Sonnie Trotter

It seems obvious to me…

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

…that this Garibaldi At Squamish (GAS) ski resort project SHOULD NOT be happening.  That’s my two cents.

I’ve mentioned this before and I’m raising it again now only because it’s on my mind.  The count down is on.  We (the Squamish community) are supposed to get results this month of January 2010 from the Brohm Ridge Environmental Assessment, which obviously fails, (again) but if it passes this time, it’s only because there was more money than heart involved.  And the researchers or the council or everybody sold out to this 8 billion dollar deal  — and to me that would be the most disappointing thing of all.

Of course, I don’t have a problem with Skiing, I don’t have an issue with proper development either, I don’t have any issue’s with opening up the backcountry and creating jobs and I can’t say I’m against swinging the golf clubs around.  I do have problems with artificial fertilizers and other chemicals, I do have a problem with river and fish destruction, ESPECIALLY in such a sensitive area like Brohm Ridge and I do have a problem with losing our precious swimming holes.

They sell us with PICTURES.  They sell us with DREAMS.  They sell us with SOLID real estate profits.  But what are we really getting?  What are we REALLY buying into when we let a project of this magnitude elbow its way through the system?  We are investing in the destruction of our rivers, our oceans and our planet.  AGAIN.  Why must we live like this?  Why do they need 22,846 bed units, two 18 hole golf courses, 25 ski lifts, and 4 trillion hotels?  Has everyone gone completely insane?  How hard is it to begin with a modest project, like they did in the old days, and if it proves to be successful, and harmless, expand on it?

Here’s an article I found online from the Vancouver Sun,  please read it, and decide for yourself what you believe in…

“Proponents of the Garibaldi At Squamish project at Brohm Ridge north of town are pitching their development as a financial boon for the economy of the community and the province, offering thousands of jobs, tourism activity and an estimated $8 billion in construction activity and spinoffs.

However a new environmental study obtained by The Vancouver Sun indicates that the project would devastate the Brohm River — one of the most productive wild steelhead and salmon streams in B.C.

Steelhead are large, seagoing rainbow trout that are the most prized freshwater sport fish in the province, but they are at death’s door throughout their range in the Georgia Basin — even on streams supported by hatcheries — because of habitat destruction and poor ocean survival conditions.

Brohm River is described in the report as “unique” in its exceptional ability to support young steelhead before their migration to the ocean — five times as productive for fish as a typical B.C. south coast river.

A report commissioned by the B.C. Conservation Foundation, paid for with money from sport fishing license sales, says the Brohm’s remarkable stream chemistry is the key.

The Brohm, one of two main steelhead nurseries for the Squamish River system, enjoys a naturally high level of phosphorus because of the volcanic geology of the area. That chemical supports an ideal food chain for raising fish.

Only two other B.C. streams, the Upper Dean River and the Blackwater River, have similar chemistry and both of those rank among the top angling streams on the planet.

The Garibaldi At Squamish development is proposed for the stream’s headwaters at Brohm Ridge and includes extensive water management plans, including up to five dams, extractions of water for snowmaking, golf course irrigation and potable water supply, storm water and sewage discharge, plus resort development that includes hotels, condominiums and other homes with a combined 22,000 bed units.

The report, written by former B.C. government steelhead biologist Pat Slaney, says the project would need to bring water in from another source to augment local resources to “ensure that a water demand-fish flow crisis does not develop over time.” The report also suggests that fertilizer runoff from the golf courses, and chemicals used in snow-making, could unbalance the stream’s beneficial chemistry.

The project was first submitted to the province’s Environmental Assessment Office in 1997 and resubmitted in 2007.

The assessment is now on hiatus while the proponents develop more data on the hydrology of the area, and is not expected to resume until January 2009.

Craig Orr, executive director of Watershed Watch Salmon Society, said it is “ironic” that the proposal is being examined at a time when the government is promoting its new Living Water Smart program including conservation and protection of streams and lakes

He said the B.C. government must decide if it’s more concerned about preserving streams, or promoting development.

Jack Cooley of Squamish Streamkeepers said his group is actively working to restore previous damage to fish habitat in the Brohm.

Cooley called the development a “real-estate grab” and said the Streamkeepers oppose it.

Garibaldi At Squamish president and CEO Mike Esler described Slaney’s work as “pure speculation.”

He said the company believes its project can be a model for water conservation.

“We are going to be a very green resort, no question,” he said in an interview.

He said he “disagreed” that the project would adversely impact stream chemistry.

