after it.

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Oct 4 ever

Thursday, October 6th, 2011

Oct 2011.  The Endless Summer is a CLASSIC surf film of the 1970’s, the name says it all – chasing waves, bikinis, and that golden kissed skin, barrel after barrel, day after day, for all eternity.

But for a climber, I mean, a real down deep in the guts type of climber with scars on their knuckles, an ache in their elbow and dirt under their skin, October might be a more appropriate month.  The nights are cool which provide a most satisfying sleep, (ideally snuggled up to a loved one) but sometimes a grumpy and disheveled big wall partner will have to do.  The days are bright, often sunny with the occasional shower and crisp, nearly to the point of numbing tips.

Fact:  On days like these, the body can perform at a higher level, the heat won’t melt away our mojo, or our skin for that matter.  On the flipside, the cold won’t chatter away our reserves into a blue lipped oblivion.  These are the days that attract climbers from all over the globe to climb in Yosemite National Park every year.  And this season, I am no exception.

Rain falls today, but the forecast is calling for sun, and lots of it.   Egg yokes across the board.   I’m here with fellow Canadian Will Stanhope.  Willy is a comedian trapped in a climbers body.  He has a deep obsession for climbing, and a nearly fearless approach to it, but he’ll never stop cracking jokes.  His steel fingers dig deep when they need to, and his light frame and long arms only help the cause of getting up fierce cliffs with quickness and control.

“Life is too important to be taken seriously” he’ll say, over a smoky flavored scotch.

We are here to try our luck on El Capitan, my first time ever.  Inspired by Leo Houlding’s 9 year quest to free one of the most amazing new routes the World has ever seen, Willy and I have chosen to inspect The Prophet 5.13d, as a potential route for us.  Unfortunately, the day we arrived a cold black cloud engulfed the Valley and left everyone running for a warm place to hide.  Tomorrow is a new day, clear skies and 60 degrees.  I have my bag packed, and my fingers crossed.

I hope October never ends.

NOTE: The above is NOT my picture.

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NY Update

Thursday, September 8th, 2011

Thank you for all the encouraging comments from the last post.  I know some people say marriage doesn’t change the relationship much, but those words often come from people who aren’t yet married.  I think it’s changed and it’s even better than I could have imagined.  So, a quick update on NYC, Even with the gale force wind gusts, and the pouring rain, New York has treated us well again.  Lydia (a small town girl who loves big gardens and lots of free space) has said that she didn’t think she would like it here, but the city has a certain charm, you can eat every different type of food from every different region of the world, and you can see every single walk of life along the way.  It also seems that anybody who wants to be anybody in the entertainment industry, has to prove themselves here, so there is a major talent pool of artists, comedians, musicians and creators.  It really is an exciting place to visit.

MoMa proves that anything is art if it’s placed in a white room.

The real reason I’m here however is to help patagonia promote the launch of their new Common Threads Initiative program.  Partnering with the mega giant ebay, patagonia has created a first among retailers, a USED gear online store front.  Basically, patagonia is going to piggy back the infrastructure that ebay has created to promote the buying and selling of used patagonia clothing.  The idea is that they don’t want you to buy a new jacket, or sweater unless you absolutely have to.  It’s one step closer for us as a society to start thinking more critically about what we purchase, where it comes from, how long it’s life span is, and ultimately where it ends up at the end of that life.  Perhaps a landfill you can see from outer space?  A recycling program that breaks down material and builds it into new clothing?  Or maybe you hand it down to your son or daughter, or sell it to a perfectly decent stranger on line so that they can buy the best quality made product for their own adventures at a discounted price.  Is patagonia losing sales by telling their customers not to buy new?  Who knows, they certainly aren’t profiting a single penny from this new and visionary initiative, but it’s a small step in shifting our consumerism mentality, and that alone is a winning attitude.  Yvon Chouinard once said that every time he tried to do something good for people and the environment, it was a successful venture.  This, like patagonia as a whole, is simply an experiment, may it inspire us all.

On that note, they have asked me to donate a jacket.  I thought about a jacket that meant something to me, a jacket that had a story, and so I chose to donate my favorite Down Sweater full zip with a hoody.  Tommy Caldwell and I each brought one of these jackets up on our latest route on the Diamond Face on Mount Louie, in the Canadian Rockies.  It’s called ‘The Shining’ and is one of my all time favorite first ascents, not only for the quality of the rock, or the aesthetics of the line, but for the experience that Tommy and I shared, through snow storms, hail, wind, fog and sun, it’s position alone will make it a classic climb for decades.  If you’re in the market for a lightweight down sweater, check it out on the ebay site. Or navigate there from the patagonia home page.  You’ll find lots of amazing used garments, some from legendary climber Rick Ridgeway, and others from bad asses like SLC’s Brittany Griffith. So get on with it already, click on the image below and begin surfing.  It’s fun.  Happy climbing.

