Sonnie Trotter

Cherry Mistmast to Y’all.

Wednesday, December 22nd, 2010

It’s a busy season for everyone right now, (what with all the eggnog and cookies and such) so I don’t have much to say, or time to say it, so instead I’ll post this picture I took of the Squamish Marina the other night.  I froze my roasted chestnuts to get this shot.  Full moon, eerie clouds, masts with spirit,  I hope you like it, and consider it my Christmas Gift from me to you.  Happy Holidays and may the new year bring you to many places you’ve only dreamed of.

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Stoke is high!

Friday, December 17th, 2010

This morning I put on my jacket that still smells like campfire smoke from Bishop. I chipped ice off my van.  But the sun is shinning in Squamish again, skies are blue, so stoke is high.  Getting ready to drive to the Island for tonight’s slide show, and I’m barely even unpacked.  However, I’m really looking forward to these ones, I’m actually very proud of the great material we have this year, with help from Andrew Burr and Paul Bride, Ben Moon and many others, like scenes from mine and Alex Honnold’s Mexico Adventure, and shots from new first ascents I’ve been working on, like the Intrepid Traverse, The Squamish Buttress – North Face, and Sugar Daddy, but mostly just dribble and spray and poser shots.  So come on out if you’re bored, inspired, or curious, or if you’re loved one is dragging you along, I’ll promise to make it interesting for you…  For example;  when I mime every single move on my latest sick tick, (painfully describing each lame micro crimp and overhead gaston – over and over and over again) I’ll be sure to go very slow so you can really pick up what I’m throwing down.  Grin:))   Check ya later.

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Rules of Alpinism

Thursday, December 16th, 2010

…kicking and a gouging in the mud, the blood ‘n the beer…

Don’t forget slide show tomorrow night “On the Rocks”, Cambell River, BC, and Saturday night at “the Romper Room”, Nanaimo, BC.  Starting at 8pm.

In a recent blog post by legendary Rockies climber Raphael Slawinski, I thought I would share with you the funniest and perhaps most true statement I have ever read about the Art of Alpinism.

“Being miserable. Let’s face it, if at no point you didn’t wish you were somewhere else, you were probably not alpine climbing.”

Dreaming about being somewhere else on a single-push ascent of  Wild Thing on Mt. Chephren in the winter of 2009. Photo: Eamonn Walsh.

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West Coast Slide Shows!!

Tuesday, December 14th, 2010

So, things didn’t work out as planned down in Bishop, I was really hoping to do the 4th ascent of Ambrosia, on my 4th and last day, I felt super strong on the beginning problem, and I knew the upper half like the back of my hand.  Unfortunately thin skin and the busted gravel at the start made things more challenging, and although I did climb through that section (with lots of bitching and whining) I wasn’t able to link it all the way to the rest.  So, the line awaits for a re-match.  As a consolation prize, I managed to squeak out an ascent of Evilution Direct.  Oh what a bloc.  Thanks for all the amazing support and crash pads from fellow climbers, thanks for the great motivation from Will and Charlie, and for the encouragement from everyone, when I fell from the lip the first time, and looked at my bloody flapper, I thought it was just best to go home,  but I stuck it out for more burns, and the next thing I knew, I was shaking in my boots over the lip, up on the slab, wondering how I got there.  Such a nice climb.  One of my all time favorites!

I’d like to invite all of you to a super fun slide show this weekend.  In fact, I’m doing two.

One at On The Rocks, in Cambell River BC on Dec, 17th, 2010 – 8pm.

and the other one at The Romper Room, Nanaimo BC on Dec 18th, 2010 – 8pm.

I’m honored to be invited over to Vancouver Island for these presentations, and it would be great to see you all there.  Thanks.

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A Real Game Changer

Wednesday, December 8th, 2010

Hmmmm, so, I have some bad news and some good news:)  This evening – Ambrosia broke.  Ooops. Now it might not be as bad as one might think.  But my heart did sink a little bit.  The good news is that, that particular hold, won’t break any more.   It’s funny,  Charlie Barrett and I were just discussing yesterday how “although the holds are small, sharp and for the most part quite terrible, at least the feet are good”.  Until today.

Minutes before the event – Will’s left foot is standing on the best hold on the wall.

Ben Ditto, (total bone crusher and photographer extraordinaire) wanted to sample the opening boulder problem with Will and Douglas tonight.  They were having quite the session and really making great progress while Enzo and I watched.  Will was stoked, he was starting to “feel” the drive by move into the side-pull.  The temps were getting colder by the minute, energy was high.  Burn after burn, rough skin dug into perfectly sharp crimps before hitting the pad with a thump and a high five.  Ben stepped up, dropped in the heel and CRACK.  He hit the pad on his ass,  no high five.  We were in shock, and suddenly Enzo burst out laughing, he ran up to the wall and picked up some of what was once the only good foothold for 25 feet.   We all burst into laughter at the unexpected nature of it all.  But really, does a broken hold at the Buttermilks surprise anybody anymore?

