Comments on: Bummed. wtf.

By: chris

chris — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 16:17:47 +0000

I’ve had the same kind of issue with pain right behind my elbow when I was training or climbing really hard with little breaks in between. Then I found out that some of it was to much pull motion and not enough push to balance it out. Balance is everything. My pull muscles got stronger but my push muscles weren’t getting used enough, so they got overwhelmed. I took a week off of doing nothing climbing wise, which if you haven’t noticed, is really really hard. But then, I started doing a little specific weight training to my tricep for another week. Dips work the best, push ups not so much. But Now I’ll do 50 dips twice a week, and haven’t had a problem yet.

By: tim

tim — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 03:17:52 +0000

a hot/cold soak speeds recovery of soft tissue a lot. Boil a brew of ginger root and comfrey root or leaves for ten mins., cool till you can stand it and alternate with ice water. The hot brew is good for at least ten soaks. Painful, but it really works. Always end with the ice soak. If you can manage twice a day, recovery will come quickly. Just be careful not to push it too soon after things feel better. good luck

By: Stray Cat

Stray Cat — Mon, 21 Dec 2009 22:33:28 +0000

Stoked for Solstice!

By: Dino

Dino — Mon, 21 Dec 2009 16:44:48 +0000

Sod it, at least you got Prosthetics done first. Looks like an amazing route, one of the best lines I’ve seen.

By: Pete

Pete — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 22:23:15 +0000

Dude, I feel bad for you that you’re dealing with this. But I have to admit, it makes me feel good to know that someone with so much more climbing experience and ability also makes those kinds of mistakes. Hope you recover from it soon and learn from the experience better than I seem to.

By: Neel

Neel — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:29:06 +0000

Not to bum you out more, but Blackberry’s stolen your “Do what you love, love what you do” slogan for their latest ad campaign. I’m thinking you should collect royalties, i hear that money solves all problems.

By: Leslie

Leslie — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 01:36:13 +0000

Hey you are talking to the queen of injuries dude. I feel u. Just stumbled across your blog reading the latest deadpoint mag issue. Great stories and photos. It was nice to finally meet you in the Red, good to put a “face” to the name, not that I didn’t already know what u looked like ;o) Hopefully we will cross paths somewhere else someday and pull down on some bad ass rock climbs together. Yeeeeeah! Take care bud and keep on insiring!

By: Clint

Clint — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 00:51:31 +0000

Sonnie I feel where you are at! I trained all Summer here since i was busy working my ass off at our lodge and couldnt get out. Spent the summer dreaming of the boulders in jtree . We had 2 months planned there and Carlsbad for Yoga. First day there, third problem, slipped off the top out and fractured my heal bone. DONE. Should have had the pad in a better spot. Thought more carefully about the topout etc etc. I honestly thought i had it though and in a spit second I was on the ground. Was pretty bummed out for a day or two then just decided to accept where i was at and started to work from there. Been reading a ton of books I never had time for, been hangboard training and doing a modified yoga series. Can put a little bit of weight on the toes now so the one leg kinda works like a kick stand. I was so happy when i first did that! The things you take for granted. So yeah i guess life is like that. 3 steps forward, 2 steps back. You just cant give up. Gotta keep going. No matter what happens to you. Just keep going. Start from where you are and work from there.

By: Matt

Matt — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 13:50:18 +0000

Bummer. Though I am Impressed that I am not the only recovering injury case in the world (apparently the rest of them read your blog too!). Encouraging stuff from you and everyone else on here – we all have those times. The high of feeling strong, fit and invincible is a tough one to come down from, but Newton’s laws of motion seem to be just that, damn laws. I say bugger thinking about the “growth” that is supposed to come from the experience, embrace the misery, have a moan, listen to some blues or metal or whatever, eat some Ben and Jerry’s and let the growth sort itself out. Trust me, it is very cathartic.

By: Dave C

Dave C — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 01:27:46 +0000

“meat corset with spikes” amazing post. Take that shit easy son, pushing it to the next level is tricky. Taking baby steps in your training will yield progression. It shows though even someone at your skill level and understanding is still learning. I find that inspiring because there is that much more for me to learn about myself and climbing. Keep us posted on the recovery, checking blogs and pulling on plastic is all you can pretty much do to stay psyched when Alberta is a glacier. Peace!