Sonnie Trotter

Beers and Blocks!

Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

I just got back from a great trip to Mazama Washington,  if you haven’t been there and you live within a 5 hour drive, GO.  It’s beautiful, climb sport routes in the Methow Valley, jump in the rivers and then have a pint at the end of the day and listen to some good live music in Twisp.  It’s an awesome place, dry, sunny, and stunning.  Here’s a photo taken around beer-thirty so you know what I mean…

I didn’t climb too much, I did try to onsight solo a 5.12, but kept coming down for fear of a suspicious looking hold, but great fun, lots of good little cliffs everywhere and lots more potential.  It’s just fun.  It’s not the Verdon or Ceuse or even Smith Rock, but it’s unique.  Many thanks to FIVE TEN, and the members of ROCKFEST 2011 for having me.  I had a blast!

Finally, for today, here is a clip I was sent of three Squamish locals removing a dangerous rock on Birds of Prey on the Squaw.  It’s a good reminder that just because something is big, does not mean it’s “safe”.  Be cautious out there, and DO NOT drop rocks without doing all the background work necessary,  this group had people on the ground for public safety.   Use the internet, chat rooms, billboards, climbing shops, the works.  PLEASE PLEASE BE SAFE.  Too many close calls that were NOT necessary are behind us, so please use common sense, we’ll all do the same.  Have fun.  Climb ON.   BOO-YA.

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SLC

Friday, June 24th, 2011

I just had a great week in Salt Lake City,  which is hard for me to admit, ha ha,  because I ain’t a city person really, but we spent some time up at beautiful Brighton Ski resort, and then down in town at the Black Diamond headquarters.  Now, I’m the first to admit that I’m a huge dork, and that includes my dorkyness for climbing history and it’s major players.  Whether it happened last week or last decade, a part of me likes knowing what’s helped get us all here today, and by ALL, I mean, everyone.  Sharma and Ondra on 5.15’s, Alex Honnold on 5.12 free solo’s, Tommy Caldwell on El Cap, and that 8 year old kid in Bishop climbing V12 after 6 months in the sport.  Not just the top dogs are effected by our past, everybody, 60 year old men and women who took up climbing after work are crushing 5.12’s, it’s incredible to see.  And when I’m in the presence of climbing’s historic contributors, I get a little like, WHOA!  For example, last night I had drinks with Jonny Woodward, Henry Barber and Russ Clune, now that’s a classy bunch.  In their own class.  I also had the chance to re-connect with Jack Tackle, Peter Metcalf and Kate Rutherford.  So many good climbers, passionate climbers, and great people.  That’s a very cool thing for me, it’s one of the parts of my job that I love the most, meeting the people who have influenced not only myself, but to some level, the entire sport that I most connect with – and most if not all are still crushing as of this very day.  So, anyway, in case you were wondering all those people are rad, and the entire week was a pleasure.  Thanks for having me BD.

On to other things, back in May, I had the chance to travel around the East Coast with Five Ten for a little, TOUR, if you will.  From a Social D concert in Rhode Island to a SoHo slide show, to Burlington, Vermont and even a pitch at the Adirondacks and the near Traps of the Gunks.  It was an awesome trip, wet and rainy, even bought 15 dollar rubber boots, but an awesome trip nonetheless.  Here are a few photographs I took during my travels.  Hope you like them, and keep on keepin on….

The Gunks carrage road, on a foggy day in May.  I think we were the only climbers in the park that day.

A slick VW I saw in New Paltz, NY,  took the guy 1 year to restore it.

A bit of moisture in the air.

Storm clouds a brewing.

My saving grace.  There’s nothing better in the GUNKS than a perfectly placed nut.

Five Ten’s own, Dana Seaton, putting the shoes to stone on a classic 5.8.

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Busy Busy

Sunday, June 19th, 2011

Well, I’ve climbed 5 days in a row now, going on 6 today,  starting to feel tired.  But, I seem to have so much zest for the rock these days, I simply can’t get enough.  Hiking, bouldering, climbing, trad, bolts, I’ve been doing it all, as much as possible.  Finally, after the longest winter of my life.   The highlight of my week so far was a new free climb I opened up on the imposing Pan Wall.  It’s an old aid route called ‘The Edge of Pan’, 5 pitches, 5.8 A3, 1983 and sits quietly below the first summit of the Chief.  It’s a hard wall to get to, steep and with the maximum amount of exposure Squamish provides.  On friday, I went up there with my incredibly selfless friend Chris Weldon and with drink in hand, he belayed me out in space, on the 45 meter crux corner pitch, which, for the record, is one of the single best rock climbs I have ever done, period. Certainly one of the highest quality routes in Squamish.  The climb goes at 5.13-, no easier, no harder, it’s a prime candidate for an onsight because it’s so sustained,  all you need is a decent head on your shoulders and strong legs.  Great shoes and a bit of luck are also highly recommended.  It’s a technical masterpiece and I was lucky to have fired it off under the watchful eyes of my friend Andrew Querner, who shot video of the ascent.   I felt (and still feel) so lucky to be able to nab such a precious climb. Again, one of my all time favorite experiences on the rocks.  Mostly because I wasn’t sure I was going to do it,  I headed up with a rack of tiny gear, lots of small wires and a double rack of C3’s, and triple in some sizes.   My legs were shaking, my mind was uncertain, my feet were aching and my calves were on fire.  It was 8pm, and this was my only chance until August, so I kept inching upwards.  Move by move.  Chris told me later the ascent took about 45 minutes.  I am so lucky.  I am so stoked.  Now, the best thing to do would be a full ground up ascent of the entire route,  one could choose to climb the Apron, or the greater, and most obvious line would be to link in “Never, Never Land” 5.12 directly into the Edge of Pan for a full straight up, top to bottom ascent.  That’s the ultimate.  I hope I can do that when I get back.  Tomorrow I leave for Salt Lake City and the Black Diamond headquarters,  then, to Mazama for a fun festival with Five Ten and a slide show,  then to the Rockies for a month of high altitude Canadian limestone. Aahhh shheeet ya.  Gotta love summertime.

