If yesterday wasn’t THE MOST beautiful day in Squamish history, I don’t know what was. Today is looking to be about the same and tomorrow too. I’ll admit, I have shit to do, essays to write, photo’s to tweak, taxes to file, bills to pay, video’s to edit but I just can’t do it. Not with skies as blue as these. There’s just no way, screw it, I’m calling in sick.
Yesterday I stuffed two packs full of gear, ropes, racks, wire brushes and a hand saw and set off for the Second Summit. There’s a line up there I’ve been eye balling for three years, I could never find a partner who wanted to check it out with me, seems like most of my friends are busy pumping out the next generation of granite masters. So off I went, Hans Solo Style, with knees buckling under the weight of my 80 meter 11mm static line and all my crap piled on top of it.
Standing on the edge, I took in the view for 2 whole minutes, then I built an anchor, rapped over the side and spent the better part of five hours moving up and down the rope trying to find a weakness out of this wall. The exposure is about as intense as Squamish rock can get, it’s 1500 feet straight down. A drop zone for base-jumpers I believe. I felt a bit like Tommy Caldwell in Yosemite, but a weaker, skinnier, less committed and more terrified version:) The crux is that the wall is massive and it traverses significantly, like 150 feet, so in order to make certain that features connected, I had to keep jugging back to the top, moving the rope, rebuilding the anchor and rapping back in again, repeat, repeat, repeat.
I think I found a line. 80 percent of it’s going to be difficult and fun, the other 20 percent however is going to be desperate if it goes at all and sharp as all hell. Razor burn sharp, with no footholds. Just squeezing the life out of some broken glass like crystal. That’s if I can even reach between the little fuckers. We’ll see, I would be very excited to know that it’s got real potential, that it’s possible, but right now, it’s hard to say, I think, I hope, is the best I can offer to you and myself.
Ain’t she beautiful? Three potential pitches of blistering bliss above. The sunshine was definitely an injection of motivation for this search, but so has been the BDEL journal.
As we all know, Tommy Caldwell is the “King of the Captain”. I think TC and Alex Honnold and Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra are the most exciting rock climbers in the world right now. I know there are more, this is just my personal opinion as of today. I recently read Tommy’s mini essay about his attempts on Mescalito at the Black Diamond website. I’ve been friends with Tommy for a long time, but I’ve been a fan of Tommy for even longer, and I’ve read many of his articles. This one is short, but it’s as powerful as any I can remember. REALLY good job Tommy, I loved it. Keep up the good work on that rig. We wish you success for all your hard efforts.
PLEASE CHECK IT OUT FOR YOURSELF, NOW. and have a great day….