Rain, rain, go away!

Tomorrow it’s supposed to rain, cats and dogs and stuff.  1000 percent chance.  In fact, I think it’s supposed to rain all over North America, it may only be safe in California, at least from what I saw on the intranet thingy.  But that’s cool, most people around here (Red River Gorge) have been climbing for two or three days consecutively, and are getting pretty tired.  I did two days in a row now and got worked on 5.12.  W-O-R-K-E-D.  My skin hurts too, I’m like a new born baby.  That’s the way it goes here, if you don’t have the juice you get served pretty hard.  But after a few weeks, you’ll be taking a stroll up most of the classics.  It’s a great feeling, so I hear.  Anyway, I leave on Friday, back to Squamish, I tried to change my ticket but it’ll cost nearly $500 bucks and definitely not worth it.  Who knows, maybe Thurs won’t be as bad as people say, only time will tell.   Oh well,  check out these sweet little sequence shots from Mike Doyle of Audrey Sniezek on Kaleidescope 5.13c.  A little eye candy, since I haven’t been taking any pictures at all.  Bon voyage.

  • JPWilliams

    Actually, it’s raining dogs and cats in California too. Not safe anywhere this week. JW

  • Steve Traversari

    Actually the weather is quite bad in CA. Especially, in Southern Cal which has been hit by wild fires and the lack of vegetation, dry landscape and huge rainfall are making land erosion a serious problem and hazard – mud slides, debris slides, power outages, evacuations etc etc etc. In the northern part I think things are not quite as bad – barring the threat of an eathquake. But as you move inland, like Yosemite, it’s quite nice. I don’t think I’ve ever read anything from you about travelling/climbing in Yosemite. Is it just because you haven’t gotten to it or just not part of what you want to do? Anyhow, if you want to get out of the rain I would highly recommend it.

  • Sonnie

    Well, just as expected we woke up to thundering rain. I guess we all need some down time once in a while and there’s no time like the present. As far as Yosemite goes, I’ve been there twice, and LOVED it very much, I did a dozen of the classic climbs and boulders, but to be honest, it’s a HUGE pain in the ass unless you have a cabin, or a local hook up. The tourists suck balls, the rangers suck bigger balls, and now they only let you stay for one week before kicking you out again which is the biggest ball sucking of all. Who wants to live like that? A constant struggle? Fight to reserve your camping spot, fight to stay in line on the Nose, fight to avoid park authorities? Squamish granite, although not nearly as big and impressive, is of better quality, (less pin scars), without the hassle. Freedom to roam. All our friends have apartments and daily bbq’s, It’s hard to leave the good living of Squamtown to go to a valley that sucks the life out of me. Albeit, there is nothing in the world like the Captain or Half Dome, or the raw beauty of the park, everywhere you look it’s gorgeous. With all that being said, I will certainly climb El Cap again, and it will definitely be sooner than later. Cheers Steve.

  • mark

    Yeah El Cap is a great idea, only got 4-5 inches of rain yesterday.(thats 10-13cm canadian) Might be one of the few climbing spots in the US right now you could be miserably wet AND might die. from the el cap report yesterday

    It has relentlessly poured all day and the winds are screaming on the face. Anyone up there tonight is in a life and death struggle and I sure hope everyone is off by now. The mist and clouds are so thick that it is impossible to see any details on the face. I did my best to look hard at the west flank and I was unable to see anyone, but that doesn’t mean there is no one up there. I hope there isn’t. Camp 4 is a swamp with streams of water flowing through tents…

  • mark

    PS I think Audrey can streamline her beta on that rig. I was able to go left hand directly to the draw and skip the crimp all together. Might be a height difference thing though.

  • Frank Waters

    Hey Sonnie, thanks for coming to Rocktoberfest and supporting the goals of the RRGCC, I was the douche that ask you to write more on your site. Peace

  • Just Me

    Is she wearing cordouroy? I love them.. bring back cords! They rock more than jeans.