I just threw this together on the weekend to show my mom what I did in Scotland way back when. Otherwise I don’t think this footage would ever see the light of day.
This is a clip of a climb I did in Scotland called Direquiem. May of 2008. This was shot during a warm, sunny spell that lasted the better part of our month long visit. It’s pretty funny to me, because I did this on (what I thought was) my last day at Dumbarton Rock, only because it was too hot to climb Rhapsody 5.14b/c.
This was a ‘one take’ shot, of the first free ascent, and although in my opinion it’s the finest bit of climbing on the headwall, it goes pretty much un-noticed due to it’s big brother to the left.
Direquiem was a stepping stone for me, and Cory and I extended our tickets for another week so I could finish what I started – the second free ascent of Rhapsody, and the first to place all gear on lead.
I’ll never forget the level of DRUNK we got while cruising the stone streets of Edinburgh after the redpoint. I have to thank Dave Brown and Paul Diffley for helping me achieve my dream climbs. Without their dedication, friendship and selflessness, we’d have nothing to show for our efforts. So thanks for everything, and thanks for the use of this footage. And thanks to Cory Richards for flying over to Scotland with me and sticking it out climbing some fun rocks, and thanks for the belay by my hero Steve McClure, he’s the ultimate climber, funny, relaxed, non competitive and stronger than wrought iron.
The highlight of this video (besides the music by the Recontours) and (the mullet hair cut) is the police sirens in the background while I’m cursing my way through the crux. ha. Dumbarton Police are hard working folk, never a dull moment to be had. Classic. Hope you enjoy it.