Professional Rock Climber, Amateur Photographer, Videographer, Writer, Guide, Speaker, Runner, Squamish Local, Nature Worshiper, Mountain Addict, Lydia Love Slave, Aspiring Carpenter, Soccer Enthusiast, Surfer Wannabe
Thursday, October 29th, 2009
Right now in drizzly Portland (the circuit gym is WICKED), tomorrow I’m in Eugene, (read below) then on route to the center of the Universe, Boulder CO. I hope it’s not snowing too much. The mountain passes could easily shut down the ol’Yaris. Easily. I hope everyone is gettin out and having fun. See you on the flipside.
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Sunday, October 25th, 2009
The rain has come back today, this time it looks as though it might never leave. Dark and dreary. We did however have a relatively nice week in general. Climbing was good all day yesterday, and we had a couple of beauties two days before that. One of the first places to dry out after a good rain day is the Smoke Bluff area. There are a metric tonne of routes scattered about the park, and hundreds of climbs I still haven’t done, or tried to do, all within a 5 – 10 minute walk from the car. On a cold October day, the Bluff climbs are more like grit, than granite. One of these special lines is called ‘Dog Face’. Rated 5.12b in the book and put up by local legend Perry Beckham in 1989. Crickey that was a long time ago. 20 years now. Respect. The line is situated RIGHT beside the main trail – and I’m talking like 13 inches from the edge of the grass. It’s a striking feature really, a shallow corner, three rusty bolts, with three obvious crimps leading into a blank bulge of nothingness. The guidebook describes it as 5.12b if you’re 8 feet tall. As far as I know, the line is unrepeated, or so that’s the rumor I’ve heard since moving here. It’s hard to say because it was done so long ago and Perry the mullet sporting hardman ‘IS’ in fact 8 feet tall. Plus, when I got on it last Wed, I broke two holds, and spent 15 minutes scrubbing moss from the top 1/4 of the route. There’s no anchor and you need to build one with a few number 2’s.
The climbing is the kind of technical nightmare you wouldn’t recommend to a friend. Unless of course your friend is into that sort of thing. In which case, I would highly suggest it. I quickly realized I wasn’t tall enough to stick the jiggery, so I opted for the pokery, and after fudging with different sequences (and botching most of them) I unlocked the craziest moves. A high right foot and then sideways body smearing, pushing the shallow corner away from me with both hands. Never done anything like it before. On my third attempt, it was getting cold and I had lost a bunch of skin, so I opted for a TR burn, doh! I sent the climb, but barely. Ripping a hole in my finger during the process. Felt like 5.12d. Can’t wait to go back and finish it off. If anyone has any useful beta please let me know, I don’t know anyone else who’s been on it except for Andrew Boyd, and I would love to hear some stories. Any known ascents? I’m sure they’re out there.
Okay, I gotta go, it’s a good day for yoga. But I’ll leave you with a few pictures, check out these snap shots by Andrew BURR. These are images taken from my redpoint ascents of Air Sweden and Aesthetics, both 5.13. What’s amazing about working with Andrew is that you really don’t know he’s there. He’s like a gecko on the wall. One second he’s on top of you shooting straight down, the next second he’s off to the side with a different lens capturing a completely different perspective. He swings around, changes lenses, jummars up and down, and never fails to catch the action. This sort of photography is just as impressive as the climbing, you gotta be so focused, and super fit. I totally respect that. And hanging out with Burr was such a pleasure, he makes me want to take more photographs myself. A real inspiration. hope you enjoy them and thanks to him for letting me share them. Check out his site, and his blog, the boy is ACTIVE. www.andrewburr.com
A beautiful wall, a simple crack, a long way to go.
This is an interesting picture. If you climb Air Sweden you don’t get the chains, but notice how much torque I’ve got on the finger locks. I’ve never seen an image like this before, but the twisting of my wrist goes all the way to my elbow joint. Like when you wring a towel dry. It’s kinda gnarly.
Desperate tension here. No feet, no locks, you just gotta squeeze.
Wicked shot. 120 feet of the deck, Burr kicking back drinking a beer, flipping me surf symbols, while I’m up there sweatin my balls off trying to clip the chains. ha ha ha. I wish it were the other way around.
Warming up with the red toque. Good gear.
I love this shot, if the pinch in my right hand was any wider, I’m not sure how I’d ever do this move.
Knuckles up chump.
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Sunday, October 18th, 2009
So we just watched the Second and Third sequel to the first Matrix and I am completely in AWE.
I have to go and put a silver bullet in my head now.
What an enormous pile of shit.
pathetic mounds of twaddle.
Both of them.
Drivel.