“We are all over this. We are going to make sure this is done right.”

ssimpson@vancouversun.com

For more interesting reading on the subject, PLEASE click here.

| Posted in Climbing | 9 Comments »

Back and Gone Again!

Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009

So, I think I’m back. The pain in my elbow has gone, but now I’m home in Ontario, living on the family farm, playing cards, cross country skiing and drinking beers, the way it should be this time of year.  Of course, I’ll sneak off at some point today and do some gentle deadhangs and some pullups, but I’ll keep it quick, there’s presents to wrap.  My optimism is good.  As far as I’m concerned it’s already the NEW YEAR.   The minute that our days start getting longer again, (WINTER SOLSTICE) is the minute that I’m in a better mood.  I’m solar powered, what can I say.  I need the sun.  So HAPPY NEW YEAR to all.  From here on out, things are looking brighter!

Btw, Thanks for all the amazing comments below.  I had no idea my tiny little vent session would trigger so many people feeling the same ups and downs of it all.  After reading them carefully, it seems that many of you are suffering from something the same or much worse than I was at the time, so I started feeling bad for complaining at all, it’s not like anything was broken, just a bit of a flair up, like hemorrhoids I guess, smirk.  I think I was just in a sour mood.  Which now seems so damn trivial, especially because it has seemed to clear up quicker than I thought it would.   Sometimes you just have to admit ‘outloud’ that you made a mistake, you learned your lesson and that you’re committed to fixing the problem (maybe Tiger Woods had something to do with it?).  I took the advice of the readers below and some of my own as well, I rested more, constantly drank water, massaged my elbows, took a little bit of Ibuprofen from time to time to help reduce inflammation, and I iced for three evenings in a row, 15 minutes on, 15 minutes off, for an hour.

So to pick up, I went to the gym on Sunday, (because the sideways rain persists) not sure what to expect, not feeling strong, but not weak either.  There was a great crew of fun people in the house, so that had a lot to do with it, but I warmed up and sent some moderate classics, then I sent some more difficult classics and worked on a few projects of mine, falling at the same high point as before the weight vest session fiasco and feeling no discomfort.  I was thrilled, however, I was still being cautious too, but I’m glad to report that the things I did to repair the damage did work indeed, and still today, no pain. Taking good care of yourself really does work, imagine that.

Here’s what I learned so that hopefully you won’t do the same.

#1.   I don’t care how strong you think you feel, do not start adding weight unless you’ve worked up to it.  I think the standard is 3-5 percent of your body weight.  Which seems about accurate for me.  On my second day in a row I was doing 15 -20 pounds, like I said below, BAD IDEA.  I’m about 165 pounds, give or take.  I should have started with 5 pounds, and done that for at least 4 weeks.  Then 10 pounds for another month, 2 – 3 days a week.  Then, maybe if I still feel good, introduce 15 lbs.  Pay attention, listen, and either continue, or back off from there.  20 Lbs is a lot, not for our muscles but for our delicate connective tissue, that much should have taken me 4- 6 months,  NOT 2 days, and  certainly NOT 2 days in a row.  It’s almost embarrassing.  Looking back to this episode nearly 3 weeks ago, I can’t seem to recall what compelled me to think I should do it?

#2.   It’s okay to relax and do nothing, because when you climb and/or train 3-5 days a week, doing nothing, is DEFINITELY still doing SOMETHING.  And not just something, but something important.  Don’t let anyone tell you you’re being lazy, don’t let the guilt set in.  If you are trying hard and you know your body well, resting is one of the best things you can do.

I think I got lucky in this case, I could have done some serious damage, but as it turns out, the pit of regression I dug for myself wasn’t as deep as I had initially thought.  Stay in the positive people, don’t get sucked into too much, too fast. It’s easy to do when things are going good.  3-5 days a week, 1-3 hours a day.  That’s my new rule.  QUALITY, NOT QUANTITY.

This is what happens when you’re bored on the farm, you recycle old MacLean’s Magazines and make your own Digital Holiday Greeting Cards.  Hope it’s a good one for everyone out there.  Especially you Chris, Beef and Lan chilling in Hampi.  I’m so jealous.  Not really. Okay, a little bit.

| Posted in Climbing | 7 Comments »

Bummed. wtf.

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Warning: bitchy Canadian about to get personal. For more inspirational blogs click here. Otherwise, keep reading.

