Archive for January, 2010

VIMFF 2 and a respectable apology.

Sunday, January 31st, 2010

Hey, Thanks for dropping by the ramblings of Trotter.

I  just wanted to give a last minute thanks to the hard working crew at the 2010 Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival – VIMFF. Friday night was one to remember (fortunately everything AFTER 1:am I sort of forget).  The sold out show had well over 700 people in the auditorium.  Besides my brief speaking at Banff, that was the largest audience I’ve stood before.  It was intimidating, I don’t exactly enjoy being on the spot like that, I’m not naturally comfortable on stage and would much rather be behind the scenes, BUT with the help of some cold beers, a super, super supportive (and responsive) crowd and the back up of Sean McColl and Will Stanhope I was more than happy to share some of my climbing stories with the viewers.  I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did.  The highlight for me (besides laughing my ass off all night) being Timothy Emmett’s film on his Welsh 8c project.  Way too much fun.  Can’t wait to go there one day and have a shot at it.  looks nails.

On a side note, I want to share a public apology released a few days ago on the Patagonia Blog.  Patagonia is a rare company indeed, and time and time and time again when I see how they lead by example, it makes me proud to be working for them, associated with them and I will continue to be a long time user of their products and follower of their stories for as long as they create them.  No matter what.

Wrong Turn

PCT_badge The photographs that appear in our catalogs have long been a source of inspiration. Very rarely, however, they can give the wrong impression. The Patagonia Heart of Winter 2010 catalog contained a photograph (p. 38) of illegal mountain bike use on the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.

The Pacific Crest Trail is open to foot and horse travel and closed to all motorized and mechanized (bike) use for its entire length. Patagonia regrets this oversight and strongly supports the environmental stewardship for which the rule exists, and the “Rules of the Trail” developed by the International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) to promote responsible and courteous conduct on shared-use trails.

Many of us in the company enjoy mountain biking. We understand the contentiousness surrounding access issues, but we also respect the rules of Wilderness and the rights of hikers on the PCT. Please ride on open trails only, respect trail and road closures, and ask a land manager for clarification if you are uncertain about the status of a trail.

There’s plenty of space out there for all of us. Enjoy.

Comments

SF

Kudos for admitting the mistake. Many companies wouldn’t.

stu

if i remember correctly, the caption on that photo said something about climbing 6,000 vertical feet to get to that point. that’s pretty much BS… unless that dude starting riding his back from the seattle waterfront.

the dirtbag

Agreed. It could have been really easy to keep that quiet.  On a personal note — When I saw that photo I swore I knew the trail and would have wagered money that it was the classic Ranger creek/palisades trail — a bike friendly trail. I guess not.

Ashlee

Just wanted to say that, as a marketing professional myself, I find it really really awesome that a company will own up when it is appropriate, and take steps to correct mistakes in an honest way — after all we are only human. Handled well. I am already a loyal fan, but this solidifies it even more!

Tim

This isnt really a big deal. Formally its a bad deal to be on the trail on a bike, but lets face it, from a damage perspective a horse will do more damage to the environment. In the UK trails are defined as ‘walkers only’ or ‘bike and horse’.  Patagonia are cool to put their hands up, but i think its being blown out of perspective a bit.

Jim

The Wilderness Act’s exclusion of bikes is unfortunate. As a mountain biker living in an area with rather limited riding opportunities and a fair amount of designated wilderness, it’s been hard for me to support new wilderness when it threatens to close some of the few trails we can ride. As for allowing horses in wilderness areas and excluding bikes, well, that makes no sense whatsoever. Horses are far harder on trails, creeks and camping areas than bikers.

Stefan

As a mountain biker, I’m glad Wilderness areas are closed to bikes, which includes much of my backyard area. That’s where I go trail running instead. And it’s great not to have to dodge cyclists yelling “Training! Clear please!” all the time. True, horses do somewhat more damage, but you’ll never keep “a man and his horse” outta Murikan Wilderness. Too much symbolism and cowboy myth…for the moment anyway.   But the fault here isn’t Patagonia (who’s doing the apologizing), it’s the photog and his model. Unfortuately, there’s a lot of deception going on in the frantic shooter world.