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Thursday, October 15th, 2009
The good news is that the weather is clearing here in Kentucky, even after two days of monsoon like rain, the Motherload was still dry and very climbable. Spirits were high and more and more people are rolling into Miguel’s Pizza for a day, a week and even a month of climbing. November is the ULTIMATE season. It would be nice to come back and session again soon. I fell off the last hard move of a tasty 5.14a today, which was totally unexpected and great for my psyche. I just need a lttle more power, endurance and power endurace, ha ha.
The better news is that Will Stanhope and Jason Kruk are having a slide show. Check it out. If you’re within at least 500 miles of Bend Oregon next week then GO, they’ll have you laughing and crying and locking up your women. Plus, Smith Rock is one of the best climbing destinations in the world. So load up your subaru, grab yourself a latte (use a reusable cup) and hit the road for the birth spot of sport climbing. You can thank me later.
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Tuesday, October 13th, 2009
Tomorrow it’s supposed to rain, cats and dogs and stuff. 1000 percent chance. In fact, I think it’s supposed to rain all over North America, it may only be safe in California, at least from what I saw on the intranet thingy. But that’s cool, most people around here (Red River Gorge) have been climbing for two or three days consecutively, and are getting pretty tired. I did two days in a row now and got worked on 5.12. W-O-R-K-E-D. My skin hurts too, I’m like a new born baby. That’s the way it goes here, if you don’t have the juice you get served pretty hard. But after a few weeks, you’ll be taking a stroll up most of the classics. It’s a great feeling, so I hear. Anyway, I leave on Friday, back to Squamish, I tried to change my ticket but it’ll cost nearly $500 bucks and definitely not worth it. Who knows, maybe Thurs won’t be as bad as people say, only time will tell. Oh well, check out these sweet little sequence shots from Mike Doyle of Audrey Sniezek on Kaleidescope 5.13c. A little eye candy, since I haven’t been taking any pictures at all. Bon voyage.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2009
Seriously, my tent has a leak, but I seek to peak at the creek, with both cheeks, surrounded by desert freaks who wreak, and a guy named Zeek who seems meek, but eats meat, speaks of chic shoes and sings the blues, what else is new?
So here I am now, in blue grass Kentucky. I’ve never had blue grass in Kentucky before, I’ve had real good grass, blueberry bud, purple haze, snow white, mauwie wauwie, early mist, but whatever, I’m here drinking an Ale 81, or “a late one” depending on what time it is, and waiting for my Za. Miguel’s pizza is legendary, I was here last year, and the year before that too, in fact I’ve been coming here since the spring of 1996, 13 goddamn years ago. What the hell happened? Why is it that when we look back at such a “great” length of time, we feel like bums, completely unproductive bums, and then suddenly I’m trying to find an old photograph for someone and it takes me hours to dig through the images I have from over the years and suddenly I feel as though I’ve lived 6 life times. The mind is a fucked up thing. I feel guilty one moment for being such a slacker, and the next innocent of all charges.
This place is amazing, as you know, but I’ll talk about it later (next week), but for now I’ll post some pictures, because really, that’s all I got. To explain, I just spent a week in Indian Creek, Utah, south of the desert wonderland of Moab, climbing splitter cracks and laybacking as much as my denim jeans would allow me. It was my rehab back to some form of climbing shape (still recovering from my appendectomy last month). I was there during the incredible International Climbers Meet, brought to us by the American Alpine Club, and I was honored to go representing The Alpine Club of Canada. As I promised my adorable lady, I climbed only 5.11’s and 5.12’s for the first three days. However on day four I could no longer contain myself, I wanted to try the popular and rather challenging “Air Sweden” solid at 5.13 R. I was lucky enough to climbing with the POLISH bad asses, Adam and Yaghtzic(?) and they had arranged a TR for us. After two sessions on it and getting worked, we pulled the rope, racked up and Adam (27) went for the lead. He did super well, looking really solid but his foot slipped before he could get into the crux. Watching him fall on that small TCU game me some confidence. I climbed up to the crux for my third go of the day, placed the gear and rested on the tight but comfortable finger locks. The wind suddenly picked up, the sun ducked behind thick clouds – I reached left and embarked on the famous journey captured by Sender Films of Eric Decaria leading on the sharp end (which by the way is still one of my favorite video clips of ALL TIME, Eric is a samurai), I thrutched my way to the jug, legs trembling and looking at a minimum fall of 45 feet I placed a sinker cam. The rest was nice, I climbed slowly after that, surely, not to fuck up the 5.11 at the top. It was special for me because it was my last day in the creek and I’ve wanted to do that climb for three years, I wasn’t sure I could do it in a day, especially after my hiatus, but I got very lucky.
