BIO
LIFE’S A TRIP
The first time I ever tied into a rope was at an outdoor festival in Toronto called the CNE. I was almost 16 years old. Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym set up an artificial wall for spectators, tourists and little punks like myself trying to blow off some steam. Since my sisters had gone on all the rides and I wasn’t in the mood for roller coasting – I decided to try a stout overhanging wall dubbed, ‘K2′. With each grip I felt more and more alone and only when I reached the top did I realize how high I was. I’ve been chasing that high ever since.
Upon graduation, I hit the open road for the rocky mountains of Colorado. I don’t think I’ve been home for more than two or three months ever since. Although I love and miss my family greatly, I will never regret leaving behind the suburban sprawl of southern Ontario to explore a world of uncertainty, a world of great character, raw beauty and individual expression.
During the short days of long winter months I have a habit of migrating towards warmer climates to climb, camp and chase the endless summer. I’m not one to go on ‘vacation’ in the traditional sense, instead, I try to immerse myself in the places I go, and stay for extended periods of time, one month is good if you want to get to know a place, but three is better. Some of my favorite places to explore are Mexico, France, Spain, Malta, Australia and India, to name a few.
In addition, starting in 1997, I’ve spent many years living and touring the big FIVE-O, from Texas to Oregon, New York to California, Hawaii to Alaska and back again. In 2002 I escaped on a five-month Coast to Coast trip across Canada. My goal was to spend as little money as possible (because honestly, I didn’t have any) while visiting each and every significant climbing area and small town along the way, from Halifax to Victoria. I read somewhere that life is a great book, and for those who don’t travel only read one page. We were born to move and challenge our bodies, when we don’t, our lives and cells get stagnate. Discovering a new place for the first time is like discovering a fountain of youth. Both physically and geographically moving our body, moves our mind, and this keeps the kid in us alive.
One thing I have come to realize through climbing and exploring is that fear is an illusion. No matter were we go, there will always be good people around a warm fire, there will always be a friend to share with a cold beer and there will always be a new adventure lurking somewhere over them there hills.
Enjoy the trip!
PHILOSOPHY
Do what you love. Love what you do. Take less. Give more. Never quit. Never follow. Be passionate. Be bold. Be honest. Respect people. Respect the environment. Always bring out the best in your family and friends. Change is the only constant. Fear is an illusion. Attitude is everything.
TICK LIST
Below are some routes that were either notable (at least in my own mind:), or memorable, (also in my own mind:). I began my love for climbing indoors, then going outside to boulder and sport climb, over the last 15 years I’ve managed to bumble my way up about 80 5.14 sport climbs, yet, none of them have been as meaningful to me as the traditional climbs I’ve done. I’m not sure why that is exactly, but may have something to do with the aesthetics of the lines, as well as the synergy of body AND mind control. And now, as I continue on my journey in the vertical World, I am beginning to find even more meaning in the bigger and bigger objectives. Things like El Capitan in Yosemite, El Gigante in Mexico, and Cap Trinite in Quebec to name just a few. Those adventures stay with me even longer, perhaps it’s because they require an equally dedicated partner, or because they require so much more of everything, power, endurance and skill all rolled into one big objective. That for me is becoming the ultimate. And even more so when I take these objectives into the mountain environments. Here is a brief list of routes I have enjoyed over the years…
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The Prophet, El Capitan, Yosemite CA, 5.13d R, 13 pitches, First 5 Ground Up, Last 7 Top Down, (2nd ascent with Will Stanhope)
The Shining, on Mount Louis, Canada, 5.13c/d, 18 pitches, 18 hours, (1st ascent with Tommy Caldwell)
The Power of Yesterday, 5.13c, 4 pitches, Squamish, BC, 5 hours, (1st ascent, with help from Jeremy Blumel and Paul Bride)
The Grand Trilogy Link, 5.13b, 24 pitches, 12 hours, Squamish, BC, (1st ascent with Matt Segal)
The Edge of Pan, 5.13b, 4 pitches, Squamish, BC, 5 hours, (1st ascent, with help from Alastair Johnstone and Chris Weldon)
The Mistress, 5.13b, 4 pitches, Mount Yamnuska, AB, (1st ascent, bolted with Nick Rochacewich, climbed with Derek Galloway)
Logical Progression, 5.13a, Basaseachic Falls, Mexico, 28 pitches, 16 hours, (1st continuous free ascent with Alex Honnold)
The Steinbok Arete 5.11R, 20 pitches, Anderson River Valley, BC, 28 hours, (3rd overall ascent with Will Stanhope and Johnny Sims)
The Buttress, North Face Variation, Squamish, BC, 5.9, 4 new pitches, (1st ascent with Lydia Zamorano and Ben Moon)
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Cobra Crack 5.14 trad (1st ascent)
The Path 5.14 trad (1st ascent)
Sugar Daddy 5.14 trad (1st ascent)
Direquiem 5.14 trad (1st ascent) pre-placed gear
Rhapsody 5.14 trad (2nd ascent)
Stingray Crack 5.13d/14a (2nd ascent)
East Face of Monkey Face 5.13d trad (1st gear ascent)
Prosthetics 5.13d trad (1st gear ascent)
Master Blaster 5.13d (3rd ascent) pre-placed gear.
The Great Escape 5.13c, trad (1st ascent)
Lake of Fire 5.13c (3nd ascent)
Aesthetics 5.13c trad (3rd gear ascent)
Bio Diesel 5.13b trad (1st ascent)
The Shadow 5.13b trad (3rd ascent)
Stupid Fly 5.13b trad (unknown ascent)
The Bizmark, 5.13b free solo (1st free ascent)
Five Year Plan 5.13- trad (3rd ascent)
Learning to Fly 5.13- trad (2nd ascent)
From Switzerland with Love 5.13- trad (2nd ascent)
The Monument 5.13a trad (3rd ascent)
Welcome to Ol’ Kentuck 5.13a trad (3rd ascent)
Survival of the Fittest 5.13a trad (unknown ascent)
Lolita 5.13a, deep water solo (1st ascent, Malta)
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Forever Expired 5.14d, sport (1st ascent)
Superman 5.14c, sport (1st ascent)
Just Do it 5.14c, sport (7th ascent)
Necessary Evil 5.14c, sport (5th ascent)
Titan, 5.14a, sport (1st ascent)
Silent Menace 5.14a, sport (1st ascent)
The Illusionist 5.14a, sport (1st ascent)
Patience 5.14a, sport (1st ascent)
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