Friday, September 14th, 2012
Well, it’s nearly halfway through Sept and I haven’t been very active on the blogging front. I must apologize (especially for those looking to read some freshness from the Squamish front). But sometimes, life is just too busy to spray about it:) But today, I’m making a little time before I head out again. I’m going to do a big dump today because I’ll be leaving on the road again for Seattle, WA tomorrow and I don’t think I’ll have much time for the interbox.
Hmm, where to start, well…I went to Ontario to see my family for a week, which was a pleasant escape. Played with the sisters kids, had long breakfasts with the folks, and put in a day or two of work on the family farm. Here’s my hero (aka Dad) and I after cutting down an old and dangerous tree.
I recently bolted and sent a cool new project in Furry Creek, it’s one of the best new sport routes I’ve ever done and I called it, the Battle of Evermore. 5.14 – it’s got some of the most bizarre moves on it, fingers locks, knee bars, hand jams, crimps, pinches and double heel hooks. The whole route is capped by a leap for a jug at the lip. Even Tony Yaniro himself could not have created such a wild mixture of body positions and handholds. It’s one of those climbs that you just can’t even believe exists. I may go as far as to call it a masterpiece. ha ha ha ha.
Other than that, I have added a few new lines up on the Prow Wall, including the Masher Crack with Jesse Huey, which now connects into the Power of Yesterday from the ground, producing an outrageous 7 pitch 5.13c, and if you go right (into the Gold Rush finish), it’s 5.12a A0/5.13a. What a spectacular place to climb. I can only hope more and more people will start to venture up into this area. The rock is literally like gold. It’s steep and clean and has some brilliant exposure. Our generation is blessed to have been left with this wall to explore. Below is Jesse Huey, before, on, and after the Masher crack.
Although Jesse “the Smasher” Huey got rocked on his first attempt, he did stroll through it on his second try. He said “Layback is Payback” ha!
Like I said earlier, it’s been a really busy summer. Almost too busy. But that’s what happens when you have an obsession like we do. There’s just never enough time to do it all. However, I did make time for a couple of annual visits to the beautiful Rocky Mountains and I did climb a new route in Lake Louise with Derek Galloway and my wife Lydia. I’ve had my eye on this route forever. Hoping for a sweet 5.13 multi-pitch arete, instead we got a sweet 5.11c face climb. Derek and I did all the bolting, then Derek went back by himself to pry off a very dangerous block with a car jack. What a bad-ass. Then, my wife and I came back for the free ascent, with Derek’s blessing and encouragement of course:) The route goes at 5.11a, 5.11b, 5.11c. All quartzite blissfullness. We called it, ‘Fools in the Rain’ because we got caught in a few thunderstorms and Lydia sent the crux pitch in an ice cold shower, hanging on tiny crimpers until the rain stopped and the sun came out to dry the holds again. It was truly impressive, as it took about 15 minutes before she could climb again, but she refused to let go and blow the onsight. Now that’s passion. See pics below. If only Mount Temple (in the background) were a more beautiful mountain. Oh well.
Galloway getting pumped for a new route adventure.
Derek hanging 10 on the Saddleback.
Lydia cruising the first pitch, which is almost 50 meters.
A water break after the second pitch. Below is the outstanding third pitch.
LASTLY, I’ll leave you with some images from the Nesakwatch Range with Jimmy Martinello. We went up to attempt a new free route, but unfortunately, the weather came in and we hiked down the next day. But truth be told, the climbing is gravy. When you’re up there in such a heavenly place, climbing a few pitches really doesn’t matter that much, although it would be nice, it’s just the gravy on top of an already incredible experience, so we didn’t feel too bad about it. Besides, it’s still going to be there next year. If you haven’t been in here and you’re in the lower mainland of Vancouver, you have no excuse, go, you’ll be highly rewarded. See what I mean…
Jimmy on the 3-4 hour approach.
Top of the world.
Bugaboo’s quality Granite. In Chilliwack, what?
Melting snow with Mount Slesse in the background. “The Beauty Queen of the north Cascades” Fred Beckey.
Morning chill. The clouds never burned off and we made our way down after some ghetto coffee.
AND FINALLY… LYDIA AND I HAD OUR ONE YEAR ANNIVERSARY. So stoked. And still living in our van. ha ha ha:)
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