Comments on: How hard is 5.14? Let pain be your guide.

By: Michel Paul

Michel Paul — Fri, 19 Nov 2010 06:33:12 +0000

Chiming in to say way good send… Back in my day I was ridden daily for my hang-dog tactics on this and even got ratted out in the end…but great crack line…”EH”

By: Paul Parker

Paul Parker — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 22:16:16 +0000

Congratulations on an excellent lead! I think I am the climber you mention above, although I didn’t flash it, I did it with just one hang on my first attempt in the late 80s, feeling like I got pretty lucky on some desperate reaches on the upper part while running out of energy. I never tried to lead it, and if I had tried, I probably would have considered pre-placed gear or some other dodgy technique. I agree it is light years harder than Equinox. It is also very finger size dependent – I think Croft might have had trouble with it, whereas he sailed up “Vanbellodrome” in Yosemite which is wider but seems just as hard to me.

I think the climber in the picture above is Brooke Sandahl, and the belayer is Mike Paul.

By: Alex

Alex — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 17:43:16 +0000

Thanks for the explanation Sonnie. From the pictures I’ve seen, it didn’t seem like the line was overhanging, but now that I go back and look closer I can totally see what you mean. That’s cool to hear about your send of The Optimist, I remember seeing the video of Rodden on that and thinking it looked THIN. I’m surprised Tommy didn’t nab the second ascent since he was there and all, do you know if he tried it?

Speaking of Beth Rodden (I’m sure you’ve been asked this before plenty of times but maybe you can indulge me) what are your thoughts on her route Meltdown? The nature of the climbing and the fact that both routes were featured in separate volumes of the Dosage series made Meltdown seem like the thinner, harder sequel to The Optimist.

By: Danny

Danny — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:29:36 +0000

Bangerang

By: Marc Leclerc

Marc Leclerc — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 07:11:26 +0000

Great send Sonnie! Incredible pics too!

When it comes to girls with little fingers climbing these thin cracks…. It definitely helps to have little fingers, as the locks are easier and less painful. But once it hits overhanging and the feet disappear its gets VERY powerful, try locking off and reaching between the locks on Cobra Crack! Its like doing a set of 100 frenchies on shallow 2 finger pockets!
Tiny tips cracks on a vertical or more slabby wall might be better for the ladies with tiny fingers, like ‘City Park’ in Index (even that has no feet though!!!)
Point is, pure bouldering power may be more of an asset than little fingers on these steep footless finger cracks!

By: bonjourpeewee

bonjourpeewee — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 04:00:42 +0000

Awesome pics! Thanks for the shout-out. Ha ha ha.

By: Sonnie

Sonnie — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 01:40:05 +0000

SLC, you know how I love Quinoa! ha ha. Alex, thanks for the nice words, your presence would have been welcomed out there, and I’m sure your “tougher every season” girlfriend would be a fine candidate for a line like this. I would say (without trying to generalize) the problem would not be her finger size, it would be the ability to lock off between scars without much help from the feet. It’s not like dead-pointing to a flat crimper, or a pocket, where once you latch the lip gravity sets in and it’s all good, each lock needs to be carefully fiddled with, so strong lats are recommended. It’s steeper than it looks. Just my two cents. I’m sure she’ll do just fine, and honestly, there’s only one way to find out, gas up the car, take a day off work, crank some Black Sabbath and get out there on the rocks. It would be interesting for the rest of us to see as well. I’m curious.

Speaking of strong girls, I’m sure Beth could put this thing down quickly as well, but again, it’s more powerful and shouldery than one may think, I would say it’s more powerful than it is thin. Beth climbed a thin technical crack called The Optimist about 5 years ago in Smith Rock. Clipping the bolts it’s rated 5.14b. About 6 weeks later I put in some days and fired off the second ascent. Although it was beautiful and very hard, in the end I didn’t think it was as hard as most of the 5.14b’s I’ve done, but it’s VERY technical, and very thin. Technical climbs can sometimes be worked out, powerful climbs (without training) will always feel powerful.

By: joel

joel — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:46:44 +0000

@alex
i keep wondering to myself how beth roddedn would do on these routes. curious that more women aren’t hopping on these things.

By: SLC

SLC — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:21:06 +0000

next time it will be Quinoa salad….

By: Marc S.

Marc S. — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 16:53:45 +0000

Dood- you rock. This is an inspiring piece and the pictures are amazing. I appreciate photo’s that makes my palms sweat. Also- please keep writing, i enjoy your articles and perspective very much.