Forrest

It’s very old-fashioned (in an admirable way) of Patagonia to do the right thing, without focus groups, marketing and PR companies, and all the like. The only unfortunate thing to this whole story is that the rest of the business world doesn’t share the same commitment to ethics.

| Posted in Climbing | 3 Comments »

VIMFF

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

Hey all,

DO NOT forget to buy your tickets to the red carpet, and very prestigious closing ceremony of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival. Tonight the 28th, they got American Cedar Wright, (amongst other bad asses) he’s hilarious, he’s from Boulder (isn’t everybody) and he’ll be ripping it up on stage.  Tomorrow the 29th, is Canadian boy wonders Will Stanhope and Sean McColl, both of whom are angelic products of the Edge Junior Team in North Vancouver.  Sean is a World Cup competitor and has performed better than any Canadian ever on the competition circuit across Europe, while Will comes from a different angle all together, he gets his kicks from climbing big walls and big peaks from BC to Argentina. and they might even let me say a few words to – if I’m lucky.  Join in the fun, the beer is always cold, Will is always drunk and the girls are forever young.  For a taste of Cedar’s laid back and super chill attitude, check out this clip of him being filmed high above some testicle shrinking void.  I haven’t done any high-lining myself yet, it looks CRAZy though, and they say your mind must be like steel trap.  Or check out this clip of Will Stanhope  from Alias Cinemas doing some crazy bouldering and the classic Flight of the Challenger here in Squamish.   Iz gonna be a sicky film I reckon.   Anyway, see you tomorrow night.

Will Stanhope from Alex Lavigne – ALIAS CINEMA on Vimeo.

| Posted in Climbing | 3 Comments »

the hammock hangout

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

Ah Burning Man, the hot desert festival that everyone wants to go to (but most people just say they do so they’ll sound cool, but really who cares about the latest in synthetic drug technology?  And we’ve all seen lots of naked people before, so there’s little need to go all the way down to the dry dusty inferno,  just to have a fire dance and wear goggles in the night, I can do that in my backyard any day of the week, there’s heaps of better things to do with time and money right?  Like going to Hueco for example)  but nonetheless hoards of leather-headed hippies head south, or north, and release their death grip on what they think is reality and party likes it’s 1969.  Sounds like fun.  Honestly.

Cage dancing.  I’ve done a little – remember Dave?  That time we got all fucked up at Mont Tremblant in Quebec and there were those cute girls who wanted us to cage dance with them?  Or at least that’s how I remember it.  Well, cage dancing is a big part of the festivities it Burning Man, that part sounds like fun too, but what doesn’t sound like fun is the safety harness they’ll make you wear. Read this caption from their website, thehammockhangout.com and then take a close look at the last photograph.  KILLER funny.  I stumbled upon this site tonight while trying to find a picture for my upcoming slide show entitled, ” The Ultimate Extreme Vertical Epic Adventure of All Time Carnival”.  It’s going to be radical in every direction.  But nevermind that, check this out and have a good night…

“The cage will be 42 feet off the ground on top of the main center pole. To get there you will need to climb a rope ladder through the center opening of the parachutes.  It will be very ‘hairy’ to climb to the top so we will strictly limit access. Since safety comes third in the list of hundreds of things that are important at Burning Man–just after costumes, of coarse–there was some extra safety equipment that required. The first being 3/8″ steel airplane cables to replace the rope guide wires.  We will also be top-roping everyone who climbs up the rope ladder just in case. Once the climber reaches the crow’s nest he/she can clip in to a safety strap attached to the cage. That is what the second carabiner is for in the photo.”

The tent of a thousand hammocks.  The sensor of four dirty specks.

This will be your Industrial Rigor for the evening.  Don’t worry, he’s a professional.  Just look at all that rope, but whatever you do, don’t look at his ginch.

Well at least they got airplane cables and a 3/8’s – bolt/nut combination.  That should hold reeel good.

Hey wait a minute, is this set up ACMG approved?   Is that spectra I see?   Sweeet.

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BDEL

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

So I got BIG news, and BIGGER news, (which may not be either for some of you “internet enthusiasts”:)

I’ll start with the big news first, now that it’s “official” and everything, I’d like to announce with great pleasure that I’ll be climbing for Black Diamond Equipment from here on out.  In France when these sorts of changes happen, they get covered by ‘International Press Releases’, and Joe Schmoe Francois would be sitting down tomorrow morning with his fresh baguette and reading about it in the French Newspaper (that is, if it hasn’t gone bankrupt yet).  But here in the Great White North, of Canadia, we don’t have paper, or press, so we just crack open a cold beer, update our blogs, throw another log on the fire and call it a day.!!

As many of you know, previously I have been working with Petzl USA, since 2004, who will forever remain very close friends of mine, and who distribute some of the finest climbing gear on the market no doubt.  But over the years my style and interest and climbing objectives have shifted, and I find myself relating more and more to BD,  as a company in itself, and for all the gear they work so hard to make perfect.  I’ve been using black diamond cams for well over 10 years, most notably the bigger sizes (because in 2005 and 2006 I got a set of small Aliens for free), but I’ve been known to borrow some .75’s here and there for some good ‘ol Indian Creek specials as well. I’m sorry, but there’s just no denying the smooth action and fierce holding power of the camalot.

I look very forward to the opportunity of using Black Diamond gear exclusively, and to try my hardest in breaking it if I can.  Which means bigger falls, smaller gear, higher expectations.  It’s going to be loads of fun.  Thanks to everyone at BD for making me feel at home.