Ben Ditto, all smiles.  It was going to break anyway, it was only a matter of time.

You can see the damage here.  Ben is holding perhaps half of the foot hold.   When you watch video of Kevin doing the moves, you’ll see him kick over to it.  You need it for about 5 crux moves in all.   There’s no question the moves still go, but now every move is going to be significantly harder.  We shall see what tomorrow brings.  I’m keen to dig in.

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Story Telling From the East Side.

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

First of all, I want to thank everyone who keeps me going on this blog archive.  When I start to get e-mails from people asking me for an update, I know I’m doing something okay, so I appreciate that.  Keeps me on my toes.  And pictures are stories too.  Like this one below, today we woke up to ice covering our soccer mom mini-Vans, inside and out.

So far, I have tried Ambrosia twice, each time, a proper session, like rapping down and repeating the upper moves over and over again.  I must admit, I’m not at all happy about the quality of the rock.  I’ve seen much more solid holds break in Bishop, and these ones are not even suspect, it’s a fact that they will break, but when, is impossible to say, perhaps today, or 10 years from now.  But the fact remains, there are at least two MAJOR holds that will break.  Like Will Stanhope says, sometimes you just gotta “roll the dice”.

No matter what John “the Verm” Sherman tries to tell you, you are not gay for using crash pads:)  A $300 Mondo is better than two artificial hips.

I’m mega impressed with Kevin, Alex and Isaac, for climbing this thing.  It’s definitely one of the biggest, baddest ass high ball lines in North America,  if not the world.  I’m especially impressed with Kevin for investing so much time and capturing it all on video for us, it’s super inspiring, and that top is not as easy as he makes it look.  It’s like a V11 to a shake, straight into a V7/8 with a NO FALL landing.  I can do everything, I’m just not sure I want to yet.

Yesterday I fell off Evilution,V11, about the same move as Enzo Nahumury is here above.  He sent on his third attempt on this day.  Let out a good scream when he slabbed out the ending.   It was very inspiring as well, to see somebody just going for it with everything they have.  Nothing else matters.

That night Will tried Evilution as well, he was about 50/50 on the first move (aren’t we all) and he eventually climbed up to the lip but numbed out and jumped off.  I nearly forgot how much fun bouldering is.   I can’t seem to find a good reason why I don’t do it very often, I’m back in love with the blocks.

And to warm up,  straight to the hot springs.  life ain’t so bad.  Is it?  Just don’t get those fingers wet you fool.

DOH!   Your body loves you now, but your tips are going to hate you tomorrow.

All good rest days begin with a good cafe.

Powerhouse boulderer on the left, Brian Capps.

A long drive down to Lone Pine to see Mount Whitney and watch the sun set.  The East side offers some of the most spectacular mountains anywhere in the world.  A precious place.

Living the dream!

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BD Journal

Thursday, December 2nd, 2010

Here’s a video I’d like to share from the Black Diamond Journal.  Filmed on the spot this summer by Cedar Wright, the clip is about a climb I did with Alex Honnold, (one of my all time hero climbers) in Squamish BC.  Rated 5.13c R, “Lake of Fire” is hard for the grade, it’s the steep and severe alternative start to the mega classic “69″ 5.13b/c.

When I showed up, I was running late from a work stint, Alex had just done the climb and although I remembered the moves well from a TR session a month before, I didn’t remember all the gear, especially with the rack Alex used.   I only had about 30 minutes before the mid-day sun hit the wall, so I opted to skip the warm up and see what could do.   Alex handed me his rack and sprayed me down where to place each piece as I timidly climbed higher and higher, trying to warm up and stay relaxed.  Before I knew it I was at the crux moves and pumped out of my skull.  I had less than a 50/50 chance of topping out.  But with Cedar somewhere on the wall filming, I thought, ‘I better try pretty hard‘, because there’s nothing worse than hanging in a harness for 20 minutes only to film some skinny white kid wimping out above decent gear.

So, with great uncertainty I let out a scream trying to dig my finger into the shallow mono.  It worked, I stuck and continued to the top.  It was a rewarding send, because of Alex’s encouragement, I was able to do the route faster than I thought I would, sort of unexpected.  So that’s always nice.  Enjoy the clip, and if you get a chance to try the route, do it, it’s one of the best in the Sea to Sky Corridor, of any grade.

Click the logo below to watch this, and many other high quality video’s.

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