Sonnie Trotter

Cement Truck!

Sunday, October 30th, 2011

Greetings.

To read about our skydiving mission, click here.

To read about our Prophet Mission, scroll down.

For anyone who follows this, here’s another very brief recap.  We just got down off the wall after spending 4 days up there getting worked by very hard, powerful and insecure climbing.  I will report more soon, but here’s the gist of it because my computer is going to die.  I accidentally sent the A1 Beauty pitch on Top rope on my first try since going back up, that was fun, Will made a HUGE link and we’re no longer scared of sending it.  We solved the Final Defence boulder problem on the last pitch (V8/5.13b R) and took that to the top of the wall.  Slept.  We rapped down and tried the Devils Dyno Pitch.  Failed.  Got really worked.  It’s very much a proper dyno.  I managed to solve a sequence down lower crimping on the footholds but it’s like a hard V10/11 sequence, not exactly recommended, and I’m not sure I can fully pull it off, but if I can, I will be thrilled,  they are some of the cooler moves I have ever done.  The next day, Will dug deeper than ever and after about 20 tries,  latched the dyno across.  It was amazing to see.  Perhaps I’ll try it again after all.   I feel he’ll be able to do it more consistently now that he’s familiar with it.  I may stick to my V10 bloc because I have faith I can send it that way.  After that there is another very hard move getting across the corner and onto the face,  a very wide stretch and no feet.  The feet we did have to use I broke off.  ARGH.  That’s the problem with the east side of El Cap, it’s friable.  It’s going to be much harder now.  Which I am not exactly excited about, ha ha ha, because to be frank, the last thing we need is “much” harder now   We did all the moves on the Guillotine pitch on our first try, which was nice, but we have not accounted for the 25 foot runouts, the terrifyingly loose flakes, the potential 60 foot falls or the pump in our arms.  But we remain confident.  We don’t want to go any lower than this on rappel, we’d like to try ground upping it for the first 7 pitches and top down on the upper 6 pitches.   In an ideal world.  GRIN.   But then again, you can’t climb the prophet if you’re broke or dead, so we shall see what happens next.  We feel like a we’ve been hit by a cement truck today.  What a climb.  What a battle.  What a position.  What an experience.  I originally only wanted to use this climb as a training route, to get into some kind of shape for my winter road trip, but now, as the ends comes near, I really, really want to finish it.  It’s quite amazing. And it’s so rewarding to try something so, so daunting.   Here’s the breakdown in case you missed it.  5.12bR, 5.12bR, 5.11dX, 5.13aR, 5.13bR, 5.13bR, 5.12bR, 5.13bR, 5.13cR, 5.12bR, 5.13dR, 5.12bR, 5.13bR.  Leo and Jason have left a mark with this one:)  Happy climbing!

Willy on the A1 Beauty Pitch.  The Best rock on the route by far, but not necessarily the best climbing, it’s all so good how does one choose?

Will again on the Final Defence heading across the slippery slabs.

| Posted in Climbing | 2 Comments »

Kwik Klips!

Tuesday, October 25th, 2011

We’re in Lake Tahoe today, again,  it was time for another long stretch of rest and this place is just so chiiiillllllll, not to mention downright beautiful!  Our Canadian friend Paul Bride flies in tonight so we pick him up in Scaremento before heading back.  I think we’ll do 3 or 4 days rest before getting back at ‘er.  Willy has to leave on Novemeber 8th, so that only gives us about 8 or 9 climbing days left on this mission.  Which will go faster than we think.  So until then, I thought I might leave you with a few quick clips.  These are two video’s we made for the Five Ten blog, just a quick hit of Will Stanhope (aka, Billy Stamper) trying the Arch project in Squamish, and one of me doing an Arrowhead climbing shoe Product Review in Pemberton Valley, BC.  There’s a bit of climbing in there as well.  Check them out.  Have a truly spectacular day….