So the BIGGER news is that the highly respected, highly talented and highly entertaining superstar Adam Ondra, will also be joining the Black Diamond Global Team.  This is exciting, hopefully with such great support and a greater network of climbers we will start to see what this wonder kid is actually capable of.  Imagine if he tried something for more than 3 or 4 days?  Imagine that.  Remember how quickly and easily he did Action Direct, not to mention all the other standard setting F.A’s and repeats.  5.15d?  Now what the hell would THAT look like even?  I’m not sure I want to know, but I like to imagine that it’s possible.

Now lets go climbing.  For more news on Black Diamond, check out their Journal.  It’s SICKY dog.

| Posted in Climbing | 10 Comments »

What’s New!

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Okay, so what’s new these days?  Not much and a lot.  I’m happy to report that the rain has eased off considerably since last week, but we still get enough wet spells here in Squamish that it’s impossible to rock climb.  YET.  Maybe this Sunday.

But it’s okay with me either way because I’ve had a bit of pain in my lower back for a while now, (which is hilarious because if you read my rant before christmas you’ll probably think I’m an over sensitive tart, which I am,  but the truth is, if it was all good all the time I wouldn’t have anything to say, so even though it’s nothing serious, I’m sharing my experience anyway) and after seeing some physio’s I have a really good grasp of what I need to do in order to get back onto the horse (so to speak).  It’s not unbearable by any means, (I did go to the gym last night, and felt strong, but don’t tell my doctor) but basically she says it’s getting tighter and tighter, and without the help of some professionals, I could be all bent out of shape permanently by the time I’m 45.  What they are basically telling me is that since I’ve lived such an “active” lifestyle for so long (some call it having a youth, I call it doing stupid shit since I was 11) regardless, I’ve had so many mini trauma’s that my lower back muscles have contracted too tightly in order to protect it all.  The real problem is that I’ve never really let the injuries heal and therefore my muscles have never really let go, or settled.  This sort of chronic tension is creating a ripple throughout my nervous system which creates the sensation of pain, even if my muscles aren’t worked as much I think they should be.  Does that make sense?  I’m getting some body work done at the moment, IMS is amazing, and deep tissue massage as well.  One day at week at the chiro and I’ll be jumping off 20 foot highballs again in no time.  Everyone told me 30 was when the injuries start catching up, they were bang on.  But it’s completely reversible, and it’s nothing serious, I just need to put in the time and energy.  This whole world is about balance I’m learning, and if we don’t take the time to balance out the choices we make, we’re likely going to pay for them sometime down the road.  If you’re really young now, please trust me.  That means your body, your diet, your bank account, your relationships, everything, the whole lot.  If you don’t take your vitamins everyday, or stretch everyday, or set aside a small savings budget everyday, or tell your partner how much they mean to you, you’ll end up broke, broken, and lonely. ha ha ha.  Okay, it probably won’t be that bad – but you know what I mean.  Spread the love.

Also, I’m sad to report I won’t be going to Patagonia like I had originally planned.  Which is more than okay, because it was pretty tight financially for both my partner Jesse and I.  We both feel a bit better for not going.  Besides, (and not to rub it in) but those guys down there are having a terrible season so far, lots and lots of snow, lots of bouldering and very little alpine climbing.  So we’re not missing much I guess. So far.

On the up side, and on the home front, The Grand Wall Climbing Co-Op changed all it’s holds around, we spent all day Sunday cleaning holds and resetting the walls, so they are fresh and good to go. So stoked.  I’ve been climbing with Tim Emmett from England a bit lately and we’re in the process of planning a mini trip down to Chihuahua, Mexico.  We’d like to climb the 2800 ft El Gigante if we could.  But Feb is the land of short days and long nights so there’s no guarantee.  Tim wants to base jump from the summit if we make it.  That would be SOOOOO sick.  I really hope everything falls into place on this one.  Okay, that’s it for now.  PEACE.!!  Enjoy the clip from Mehico.


El Gigante two way basejump
Uploaded by vintersorg. – More professional, college and classic sports videos.

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Is this for real?

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

| Posted in Climbing | 6 Comments »

SQUAMISH WEATHER

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

The news about Haiti still devastates me,  all of us I’m sure.  But it seems (at least) as though action is being taken and I find some peace in knowing that.  For every crushing tale there is always a positive one to follow it.  The world is a cruel place no doubt, the weather, the ocean, the mountains, they have no mercy,  no control.  It’s both tragic and beautiful that we must live in a world without rules or warning, scientists can do everything they can, but still accidents will happen, humans will suffer, that’s the way it’s always been, and it always will be.  It doesn’t make it easier though.  The best we can do is just that, send love, send hope, send money and send people.  But also, we must be thankful for what we have, be grateful, to yourself and towards others,  because we are not special people, we are merely lucky to be alive right now, that’s it.  Lucky to have not just anything, but everything.