Now, I have no reason to complain.  At all.  My life is truly wonderful, I Love where I live, I Love what I do, and I Love who I’m with. I think that’s saying something, there have been times in my life and the lives of my friends, where we’ve only had one or two of these things going for us, and even worse times when we had none.  So why the pissy mood?  Honestly, I don’t know exactly, maybe because it’s Christmas, maybe it’s because I have a whole in my sock, or maybe it’s because it’s slashing rain outside and we only get 6 hours of daylight right now, if you can call it that.  But between me and you, I think it’s because I’m climbing like shit right now.  What’s a climbing blog for then, if not to rant?  I’m tweaked, bear with me…

Just over two weeks ago, I returned home from my A.R.M (appendectomy recovery mission) feeling on top of the world.  Nov 1st – Nov 29th.  During that time I had my 30th birthday, went to Colorado and Utah and I was climbing with zest.  I had quickly ticked a number of mid 13 trad climbs, and on-sighted a good number of other 13 sport climbs.  I wasn’t in project mode, but being outside almost every day, being with friends and ticking off some super classics felt great.  Then during my last few days in Moab, I was lucky enough to snag this unbelievable climb called Prosthetics, 5.13d, Mill Creek.  I was pretty stoked.  Since doing the second ascent of this Noah Bigwood ubber classic in 2006, my dream for the last 3 years was to return and do it on gear.  Retro-Trad.  I finally made it back to the area, and sent, and it was amazing.  There was snow on the ground, sun in th sky, the rock was clean and sticky, the crimps felt like razor sharp ice,  the line was pure, the run-out was terrifying but the gear was solid.  I was beyond PSYCHED.  It was probably the coolest thing I did on a rope this year.  Here’s a Burr pic.

A fool and his power are soon parted.

So, I come home and start ’sessioning’ in the gym, I felt light, strong and mobile.  I watched some Paxti videos (who’s recently injured his shoulder) and I went into the co-op nearly everyday, building on the momentum of my last trip.  I even went out and bought a weight belt.  I was about to break through, I could feel it.  Then I woke up about 10 days ago and my elbows hurt.  IDIOT.  I took some rest, 7 days, and they didn’t go away.  I hardly ever get elbow pain but when I do, I’m not impressed, who would be?   It strips the mojo from our body’s, AND we have to do more push ups, Arrgh.

So, I go back into the gym 3 days ago and I can’t pull on anything.  I mean NUTHIN.  My shoulders are tired, my elbows hurt and I’m beginning to feel sorry for myself.  On top of it all, I went back country skiing  yesterday and now today my lower back is so tight, I feel like I’m wearing a meat corset with spikes.  My body doesn’t twist, it moves in one giant aching shield of pain.  I need more yoga.  Doesn’t everybody.   ha.  So I have this friend in his 40’s who told me it’s “probably just an old injury that’s just catching up with you, saying hello, it’s nothing you’ve done recently, just an old flare up, I get them all the time”.  Well, he may be right, but that doesn’t change the fact that I’m in a bad mood, and this isn’t some story I’m laughing about 3 years down the road, this is right now, I’m laughing at the ridiculous state I’m in, RIGHT NOW.  I’ve got ice on my elbows, ice on my back, Advil in my pocket and I’m like – What the fuck?  Where did this disaster come from?  My girlfriend comes home from work and starts giggling because she’s got this crusty old man on the couch up to his tits with ice packs.  It’s classic.  I’m only 30, can’t I withstand a month of constant climbing?  Sure I can.  But perhaps I got carried away.  Here’s how…

Truth be told, the aches in my elbows started the morning after I strapped on the weight vest.  I campused up the wall and back down again, 5 times, on top of some other stuff.  Super bad idea, I know, but I couldn’t help it, I felt invincible.  I wasn’t.  I never will be.  Stop fooling yourself fool.  But I did it anyway and I paid the price.  The shock load one puts on their elbows coming down (without footholds and an extra 20 pounds on your body) is extremely severe.  It’s never, ever a good idea to do this, ESPECIALLY if you haven’t built up to it for several months at least.   Going up is okay, the body can handle that, if you have enough power to make the move, that’s your gauge, if you don’t, then you won’t make it and you’ll fall off, simple, no harm done.  BUT, when coming down, you shock load the system, you shock load the elbows and shoulders and fingers, like dropping a weight onto a static cable, multiplying forces exponentially and this is rarely recommended.   You may get away with it for a while, and you might even get a bit stronger, but it’s such a fine line between progress and regress.  Please be careful when doing dynamic movements with extra weight.  I learned this lesson a long time ago, but my confidence got in the way of reality again, and just like President Bush once said, “Fool me once, and it’s your fault.  Fool me twice and….uh……uh………”