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the greatest knot I ever tied

Monday, September 5th, 2011

Well, as it should happen, I’m in New York again.  For someone who is not especially fond of big city’s, I do find myself in the big apple quite a few times a year.  Lucky for me, NYC is a very nice city, and I do enjoy my short visits very much.

I haven’t been taking lots of pictures lately, or climbing that much this month, I spent the last three weeks getting hitched and spending all of my spare time with family and friends and my beautiful wife Lydia.  I did manage to squeak out an article for Rock and Ice, along with Tommy Caldwell, it was my first co-authoring experience and so far, it’s mega fun, it should be coming out Oct 15th.  More on that later.

In honor of my absence from the scene, and the spray, ha ha, I’d like to post some new/old pictures, one is of our recent wedding day.  Originally, I wasn’t going to, because, well, I wanted to keep them between loved ones, but then I thought, what the hell – what’s not to love about the climbing community?   And because admittingly, I am the luckiest guy I have ever known, seriously, that might sound arrogant or whatever, but screw it, what can I say, I’m a proud husband.  I don’t know how I did it, but somehow I convinced this darling angel to commit the rest of her life to me, and to us.  I won’t get too deeply into it, but getting married to this woman is without question the best send of my life.

Speaking of photographs, and Lydia Zamorano, here is a small collection of pictures I took at random this year with my new Sigma fisheye lens.  The fisheye is a very, very fun lens, maybe too fun, you end up wanting to take lots of pics with it, but you can’t overdo it, it will actually get old, trust me, so I have found more comfort in using it like a specialty lens, like a macro, there’s a time and place for it, and when a shot works it works.  I really like the yoga perspective, taken from Lydia’s studio during one of her practices, and the others are of her and her brother Gabe climbing up the Squamish Buttress, 5.10c.  Just a different perspective I guess.  Notice my shirt in the first picture, bottom left corner, this lens is WIDE.   Hope you enjoy them.  Peace out.

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An Embarrassing Memory!

Tuesday, August 16th, 2011

When people ask me when I fell in love with climbing, I say I was about 16 years old (a little late for today’s standards) but then my mom sent me this picture in the mail yesterday, and it occurred to me, maybe I’ve been in love with climbing for a lot longer than I thought!

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A few pics!

Thursday, August 11th, 2011

Two days in a row,  I’m on a roll.  Here are just some pics from my last day of climbing with Jeremy Smith.  Fun times, (before my gear ripped anyway).  Got to extend a huge thanks to Jer for such a great day, and one of the best catches I can remember.  We climbed a 7 pitch 5.12 called Never Never Land.   Then tried to link it into the Edge of Pan, also, 7 pitches if  you do it from Pan Tease.   It’s like Multi-Level-Cragging up there.  Big fun.

Jeremy entering the Guillotine crux 5.12 which he gracefully onsighted.

Jeremy following the endless slab pitch, 50 meters of 5.11+.  Golden.

Jeremy traversing the slabs below the Pan Tease corner.  A bit of route finding skills are recommended up there, but Pan Tease is a VERY excellent route as well and a tremendous way to finish Never Never Land.

Smith doing a hand traverse – this bit of climbing links the striking corner of Pan Tease, into the even more striking corner of Edge of Pan.  Looking forward to getting back up there.  Today I am filming a Canadian TV show called Restless Josie, I am taking her climbing, and we’re going to have some fun at Murrin Rock.  Then it’s back to the usual for me.

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Keeping Up

Wednesday, August 10th, 2011

I just can’t seem to keep up with myself these days.  One day I’m in the Canadian Rockies, the next in Salt Lake City, the next I’m connecting through L.A. and then flying over Yosemite Valley, which may be a bit of foreshadowing as I’ll be spending 6 weeks there this fall.  Even from 30,000 feet and with a wing in the way, you can still make out the Nose and Half Dome, as clear as day.  Check out this picture I took below. Click to enlarge.  Hope you like it.  I think it’s pretty sick if I do say so myself.

