Sonnie Trotter

Bishop Update!

Tuesday, November 30th, 2010

Besides the fact that my girlfriend is back in Canada now and I’m alone, and grumpy, Bishop has been treating me very well.  I’ve met some of the best people I’ve met in a very long time, some Austrians, some Germans, an Alaskan and a Netherlander named Enzo.  The Germans rented a big RV from LA and it was home base for them for the last three weeks,  genius really.  It was big and warm and parked less than a three minute walk from the base of Evilution.  Amazing.  I’ve managed to warm up a little bit and tick some moderate classics.  But my skin feels like the ass of a newborn baby, and so, I have to ease into it.  The granite at the Buttermilks will grab you and rip you open if you’re not careful, so one has to be willing to move around, change up your lines and be flexible.  On top of it all, it snowed the day after I arrived and all the highballs are now covered in snow.  So I can’t even get up the backside to check them out,  not without some crampons anyway.  Hopefully soon, Bishop has some of the best, most aesthetic looking highballs anywhere in the world.

On that note.  The Mandala broke again yesterday, so the new rumor spreads.  But maybe ‘crumbled’ is the better term.  Do y’all remember the right hand nothing crimp that Dave Graham found while inspecting the line with a step ladder?  The one that changed the way it was climbed and graded?   Yah, that one.  I didn’t even realize it was big enough to break.  I mean how can something break from nothing?  But it has and now, people might have to resort to Sharma’s original 18 move sequence to unlock the line again.  If you forgot what that complex sequence looks like, I think Big Up has it on one of their videos.   Just a presumption.  I really don’t know.  I’ll have a close look today.  Stand by.

Buttermilk Road.

Me mum is from Winnipeg, ya, and me Pa is from Michigan, don’t ya know?  And Me van is from Hope.

Getting Medieval on that shit.

Haroun and the Sea of Stories, V11,  hands fucking down, the BEST boulder problem in the whole entire WORLD.

Zee wee German girl, crushing the upper crimps from the stand start.  V9.

And that’s all I got for today.

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Age of Change!

Saturday, November 27th, 2010

This time of year can be tricky, especially in the South West.   It’s when the air cools off considerably, but the intensity of the big star in the sky beats strong, hitting hard on the side of my face as I drive into Las Vegas.  It’s been a few years and I had visions of climbing new rock with good friends.  But as I turned onto Charleston Blvd and headed out towards Red Rock Park – something was dramatically different.

I looked around with great attention while driving into the mountains.  The crimson colored stone was the same, the dusty desert, same. In my rear-view mirror Vegas was still there, in all of it’s ridiculous glory.  As I drove further into the hills, I could feel it’s sprawling energy pumping hard on my tail gate.  As a kid from the sticks of Squamish BC, the intensity of the place, the heat, the plastic, began to wear on me, and with Motley Crew singing kick start my heart, I flipped a 180 just south of Bonnie Springs and cruised back the way I came.

As I rolled to a stop hovering over Interstate 215, I began to feel light headed and nauseous.  The green arrow lit up and I jolted the van forward, pointing my tires North West, towards Bishop, California and the Sierra Mountains.

Instantly, I began feeling better, my heart beat returned to normal, my complexion recovered and I realized something very important about my ’self ‘ today.  If I’m not in a beautiful place, I just won’t be inspired.  Period.  Simple I know, but as real as anything under the sky.  Naturally of course, Beautiful means different things to different people.  I’m sure some believe Vegas to be beautiful, I’m sure, what with all it’s bright lights, big rims and multitude of car wash stations, I find it as beautiful as a decaying deer carcass.  It wasn’t always like this, when I was younger, I couldn’t care less, I just wanted to climb rocks, any rocks, as long as they were dry and hard.  But now, something in me has changed, I suspect getting older has something to do with it?  But during my enduring 45 minutes in the Las Vegas arena, I felt as though I was beginning to die.   Seriously, just another second of time stuck in traffic, breathing in the warm smog, I would certainly choke on all the doom and crash through a Starbucks drive-thru, killing a few lazy souls, along with myself (who also has the potential of laziness when tempted by the luxury of the “Worlds best coffee” ready to serve in a plastic cup without getting out from my motorized wheelchair).  I deserve to die when I’m in a place like this.