To wrap things up, I have no idea how long this will take to pass, this funk, but I tell you it wasn’t worth it.  When I get it back, hopefully after the holidays, I’ll be smarter than this.  I actually feel better already, just writing about it, like I’ve reinforced something I already knew.  I know the rules, they’re common sense, I just thought I could bend them a little, but there’s no hurry, we now have 50 year old climbers sending harder than they ever have before.  If you stay healthy, and avoid stupid mistakes, then we can all be climbing 5.15 in ten years.  There’s no rush.  Take your time, enjoy the ride.  I have to go change my ice pack, this one’s getting warm.  Or maybe I should take the plunge, like this guy…

| Posted in Climbing | 22 Comments »

Loss.

Friday, December 11th, 2009

Is it just me, or does it seem sometimes that the world takes away the very best people?   Recently, I was invited by Guy Lacelle to go ice climbing in the Bow Valley this December, with him and some friends, I would have left in about 5 days.  As of this morning I had not yet decided if I was going to go, (my last ice climbing mission didn’t turn out to be much fun) but I truly loved hanging out with Guy, his presence was always so youthful and refreshing.  He was like a Zen master in my eyes, he always had an optimistic enthusiasm, and a beginners mind.

This year has been especially difficult for climbing deaths and losses.  I can’t begin to imagine the strength it must take to lose someone so close to you, so full of life.  I’ve lost a handful of family members during my time on earth, and a handful of friends.  It’s incredibly sad.  And now Guy is gone too.  Guy was probably the kindest man I ever met, humble, honest, soft spoken, real, genuine, funny and a friend to everyone.  He was a legend of an ice climber yes, but even more so as a human being.  He will be greatly missed.  I sincerely wish his family and loved ones my warmest condolences and deepest sympathy.  There are no words to describe a loss like this.  May we all enjoy our lives as much as we can, while we can, and give to others what we can and leave this world a little better than when we found it.  Guy did.  I hope to.

Arc’teryx Photo.

| Posted in Climbing | 3 Comments »

December Loggering!

Thursday, December 10th, 2009

December, the month of Christmas, the month of 50 foot swells in Hawaii, the month of multiple snow days in Ontario, but it’s also the month of cold crisp and sending temps in Squamish, since coming home from Utah I’ve only been out 3 or 4 times, but it’s been good.  I have friends who’ve been out 6, 7 and 8 days in a row.  I went out with two of them on Tues and took some pictures, it blows my mind how dry the forest is right now.  There is not a drop of moisture in the air.  But, the rock feels like ice, which is great if you’re only touching it for 10 seconds at a time.  Bouldering.  What a beautiful art.  And if the skin starts to hurt too much, you can always go Loggering, ha ha.  The absurd Art of climbing logs, mantling them, grading them, naming them and spraying about them afterwards at the bar with your friends.  I hear chicks dig it.  Tell them your into Loggering, it’s sort of the new-ish thing in the North West, a place where we have an abundance of fallen tree’s, or so it seems.  Naturally, it’s not as popular in Indian Creek or Red Rocks, but it might catch on in other places over time.  It’s sort of like those crazy mountain bikers who make ladders and ramps out of drift wood,  the North Shore Style of climbing.  Loggering.  Totally absurd.  Is it worth it?  You decide.

Here is Mandoline, climbing a beautiful prow on the Titanic Boulder, how do you say…velcro.

Blue, eyeballing the line.  Brushing the starting holds.

Committing.

Rocking over.

Smiling.

Now, here is a coincidental video I was sent of a man named Cam, by himself, with his video machine, and a dangerous looking logger problem.  I’m not saying this is a good idea, or a bad one, but I think you can decide for yourself.

| Posted in Climbing | 3 Comments »

THa Co-Op

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

Okay, so I’m home now, I had a truly amazing road trip and I’ve been back just over a week.  It’s been sunny, crispy and cold.  Almost too cold for rock climbing, but not to worry, because it’s almost complete, the new wall (which you can’t see in this photo) but it’s 55 degree’s and it’s going to be SICK.  It’s nice to have an indoor facility that isn’t commercial, that uses mostly wood holds and unites the climbing community.  Squamish just got a whole lot better.  Hope it’s rad in your worlds.  Thanks for stopping by, I’ll be updating more soon, I just have to compose myself, compile some material, unpack, rack up, and then it’s go time.  Oh, but in the meantime, the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival asked me if I would present this year, which I agreed to do.  So if you’re interested in coming out, click on the link for more information.     www.vimff.org

| Posted in Climbing | 2 Comments »