Balancing Rock. This photo would be better if there were a climber on it I think…
Micheal from Denmark, no matter how hard we tried, there was no wiping the smile off this guys face, he was in heaven at the creek. And led a pretty sick 5.11 ring locking crack. Congrats buuuuudy.
Vincent from Holland, showing off his gobi’s from Momentum.
This, unfortunately is my ankle. If you’ve ever climbed Big Guy, you’ll understand. Tape is my new best friend, as is polysporin and gauze.
Pretty epic sky country. Wouldn’t you say?
The desert never fails to remind us what a marvel it is. The buttresses look like huge sand Castles, I often feel like we should be riding around on silver horses.
Jim Donini himself, holding down the fort. This guy is my hero, he loves climbing all the way through and his enthusiasm for it is really infectious. Also, I’m pretty jealous of his radical van. Thanks Jim.
BLING BLING.
THE SUPER FUNNY AND TALENTED POLISH climbers. Did you know that if you get pulled over drunk on your bicycle in Poland, they take away your drivers liscence. No tolerance.
The next day I went to Mill Creek, about 45 minutes north of Indian Creek and I managed a second 5.13 gear route. Aesthetics. Possibly one of the most beautiful sport climbs in the world. Technical and balancy as all shit. It’s soooooo gooooood. Thanks to Noah Bigwood for establishing such a gem. I figured I had a 50/50 shot of sticking the crux on lead. But again, I got a little lucky and wobbled my way to the chains. I feel blessed that I was able to sneak away from Utah having ticked those mega classic routes. Blessed. Perhaps my projects in Squamish and beyond are not that far off.
For those who read this blog know I don’t always talk about my climbing, but I’m kinda psyched about these latest accomplishments and I tried really hard on them, I like trying hard, no matter what it is. The best part about surprising yourself on a challenging climb (especially after an injury or something) is that you can begin the fun process of building on it – using that momentum to take you to a higher place. It’s the momentum that’s important I rekon. That’s what all the best climbers in the world have going for them in my opinion (and feel free to argue if you’d like) but they seem to have the strongest fingers, the lightest bodies (in ratio) and the most amount of confidence in their ability. So cool. I think if you want to be a better climber, (and I know I do) you/me have to work on these three things, we should make training decisions based on these factors eh? Fun, finger strength, body weight ratio, and confidence. God speed.
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Thursday, October 1st, 2009
They say it’s the best crag in Utah. Salt Lake’s Momentum Climbing gym is now 3 years old and getting a wee bit outdated, but it’s still one of the best facilities I’ve seen in my lifetime, it’s right up there with the World Cup Wall in Imst, Austria, and Joe Rockheads in Toronto. It’s no wonder all these kids are climbing V14 in two years. Holy shit. I think I’m going to quit rock climbing and move to the powder state to pull on painted plywood, at least that way I’d be stronger at least. No think about it, seriously, changed alcohol laws, winter skiing, and 25 hours of plastic pulling a week. Word.
When I left Vancouver this morning it had just started raining, but not Utah, cool and crip, fall sending temps at their finest. I’m here to spend one week with the Amercian Alpine Club Climbers Meet in Indian Creek, Utah. Representing Canada, YA! And trying to slowly recover from my appendectomy which is healing much, much slower than I had hoped, probably because I litterally lack the ability to rest for more than two days, AND, I lack the ability to listen to anyones advice, even my doctors. This last trait usually plays out for the worse in my case, but I have a thick skull and I’m willing to admit my flaws. ha ha ha.
Jeremy these photo’s are for you, they have much better pics on the website, but I remember we were talking over wine the other night about this place and now I’m here, so hope you like.
Honestly, my camera lens is just not wide enough to capture half of it.
Cool slabby starts, gradual steepness.
Pumporama.
The cracks. Every size imaginable, now, you have no reason to ever go to Zion, ever. So don’t.
Two climbers lost on the big lead wall, so many grips, or as Yvon calls them, warts.
1/10th of the bouldering. No reason to go to Joes Valley either. Fuck it.
I’m pretty sure that guy on the left hand side of this picture was trying to pick up that girl in the black. Notice the way he’s leaning in closer off the edge of his seat, she’s got him right where she wants him.
Jen Olsen on the right side, warming up.
Jen, showing us good technique, on a climb that I have no interest in ever trying. But I’m pretty sure this very overhanging offwidth has never actually been free climbed, so nobody really knows the beta, it might be feet first? Am I warm?
Jen, about to embark on a first ever free solo attempt. If only she could do the first move.
The View from the base. Looking straight out at this gapping canyon. I don’t even think I’d enjoy watching someone else climb it. I’ve seen burly before, and this is in a whole ‘nother galaxy. I gotta go, some guy from Latvia just showed up and everyone is trying to finish their medicine before finding some foam floor space to crash on.
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