These two pics below, were taken last winter, after I first inspected the line, I brought big guns Willy Stanhope up with me to show him the route, after these snaps were taken my battery died, I never did take a photo of the corner.  But like I said in the comments, new routing is fun.

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Wicked Comp Clip!

Thursday, June 16th, 2011

Check out this awesome clip of the World Cup in Canmore.  They did everything right it seems.  Technical, powerful, colorful and awkward, everything a boulder problem should be,  ha:)   I haven’t competed in years, but the fun they are having makes me want to join in.  Wish I could have been there for this…

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Under 25 CLIMBING CAMP!

Monday, June 13th, 2011

This will be my third consecutive year teaching the Alpine Club of Canada’s Under 25 Climbing Camp.  And there’s less then a month before it happens.   The ACC has only a few spots left available, so if you’re between the ages of 18 and 25, and climbing is your passion, this is where to start.  Imagine getting outside this July, to learn more about the mountains and taking your adventures to a higher level, Canmore is the place to be.  OR, if you know someone who fits this profile that may not know about this exciting camp,  please spread the word.   It’s truly an amazing summer experience, one where climbers from across Canada can make new like minded friends, or even go with a friend, like we’ve seen in the past.  This camp is 5 days long, beginning on July 4th and ending on July 9th.   It’s something I would have dreamed of as a youth.   The ACC provides all sleeping arrangements and food for the entire duration of the camp.  They make registration easy, and simple, and we’re lucky as a community to have them stand behind such important events.  For any information, please feel free to contact me, at sonniejtrotter@yahoo.ca or the ACC at info@AlpineClubofCanada.ca

This year, we’re lucky enough to have recruited Sarah Hueniken as our lead guide.  Sarah is one of the most accomplished all around female climbers anywhere on Terra Firma.  She crushes ice, rock and alpine all the same.  She has a massive resume behind her, but more than that she’s highly respected in the guiding world for her strength as an athlete as well as her kindness and approachability.  See her site here for great photo’s and bio.

Hope you’re all getting out there and getting after it, after all, we only go around once, if you know what I mean?

Enjoy some pictures of camps in years past….

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SKYWALKER!

Wednesday, June 8th, 2011

Yesterday I did this amazing new route with my good friends Paul Bride and Kevin Zenatta.  The weather here has been out STANDING and the blue sky, green tree’s, light breeze, and twinkling ocean reminds me why I live here and put up with so many rain days, ha ha.

So, back tot he climb.  It’s called Skywalker, located to the right of Shannon Falls.  It’s a tad bit dirty still,  could use some more work,  like a coat hanger to the back of the cracks (because finger locks were challenging),  the cracks are deeper than they are because there’s still a bit of dirt in them, and the rock is a bit “dusty” but WHOA -  what a spectacular route,  it’s such a nice line,  a perfect intro route to Squamish leaders,  5.8,  5 pitches, MEGA SCENIC.  Mega Thankful.

It was recently opened by Squamish workhorse Jeremy Frimer and the amount of work he and his friends did is INSANE.   The climb is of perfect quality, perfect length and a wonderful grade.  It still has a little way’s to go, but hopefully traffic and some rain will take care of the rest.  If you do it,  please bring a brush and help clean as you go, every little bit will help this gem really shine.  There were a few very small tree’s removed which is understandable and sort of mandatory around here, but I feel that the stumps left behind were a bit on the long side,  I’d like to see them taken right down to the base,  these left us stepping over them and getting slings and whatnot caught on them.     Just my two cents.  I also think the last pitch has one or even two too many bolts.  It’s very easy ground and has three bolts in about 40 feet.  Again,  just my two cents.  Also, we screwed up and instead of climbing the FLUME pitch, which we thought was 5.10 from our failed memory of the topo, we went left and climbed a cracky flake system, which was also rad, and perhaps even a hair easier,  maybe not?   We also skipped the second belay anchor, (not the rusty chains on the left, but the actual anchor over the little bulge) because it was uncomfortable for three people, so I went up to the single bolt above and belayed there,  much more mellow and I could see the climbers actually coming up.  If I were guiding this route, that’s what I would have done, and I’ll do it again.  Pitch 3 is INCREDIBLE.  Pitch 4 is airy with a stunning backdrop of the ocean and pitch 5 has too many tree stumps in the way of the good rock.   Other than that, this baby is ready to go and be enjoyed.  So there’s what I can remember from last night.  All in all, I can’t recommend this route enough, it’s brilliant.  And a HUGE  BIG UP to JF for the hard work he put into it.  THANK YOU!!  Happy Climbing (and cleaning) to all.

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This just in…

Thursday, June 2nd, 2011

I just received my regular ACC News Net today and followed a link to an amazing webpage with lots of very, very high quality images of the comp over the weekend.  Lot’s of strong Canadians. The report said this…

“The Bouldering World Cup in Canmore last weekend was a HUGE success!!!! Presented by MEC and the ACC, 70 athletes from 10 countries enjoyed Canadian hospitality and weather. The snow on Friday did not dampen anyone’s spirits – there were more than 1100 spectators plus volunteers and officials over the two day event. Cheering for the competitors could be heard all over Canmore…”

See bad-ass-in-your-face-feel-the-intensity pictures here and god speed - http://www.eveleigh.biz/WorldCup/Men%20Climbers/index.html#gallery=page_5

Terry Paholek above.

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