So onto other thoughts, perhaps an uplifting climbing note is in order, (and speaking of unpredictable weather), I want to tell you how SHIT it’s been here this week in Squamish.  Holy Crap-o-la.  We got some serious rain fall.  There was even a flood warning in the forecast, which thankfully passed.  Now, like any mountain town, there is sun on the horizon, this evening was absolutely BEAUTIFUL and tomorrow I’m willing to bet is a CLIMBING DAY.  And the real truth of it is, in two weeks time, this Monsoon Season will be over and it’ll be February again, the WORLDS BEST BOULDERING is about to begin.

So, here’s a tip, if you live in Vancouver, Seattle, Whistler, OR, you’re just passing through on vacation or business, be sure to check the weather forecast and bring your shoes up with you when you come, there’s always some locals in the forest.  If you’re not sure which web-site to check, try WWW.SQUAMISHWEATHER.COM .  They have a LINKS page with all the different reputable websites on the net.  With a few clicks of the mouse, you can paint a VERY accurate picture of how the day will turn out.  Also, there’s a  WEB CAM on the way.  This means we can all see ‘up to the minute’ pictures of the Chief and down the Howe Sound.  This is going to be AWESOME.  Even if you live in Squamish, a dark basement suite in the corner of Valleycliff, you can just click on the link, or the RSS FEED and it’ll notify you with updates and pretty pictures of the big rock in all its glory.

Until next time – Happy Climbing to all of you!   And my warmest wishes and deepest sympathy’s to the people of Haiti, I think it’s time for another trip to the bank.

Sonnie.

| Posted in Climbing | 3 Comments »

HAITI!

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

GO – DONATE MONEY RIGHT NOW. HAITI NEEDS OUR HELP.  When you drink you’re non-fat-mocha latte today and get in your mechanical wheelchair that drives you to work, think about what your $5.oo in coffee beans could do for them, or your $10 in gasoline.  Think about what $25 dollars can do, or $50, or a $100 – especially when you multiply that by the hundreds of Millions of people that live in comfort everyday around the World.   I just got back from the bank, it took me 10 minutes to walk down the street, transfer funds from my account, and collect my tax receipt.  Now I’m back home, sitting on my couch thinking about what else I can do.  If you have any suggestions, PLEASE let me know.  But if you haven’t already done it, GO DO IT NOW.  There are more survivors buried in the rubble, they need IMMEDIATE action.  The longer we wait, the less helpful we are.  This is as urgent as urgent gets.

I’m sorry for the post today, but I just can’t seem to think about climbing right now.

| Posted in Climbing | 8 Comments »

Not MTV

Friday, January 8th, 2010

Hey all.  I just wanted to share this slow motion supposed to feel good type slide show I can’t believe I put together, like the caption says, it’s just a couple of guys going climbing, then drinking beers, nuthin special, but we had some pics, and some video, so we may as well throw them together to show our mums and dads how much fun scary 5.11 sandstone can be when we’re not at home watching MTV.  ha ha.  Have a totally awesome weekend everyone.  Hope you’re out there just killing it.  It’s pouring rain here in Squamish today and I’m just deadhanging on the v-board.  It’s boring sometimes sure, but then again, so is falling off the project for 3 years in a row.  he he.  Gotta suck it up.  Enjoy the clip.

COYOTE CALLING! from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.

| Posted in Climbing | 17 Comments »

STINGRAY 5.13d? J-Tree?

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010

Greetings,  Does anyone know where to find this classic seam?

I remember reading about it and seeing pictures in the old rags ages ago, I also remember thinking it looked like such a beautiful crack, – Here’s what I know – It was established by Japan’s wafer thin Hidetaka Suzuki sometime in the early to mid 1990’s, it’s somewhere in Joshua Tree and it’s really really thin, which equates to extremely painful (usually).  Also, Hidetaka was one of the original stars to wear two separate shoes for different purposes, he had an edging shoe, and a jamming shoe.  I think the Boreal Ninja was one of them, if my memory serves me correctly.

I’m thinking about doing a trip to Joshua Tree sometime this winter and I would love to hike out to where it is and take a peak.  I wonder how many ascents it’s had?  I wonder if it climbs as good as it looks?  Like Equinox?  I wonder if I wonder too much?

Thanks in advance for any tips or beta.  Hope it’s a good one.

Sonnie.

P.S.   Here’s the picture(s) of the day.  Saw this when I was in driving through Moab and thought it was worth spreading the word.  I think a climber should own this car.  Fo sho.

sonnie trotter car 3

sonnie trottter 2 picture

sonnie trotter photo

| Posted in Climbing | 6 Comments »