The Arch Project from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

Arrowhead Profile in Pemby! from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

| Posted in Climbing | 1 Comment »

tiny increments

Sunday, October 23rd, 2011

Yosemite continues to amaze, as does the Prophet.  Its climbing although often loose, is exceptional.  It’s exposure is brilliant.  It’s challenges are constant.  From where I left off last time, Will and I decided to start climbing from the ground up,  the way Leo had.  The only difference between our attempts and Leo’s is that we have some idea of where we are going, we also know that someone (not an aid climber) has been there before, and succeeded, so the experience is quite a bit different, but no doubt exhilarating.  We were on the wall by 7am on Tues, I lead the first two opening pitches of 5.12b, R.  Then Will pushed past his high point on the 3rd pitch, 5.11d X, which if you’re in Eldorado, Colorado translates to very, very serious.  After that, I had a 5.13a R pitch.  I made it halfway until I hit the “marginal” belay.  A large skinny flake with three knifeblades stuffed behind it and a mashy, all tied off and equalized.  From here, under the blinding mid-afternoon sun, I literally had no idea which way to go, there were 3 options, all of them runout, and I was not about to cast off into an ocean of questionable possibilities (not to mention rock quality) with this so called “anchor” as my only gear.  I am no longer 21, I am 31, and married.  ha ha ha.  I very happily retreated and will continue up another day, hopefully under less intense skies and cooler temps.

After one rest day we hiked back up to the top to try the A1 Beauty pitch.  One of the best I have EVER seen.  We each tried it twice and made some great progress.  I reckon I’ll try leading it pretty soon.  Will has an easier time at the beginning which is a burly fingery crack climbing boulder problem equal to a hard V8 in the buttermilks – and I seem to have an easier time with the ending, which is not as powerful but very sustained.  I am feeling more and more confident with the ending section, so all’s I really have to do now is get ultra fierce with the opening sequence, I can do it, but it’s not easy.   All in all, we are having a BLAST.  The very last pitch is wicked hard as well, solid 5.13b R.  We have yet to link that either.  Tim Emmett came up one night to lift our spirits and pour us a drink of Jim Bean.  It was sad to see him leave, but like everything Tim does, he always leaves with style.

Well, that’s all I have to report for now, progress on a rock this big is usually measured in tiny increments and we are enjoying every step along the way.  All’s I can say is that we are climbing safely (relatively) and getting stronger every day.  Happy Rocktober.

Uncle Willy on the east ledges.

Glorious half dome from Curry Village.

Base camp in the SKY.

Peeking through the bushes where the Prophet tops out.

More coffee.

A changing of the seasons, places and faces.

A splash of light.

Half Dome’s cheeky backside.

Rapping in on A1 Beauty Pitch pre-dawn.

A book, a dream and a therm-a-rest.

| Posted in Climbing | 5 Comments »

A Humbling Monster

Tuesday, October 18th, 2011

Well the rumors are true, El Cap is a humbling monster.  It’s big, it’s steep, it’s slick, it’s sharp, it’s hot, it’s cold.  Luckily, we ain’t here just to “conquer” the rock, weez here to push our context of reality, find deeper meaning in this crazy world, and drink some ice cold wobbly pops in the beautiful meadow.

Last weekend, after only 5 days of climbing, Will and I needed to escape, my legs were tired of hiking, my elbows flared up from jugging, and Will was getting over a weird stomach bug, so we kicked it to Tahoe for a couple of days.  Along the way up north we pulled over in Bridgeport on the East Side and had ourselves a few cocktails at the local Saloon.  I met a retired man there who was out for the fall fishing.  He had a bit of a belly, a comb over, a plaid shirt and a big enlightened grin on his face, I liked him immediately.  As you do on the bar stool, we shared stories about ourselves.  At one point with a cheeky smirk he leaned forward and whispered, “Listen, I LOVE my wife, and I miss her, we do many great things together, but fishing isn’t one of them” and then he continued, “you know, I’m not really here for the fish anyway”.  I love my wife too, and we do many things together as well, including climbing, but I think I did know what he was saying,  Fishing was just the excuse to travel a bit, clear his mind and see the world from a different perspective, the Sierra’s are absolutely jaw dropping.  Perhaps it’s the same reason why we climb these massive cliffs?  It’s not about the bike.  Overpriced Bourbon never tasted so good.