Metalica blared ‘Master of Puppets ‘ from my blown out speakers as I hit Hwy 95, North.  My yet un-calloused fingertips tapped the steering wheel with fierce intention, I haven’t climbed anything in over a week, and in less than 5 hours, on Thanksgiving Day, I would come to a place that lands me light on my feet, and high in the sky.  Bishop, California.  Now THAT is something to be Thankful for.  At least for me.

Again, I hope you enjoy the pictures (note: I did not bother taking any of Las Vegas for obvious reasons, sorry).

Death Valley National Park,  The Flats.

The Dunes.

The Drive.

The Summits.

The Blurry Highway Eyes,  15 miles south of Lone Pine on 395.

6:15 am, driving into the Buttermilks.

Now we’re cooking with bacon.

The beginning of something beautiful.  Please pass it on.

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Sorry, no time for words!

Wednesday, November 24th, 2010

Pictures are easier.   And yah, it’s been a while, I know, but there just hasn’t been much time on this trip, we’ve been on the move, and yet, there’s no time now either.  I’m sorry.  But for those non-believers, I HAVE been places, and I HAVE done things, in fact, right now, I’m at the Black Diamond Equipment headquarters in Salt Lake City, we did a tour of the manufacturing plant this afternoon and I actually got to make my own carabiner.  Boo-Ya. It rules, I’ll carry it with me to the grave.  Actually, deep down I always wanted to hand forge a piton at Yvons Chouinards tin shed, perhaps this may be the closest I’ll ever come.  ha ha.  Maybe.  I’ll keep my fingers crossed.  So now, I have a six hour drive to Las Vegas tonight,  so no words today, just some pictures to keep you tempted to come back another day, and until that day, keep on rocking in the free world.

This picture was taken just two days ago coming out of the Canyonlands, Utah.

And this picture, is of my darling Lydia, carrying the rope of course, and free soloing 5.7 on the Flat Irons of Boulder Colorado.  FUN- FUN- FUN.

And this is us (safely) on the Summit.  Hi MOM!

Jake on 5.11 in Estes Park Colorado, before winter whipped in and ruined all the fun.

And finally, my boys Josh and Kelly wrapping up the day on the First Flat Iron.   Yah, we’re crushers,  so what.

Three Soldiers in Arches National Park, taken yesterday while the man in the moon looks on.

And last, but certainly not least, the beautiful and yet, incredibly prickly desert cactus.

Gotta go NOW.  Big Drive.  Big Sky.  Big Fun.  Happy Trails.

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MOVEMENT!

Thursday, November 18th, 2010

If your in Boulder, Colorado today, check out the Movement Climbing Gym, it’s incredible.  Especially drop by after 5pm, Radical Ronnie Jenkins will be doing a FIVE TEN climbing shoe demonstration, and you can try all the newest models.  If you think you’ve seen everything Five Ten has to offer, you haven’t checked out the latest and greatest.  Such as the new Arrow Head,  by far my favorite five ten shoe at the moment.  It’s designed for steep precision climbing and I’ve been using it religiously on all overhanging terrain.  Think next generation Anasazi last with a downturned toe and a higher arch.  They’ve held up extremely well to the abuse I’ve inflicted.   They’ve held their shape beautifully and still look brand new.  And don’t be shy, Ronnie is the most approachable guy you’ll ever meet, with his southern drawl, and witty humor, he’ll have you smiling in a pair of snug boots in no time flat, so you can get on the wall, and send your proj.  For those who don’t know him (yet), Ronnie is a passionate climber and no slouch on the pebbles,  wrestling up to V13 with plenty of strength left for more.  Keep on eye on him, he’s a real inspiration.  I borrowed this photo of him from this link. Thanks.