Hmm,  Media Stuff.  So, I guess I was on the cover of the Patagonia Catalog in Europe this Spring,  so that’s kinda cool and they also used a Ben Ditto Image from last year of me falling off Evilution Direct, V12, right before I sent it.  A very cool shot.  Ben is so RAD.  Hmmm, what else, oh yah, I guess an article I wrote for Alpinist just came out, I haven’t seen it yet, but people have said some really nice things to me, so that must mean they are lying,  ha ha, but Paul Bride did all the photo’s and those I know for sure are amazing.  I did see the article in the latest Gripped about mine and Ben Moon’s route from last year we nick-named the Butt-Face.  It’s really called the Squamish Buttress, North-Face-Variation.  But call it what you want, it’s 5.9, and a fun little scramble up the big rocks.  Also, please stay roped up until you’re on top, I goofed on the topograph.

A Keith Ladzinski photo, also SUPER SUPER RAD guy.

Anyway, I just really want you all to know that I have been climbing my ass off lately, and feeling stronger, fitter and having more fun than I have had in years, there’s some really cool stuff coming down the pipe, lots of new routes for me, a big day with TC on the Diamond Face, a long free route here in Squamish, I took a 50 footer yesterday and ripped 7 pieces of gear.  This thing might need a bolt.  Hmmmmmm.  Any thoughts out there?   I much prefer no bolts when I can, but there is a time and place for everything, and certain things make certain amount of sense,  this is starting to make more and more sense to me.  Other than that, I am planning my wedding with my beautiful fiance Lydia, and living in my van full time with her.  We are free birds these days, it’s a good feeling.  Less bullshit, more rock climbing.  Happy August to all.

Here’s a pic of Lydia and the DreamBoat in Levenworth, WA.

and here’s a great shot of the van after I finished the building process, took me 3 long hard days, but there’s enough room to still do yoga on the floor, even for my 6 foot long carcass.  BTW, It looks much more lived in now.  Ahhhh, home sweet home.

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Yes Man!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Fist of all, I’m sorry it’s been a while.  Honestly, I have no real excuse other than I’ve been rock climbing a LOT, traveling some, basically, just trying to soak up as much summer love as possible.  It was a hard winter and now it’s on and there’s  no time for the intraweb.

Ever see YES man, that movie with Jim Carrey?  That’s how I feel sometimes.  I’m considered a professional climber because that’s my chosen field and that’s what I love to do, and somehow, that’s how I’ve managed to hustle a living.  But effectively, I am also running my own business.  I’m self employed, and for those who know, when you’re self employed and you have bills to pay, and you don’t know when the next job is coming,  you say YES to everything.   You become a yes man.  Working overtime.  Whatever it takes to make it happen.  It’s only until things settle down and work becomes more predictable that you learn to say no to anything.  But I’m not sure (given my chosen lifestyle) when that predictability will arrive.  So for now, and since I can remember, I’ve been a yes man of sorts.

Yesterday I was in the most heavenly place on earth, (no, not Squamish) Lake Louise, Alberta.  I was out there in the sun, and mixed cloud, climbing with Lydia, getting pumped, clipping bolts, it was awesome.  There’s a new 5.13c/d there for anyone interested, it’s to the right of Jason Lives and it’s actually REALLY good value.  Here’s a photo I took in the meadow on route to the climbing.

And today, like a time warp, I am back in So Ho, New York.  I wish I wasn’t, I miss the mountains already, and even more, I miss my girlfriend,  but it’s just sort of fucked how we can move from one place to another so fast, it’s scary, it’s sort of irresponsible, and I look forward to the day when flying is so expensive we just don’t do it anymore.   Maybe ‘medium’ speed trains are the future, running on some form of clean electric energy.  Hmm, SOLAR?

So here I am now,  on the 11th floor of a Sheraton Hotel.  I’m doing a very last minute gig with the Discovery Channel, something about Adrenaline sports, I don’t really know all the details, just that it’s with some guy named Bear Gryll’s, who I guess is some sort of adventurer turned charismatic TV persona.

The funniest part about all this is that I got picked up at the airport by a limo-driver in a black tinted towncar.  Seriously, I felt like a gangstar, he held a card in his hand that read “TROTTER” and everything,  I was like, YUP, that’s me chief. I didn’t even take off my sunglasses:)  ha ha.  He told me his good stories, of driving Donald Trump around Manhattan, shopping for $20 Million Dollar homes with a lady from Malibu, and rockstars doing lines of coke in the backseat in the late 80’s.  He said things have mellowed out a lot since the golden years,  mostly because of the internet and CD sales are down, so the artists aren’t getting as rich as they used to.   We got to the hotel, and all I had was $20 bucks Canadian crumpled up in my pocket, so I flipped him the bill and thanked him for the ride.   I have to get up at 5am so I’m off to sleep.  Just like the Beastie Boys say,   Yes yes y’all.  And you don’t stop.

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