So, we get into South Tahoe the next day, and it’s rad, chill bro, tranquilo, like so chill we didn’t even do anything.

After some R and R, an oil change and a new US 395 T-shirt, we are back in the Valley.

Yesterday Stanhope and I went from the ground up on the Prophet, to inspect those initial terrifying pitches. 12bR, 12bR, 11dX.  Will then said “you know what’s cool?  we might actually be the only other people on the planet to free these pitches”.  That was a cool thought.  Then we rapped off and guzzled 3 liters of water.  After those first 3 pitches, it really kicks back.  This is a slow progress process.  We want to enjoy it.  We want to be safe. And we want to feel strong.  It’s too easy to want to push it everyday and then flame out.  It’s harder to approach it with patience and diligence.  The problem then lies in time, something we may very likely run out of.  But that’s not our concern at this point in the game.  Our concern right now is taking a 50 foot tall onto a marginal belay or an expanding flake.  Our concern is getting shut down by super tech granite moves that Leo is especially gifted at.  Our concern is wimping out on the Devils Dyno, if we ever get to it. But hey, like Mr.Houlding himself once said, “if it was easy, it wouldn’t be hard would it?”

Until next time…

| Posted in Climbing | 3 Comments »

Thankful

Tuesday, October 11th, 2011

As Canucks, Will Stanhope and I spent Thanksgiving up on the big stone, eating Mac and Cheese and getting harassed by beady eyed ring tailed cats.  We drank Scotch under the stars, smoked a stogie, and listened to The Tragically Hip on the ipod.  Frankly, and not to sound too soulful,  it was one of the most peaceful couple of days I’ve had since my honeymoon.  When the full darkness of night finally sets in and you look out over the expanse, you can see headlamps spread out from the bottom of the Valley floor all the way up to the rim, and along the parks entire length.  They look just as enchanting as the stars in the sky and you know there is plenty of adventure happening all around.  Oddly, that’s a comforting feeling for me.  This place is HUGE.  Click image below.

Twice we rapped in on the Prophet and tried the A1 Beauty pitch, (No 13 on the 14 pitch climb).  It’s a horrendously thin left leaning crack, and the feet are so atrocious, it may as well be overhanging.   During three hefty burns each, we worked out the desperate moves on the seam, but have failed to make any substantial links.  The only section we haven’t tried are the long powerful pulls towards the anchor.  That’s when the gear, as well as the feet, run out for good, and the only thing that will get a leader to the top is pure momentum.  Hesitate for a second and you’re off, back down to that razor sharp arete you spent the last 20 minutes trying to get to.  It’s an exhausting pitch, alluring, terrifying, and exciting.

If you have never read Leo Houlding’s account of his and Jason Pickles route, the Prophet, in Rock and Ice issue #192,  then run (don’t walk) and get a copy from the magazine, or from a friend.  It is by far and away one of the best pieces of climbing literature written in the last few years.  The film by Posing Productions is also one of the best rock documentaries on the shelf, but as so often the case, the internal dialogue is possibly more gripping than the real life footage.  His writing (like his climbing) is far from cliche, he has original thoughts and ideas and he expresses them with humor and a no bullshit attitude. This is definitely a hero worshiping blog post, make no mistake, but if you’ve ever wondered what makes one of the boldest climbers of the last decade and half tick, then read this article.  You’ll put it down knowing what separates Leo from most climbers.  The story is an honest look at his career development, his ideals, and his real deal struggle to climb what he says “may be the hardest thing he’s ever done”!  “We had no choice. Jason and I are neither cowards, nor fools, yet once again we flirted with the line that Bridwell had warned me of all those years before”.  This is one of many favorite quotes.  It’s a story about pushing his own personal limits, and creating his own little piece of history and if that’s not a story worth reading – I don’t know what is.