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Slide Show!

Wednesday, November 17th, 2010

Turned 31 two days ago.  Yup, 31.  The same age as Wolfgang Gullich was when he climbed Action Direct.  So now, I’m going to get super human strength.  Right?  Not likely.  I mean good god mate, did you see the late Germans forearms?  I especially won’t get there without earning it.  But I do feel that 31 might be the beginning of this elusive man strength I’ve been hearing about.  Just the other day, while at a busy local eatery, I was able to move around two, (count ‘em, 2) cafeteria style chairs at the same time without getting pumped or out of breath.  Hope is on the horizon.

Now, with this turning point in my life behind me, I also hope for a chance to start over.  So to speak.  You know?  As I enter the 2nd/3rd of my lifespan, and even though it’s a lofty goal (especially for a dumb-ass like myself), still, I’d like try and let go of all the bullshit of being young, stupid, insecure and immature.  I’d like to write on a fresh pad of paper starting two days ago.  I realize we can do this anytime we choose throughout our existence, and perhaps we should, but somehow at 31 it seems fitting for me.  I’d like to let go of all the ridiculous things I’ve said and done, and move forward with a greater sense of compassion, understanding and a more accurate golf swing.  I don’t care if the ball goes further, as long as it goes straighter.

So, moving on.  I have another video to share, well, actually it’s not a video at all.  It’s a slide show.

In 2009, I was asked to participate in a fun photo contest for the amusement of beer drinking climbers. There were 5 contributing “artists” and for better or for worse, I was one of them. Up until this point in my life, I wasn’t much of a photographer, but I did enjoy taking pictures, and this clip is the product of some of those years. I hope you get a kick out of it and see some familiar faces.  Thanks for dropping in.

The Squamish Pro Show from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

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The Good, The Bad, The Ugly!

Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010

I was thinking, I’m 18 hours into an enduring 24 hour drive from Squamish, BC to Boulder, CO and beyond.  I don’t even remember how many times I’ve made this trek – either from one end of Canada or the other – to run in the mountains like an idiot, climb rocks and explore, going on 12 years straight, at least.  And still, at 30 years old, the long yellow line calls to me during the night.   I love driving long distances in the name of climbing trips.  I’m pretty sure this part of me will never change, it’s the way I’ve always been, longing to experience another place I haven’t yet.  I travel to climb, sure, I always will, but equally so, I travel for travel’s sake,  the great event for me is to keep moving.

I don’t have much cash right now, I have a van I bought for a $1000.00 bucks off a tow truck driver, it’s full of rope, a rack, and 3 pairs of sticky rubber boots.  The Good, is that I’m on the road again, the rig is packed with all I need and nothing I don’t, the rock ahead is warm and dry, it’s simple.  The Bad, is that I’m leaving behind my home, including the place, and the woman, I love more than anything else in the world, (even though she’s flying out to see me in 5 days, it doesn’t make it any easier) and The Ugly, is the coffee they serve at these rusty truck stops across Wyoming.  Yikes!   But nothing remains the same, soon I’ll be driving through beautiful Vedauwoo and Fort Collins and up to Estes Park to harass Kelly Cordes for a cold margarita, a couch to crash on and a guide book to sift through.

If you dream to climb (like many of us do), and the season is closing in your neighborhood, my advice (stolen from fiveten) is to quit your job, and just go.  Or at the very least, beg your crazy boss for a leave of absence.   Can’t work your life away you know.  A wise man once said, you can always make money later in life (if that’s what you truly desire).  But I think I know you, and you want the same as I want, more than money, and stuff, we want to feel free and alive.  Freedom to roam, freedom to play, freedom to choose.  And once I finish this stale cup of 2 dollar java, I’m going out to the gas pumps and I’ll put 35 bucks of guiding wages into the precious vessel which will carry me there.   Anywhere.  And that’s the freest place I can think of.

Onward.

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