SKYWALKER!

Yesterday I did this amazing new route with my good friends Paul Bride and Kevin Zenatta.  The weather here has been out STANDING and the blue sky, green tree’s, light breeze, and twinkling ocean reminds me why I live here and put up with so many rain days, ha ha.

So, back tot he climb.  It’s called Skywalker, located to the right of Shannon Falls.  It’s a tad bit dirty still,  could use some more work,  like a coat hanger to the back of the cracks (because finger locks were challenging),  the cracks are deeper than they are because there’s still a bit of dirt in them, and the rock is a bit “dusty” but WHOA –  what a spectacular route,  it’s such a nice line,  a perfect intro route to Squamish leaders,  5.8,  5 pitches, MEGA SCENIC.  Mega Thankful.

It was recently opened by Squamish workhorse Jeremy Frimer and the amount of work he and his friends did is INSANE.   The climb is of perfect quality, perfect length and a wonderful grade.  It still has a little way’s to go, but hopefully traffic and some rain will take care of the rest.  If you do it,  please bring a brush and help clean as you go, every little bit will help this gem really shine.  There were a few very small tree’s removed which is understandable and sort of mandatory around here, but I feel that the stumps left behind were a bit on the long side,  I’d like to see them taken right down to the base,  these left us stepping over them and getting slings and whatnot caught on them.     Just my two cents.  I also think the last pitch has one or even two too many bolts.  It’s very easy ground and has three bolts in about 40 feet.  Again,  just my two cents.  Also, we screwed up and instead of climbing the FLUME pitch, which we thought was 5.10 from our failed memory of the topo, we went left and climbed a cracky flake system, which was also rad, and perhaps even a hair easier,  maybe not?   We also skipped the second belay anchor, (not the rusty chains on the left, but the actual anchor over the little bulge) because it was uncomfortable for three people, so I went up to the single bolt above and belayed there,  much more mellow and I could see the climbers actually coming up.  If I were guiding this route, that’s what I would have done, and I’ll do it again.  Pitch 3 is INCREDIBLE.  Pitch 4 is airy with a stunning backdrop of the ocean and pitch 5 has too many tree stumps in the way of the good rock.   Other than that, this baby is ready to go and be enjoyed.  So there’s what I can remember from last night.  All in all, I can’t recommend this route enough, it’s brilliant.  And a HUGE  BIG UP to JF for the hard work he put into it.  THANK YOU!!  Happy Climbing (and cleaning) to all.

  • Ben Random

    Hey! Gotta agree, Skywalker is awesome and Jeremy clearly put a ton of thought into making it very, very approachable for the fledgling 5.8 leader. I bet a lot of people are going to get their multi-pitch cherry popped on this climb!

    Personally I thought the 5.8 finger crack, The Flume, was awesome and the best 5.8 finger crack I’ve ever climbed. Not to be missed. I’m glad to have hit Skywalker on my annual pilgrimage to Squamish this year (I go every August, Yosemite is my local crag.) May the force be with you!

    Sonnie, I’m sad that I didn’t get to climb the Buttface. Ah well, looking forward to it next year! Thank you for putting that one up! Although, “buttface”?

    Cheers!

  • corey boux

    Thanks for posting these moderate routes ; skywalker and buttface . the two articles on your blog served as a hit list for my trip to squamish this summer . I have only owned a trad rack since may and am fairly new to climbing (40 days last season 60 this year ) but felt these two climbs were realistic goals during my trip . With some keen rope guns ( girl friend amy and kayak friend ricky ) i lead the 5 pitches of skywalker on 3 different occasions and the 14 pitches deidre to buttface for another 9 hour adventure .(right shoulder chimney move makes the last pitch harder than left in the crack, woops !)Thanks for the inspiration it helped stoke my summer !