When talking to Leo via email today, he asks Will our opinion on the grade and says he called it “5.13d R, Old School”.  Will and I wholeheartedly agree.  There is nothing soft about it.  This is not your typical 13d, coming from one of the greatest granite technicians of this generation.  We’ll go back tomorrow and have another stab at it, but we have to be careful about project fever, we can’t get too wrapped up on one pitch otherwise we lose sight of what’s around us and may even lose motivation.  On something so big and serious, success is measured in small increments, we need to keep it fresh, that’s the idea anyway.

Now as the holiday weekend has passed, I reflect on what I’m grateful for, and happily it’s always the same, my family for their constant love and support, my incredible and incredibly gorgeous wife for too many reasons to list, my friends for always giving me a hard time, and for the wild and natural places of the world, which moves many to keep daring, dreaming and screaming with joy.

Hope you like the pictures.  Click to enlarge.  God speed.

Crossing the boarder like a boss.

A stop over in Portland OR, to get some local coffee, imported from local countries, served by local people.

Stir crazy after 15 hours, but getting stoked to drop into to Cali town.

A sight that never gets old, even though we do.

Not a minute to spare, coiling my new Sterling 300 foot static cord for the big hike.

Day one, the calm before the storm, but still stoked.

The never disappointing Half Dome, always framed perfectly by the surrounding landscape.

By the way, ike many folks, I have to hustle a living anyway I can, so please keep in mind that all my images are for sale at a very reasonable price if you’d like a print!  winky face, smiley face:)

Coffee.  Because you can’t put a price on morale.

A frosty morning in the meadow.

The Valley is a place of extreme’s, cold nights, hot rays, delicate plants and sharp blocky rocks.

Will sitting out a little gut rot, possibly from the river water, but like a rock star, still eager to get after it.

| Posted in Climbing | 7 Comments »

Oct 4 ever

Thursday, October 6th, 2011

Oct 2011.  The Endless Summer is a CLASSIC surf film of the 1970’s, the name says it all – chasing waves, bikinis, and that golden kissed skin, barrel after barrel, day after day, for all eternity.

But for a climber, I mean, a real down deep in the guts type of climber with scars on their knuckles, an ache in their elbow and dirt under their skin, October might be a more appropriate month.  The nights are cool which provide a most satisfying sleep, (ideally snuggled up to a loved one) but sometimes a grumpy and disheveled big wall partner will have to do.  The days are bright, often sunny with the occasional shower and crisp, nearly to the point of numbing tips.

Fact:  On days like these, the body can perform at a higher level, the heat won’t melt away our mojo, or our skin for that matter.  On the flipside, the cold won’t chatter away our reserves into a blue lipped oblivion.  These are the days that attract climbers from all over the globe to climb in Yosemite National Park every year.  And this season, I am no exception.

Rain falls today, but the forecast is calling for sun, and lots of it.   Egg yokes across the board.   I’m here with fellow Canadian Will Stanhope.  Willy is a comedian trapped in a climbers body.  He has a deep obsession for climbing, and a nearly fearless approach to it, but he’ll never stop cracking jokes.  His steel fingers dig deep when they need to, and his light frame and long arms only help the cause of getting up fierce cliffs with quickness and control.

“Life is too important to be taken seriously” he’ll say, over a smoky flavored scotch.

We are here to try our luck on El Capitan, my first time ever.  Inspired by Leo Houlding’s 9 year quest to free one of the most amazing new routes the World has ever seen, Willy and I have chosen to inspect The Prophet 5.13d, as a potential route for us.  Unfortunately, the day we arrived a cold black cloud engulfed the Valley and left everyone running for a warm place to hide.  Tomorrow is a new day, clear skies and 60 degrees.  I have my bag packed, and my fingers crossed.

I hope October never ends.

NOTE: The above is NOT my picture.

| Posted in Climbing | 6 Comments »